How the cylinders are numbered in the 2.7 V6? I have a misfire code for cylinder #4 (304) and might need to know which cylinder is #4. I've replace all six plugs and wires, no change. Thinking about the coil pack. I hate just changing things without some indication they are bad.
View 4 Replies2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
View 2 RepliesJust replaced all 6 plugs after getting p0300-p0306 codes. Still getting all codes, always starting with p0305. Was told coil was bad cause the shop only was getting p0305, but I have all misfire codes. We have over 95k on it, have owned since 2008. Its the 2.7 in it.
View 11 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
I bought a 01 passat with a bad turbo I drove it home as I was getting home the STOP low oil pressure light came on and I parked it the engine had a lifter rattle but not knocking I went to start next day and Have no fire on first two cylinders (only two I checked), where to start? I pulled coil pack/plug tube out and hooked a plug in to check fire on first 2 cylinders got no spark....
View 1 RepliesEngine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
View 12 RepliesMy 2001 V6 Ford Ranger Edge has 124, 000 miles and always ran very well, Shortly after a minimal attempt to pull a vehicle out of a ditch the vehicle began to run poorly. This may be coincidental as problem did not begin straight away. The engine refused to start at first but now appears to run on 2 or 3 cylinders. I have checked AND CONFIRMED the following:
Spark at all cylinders
Fuel filter replaced
Fuel pump checked
Fuel pressure 56 psi at schrader valve on fuel rail
Fuel inertia cut off valve checked
E_Z start sprayed in feed horn did nothing
I hope to avoid towing it to the dealer,as I recently had a very negative experience doing this with the Honda dealer..
Toyota read the codes wrong and told me that I need a new hybrid battery. That is incorrect info. Codes P0300 P0301 P0302P0303. The codes mean misfire in cylinders 1 , 2 and 3. I have had injector cleaned in the past new spark plugs. If I drive it it gets warmed up and shuts down. It will restart and run maybe 7 more miles the same. The brake light comes on and I have to restart it.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8t (AWM engine, B5 platform). When I start the car, I get misfires on all cylinders (very rough idle, sometimes it stalls when the engine is cold) and the car appears to be running lean. Once the CEL comes on, it runs fine (albeit the slight loss of power do the ECU going into limp mode to correct the problem).
So far, I've done the following myself: new O2 sensors, new SAI pump, new EGR valve, new diverter valve, new N75 valve, new vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle body, new MAF sensor, cleaned the air filter, new plugs, and new coils. When the problem persisted, I had my mechanic change the timing belt, check for vacuum leaks, change the valve cover gasket, replace the fuel pump and filter. None of this has solved the problem! This is driving me nuts.
At this point, there are only two possibilities that I can think of:
1) Catalytic converter is clogged? I pulled out the pre-cat O2 sensor, started the car, but it still misfired. This seems to mean that there's another problem (i.e., if the cat is clogged, it's in addition to something else).
2) Dirty fuel injectors? I've put two bottles of Techron through the car to no avail. From the outside, they look pretty dirty, so I'll definitely try removing them, cleaning them, and replacing the gaskets. Hopefully this solves it.
Is there something I'm missing?
2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
I am getting the dreaded emission workshop.
The codes i am getting are p0301-p0304 and p0171
Which are misfire on 4 cylinders and system to lean (bank 1).
Here is what I have done:
Got the 4 ignition coils replace, replaced the mass air flow, replaced the air filter, replace the plugs.
I just check the L wire and it doesn't have any cracks or holes
I don't know what to do next.
Bought a fixer upper 2001 v10 and it's definitely not running on all cylinders. Also the check engine light is not on and the PCM is not saying it's on (per my code reader) and it doesn't come on when I turn the key on.
Is it possible the previous owner had a programmer of some sort to disable the CEL? If the bulb were removed my scan tool would still show it on. Trying to get it to tell me which cylinders I am having trouble with.
Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7l V6. My problem is as title says have low rpm and can barely get to 30 mph. I have run an obd2 scan and popped up with p0340 camshaft position sensor malfunction. Replace the sensor changed spark plugs and wires which fixed the problem ran good for almost a year code was still there though. A few days ago I was driving and everything was fine then the next day it wasn't. Replaced crankshaft sensor and spark plugs still not running good. Could timing be off or maybe something else?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 santa fe V6 front wheel drive,,,lately the abs goes on even on dry pavement...and the brake pedal got softer...no light on dash is on...brakes and master all good ...no leaks...i was told it can be the front drive shafts and the rings at the end for the abs?? change those rings or the front axles and it will fixed.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe with a 3.5. A good while back I had my tires rotated. The rims on the front were stuck on. The tech tried beating the tires on the outside, but the rims would not break loose. The tech wound up on the inside with the big tire hammer rapping on the rim. He finally got the rims loose with the big hammer.
As I headed up the highway, less than 5 miles, the traction control system kicked in. I pressed the button and turned t off. The next time I drove the car it did t again. Long story short, ever since that day I have had to drive with the TCS off.
I jacked it up and pulled the wheels and visually checked the ABS rings. I couldn't see any cracks, but that doesn't mean there aren't any, I guess.
Could a speed sensor have gotten damaged with the tire tech's banging on my rims. I'm thinking about just changing both rings and sensors to see if that will fix the TCS problem.
My 2003 V6 3.6L has decided to not go into reverse today. My driveway is on a slope and the car is a few feet from the door so it is hard to tell if it goes into drive.
Obvious thought is that the tranny is gone. I would have thought that this would show signs before doing this as everything seemed fine last night.
Anything else that you can think of that I can look at? And if you are in the Reno/Sparks area, who do you take your car to for repair.
Engine light (amber color) came on but went off a few days ago. Today I made a short trip and the light came on and then the car suddenly stalled. It did not die totally, but rather it seemed to be in a high idle and wouldn't rev up when I pushed on the gas. Letting off the brake the car would go about 20 mph but no acceleration, more like I'm coasting along oh so slowly.
Now I'm stuck at work with a 20 mile trip ahead of me. Is there some kind of trick to reset something to get it running again or am I stuck? What this could be? Won't be able to get the codes read until I can get it home, which hopefully won't involve a long tow.