So my 2001 SF GLS (220,000 km) has developed a quiet hiss on the RHS that's only present when I go above above about 2000 rpm while accelerating. Starts and stops instantly with the gas pedal. Maybe some crap in the fuel line? It doesn't seem to affect performance, but it could be a sign of something developing.
View 3 RepliesI was driving down the road tonight and have been hearing a hissing sound when accelerating and when I went out to get it audio of it to send to the VW dealer, I heard a loud noise, and now it sounds like I don't have an exhaust, the rpms aren't raising no where near what they should be, and have a gaseous smell.
View 14 Replies2004 Jetta GLI - I am getting a hissing sound when accelerating. Could it be the Turbo?
View 2 RepliesThere's this 1.8t gti I'm buying this week from a family member and we've been trying to solve an issue that we ran into. When accelerating the car there is a hissing noise, safe to say that it is air. Then when accelerating a little harder and you feel the turbo pulling you everything seems fine. But a second or so after , the turbo dies off and so does the hissing noise. Then I can let go of the gas and repeat the process and it happens again.
My issue is that I cant figure it out since I Need to be driving to hear the hissing and the turbo cut off. I looked around the threads but nothing really seems to match my issue. No codes either. On top of that I've never owned a 1.8t and don't know much about its turbo.
I just noticed my 2 weeks old car is making some hissing noise when accelerating. It sounds like air leak, or air movement. It is only noticeable when the window is open, and only happen at 2000rpm or higher.
View 15 RepliesHave a Whistling or hissing sound while accelerating? My 2015 6.2 seems to make this sound while under load. I took to dealer and they claim its the throttle plates not closing all the way. Claims this is normal, but to me it is annoying. Just would like to know what others think.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2016 SFS 2.0T.
For the past week or so, I've been noticing a hissing sound coming from underneath the car near the front driver side area.
It almost sounds like air being let out of a tire. It only happens when the car is turned on, and the sound is there when the car is in park or in gear.
Not noticing any change when driving the car.
My clutch makes a hissing sound whenever i press it down while driving, its working fine, but am worried about the sound, i checked the master as well as the slave cylinder and there is no leak. Plus how do i remove the moisture from my headlamp.
View 3 RepliesEver since I bought my 2000 mk4 golf I've had this super loud hissing noise coming from the bottom of the car. Almost like someone is spraying compressed air when your foot is on the throttle. Sound gets louder the more you depress the pedal. Had a catalytic converter code so after a few months I bought a new cat, welded it on, and the sound fairly went away. Still present, now months later the sound is now a bit louder but It's gotten on my last nerve, I want to fix it but I can't seem to figure out what that noise is.
Almost sounds like my car is a classic beetle by the way it accelerate at times. The car is sort of sluggish than normal at times, no codes, no lights, sometimes peeling out in 1st gear the car hesitates like I have regular power, then I have this sudden burst of 1 second power then back to normal until I shift then I never feel it again until I'm back in 1st and WOT it. Car does smell like gas a little sometimes, not too prevalent but nonetheless noticeable especially going in reverse. My gas meter seemed to fluctuate at times, I may have a bad pump maybe, not sure if that has anything to do with it.
I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
View 5 Replies2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
I just changed my stabilizer link front right side and it did not solve the single clunk noise that I hear when accelerating and braking.. although it did solve the "multi clunk noises and creaking I get that is now gone away.. but this other single clunk noise what else could it be from it does it when driving straight and there are no clunks when turning. I must add that is that I can hear it and its a low pitched clunk... and is also felt in the steering wheel.
View 2 RepliesAfter change sparks plugs, I can quickly see battery and brakes light goes on. I can feel a lost of power when the light goes on. I've check all vacum hose and cabling and all seem to be ok.
View 1 RepliesNoticed a brief hissing sound when accelerating firmly? Doesn't seem to be coming from the engine compartment, maybe from under the dash, it is very brief, a couple of seconds tops and sounds a bit like pressurizing a container just before the valve closes. Not an issue, not even a nuisance, but I am curious about it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 santa fe with a 2.7 and it is 4wd.
It sounds loud during the morning and at idle almost like a diesel loud. It has a horrible timing climbing hills to the point where you can mash the peddle to the floor and almost redline the transmission from 4-5k rpm when redline starts at 6.
It has the CEL on and codes as a p044 and a p0112. I have a OEM oil filter in it and am running synthetic but it still has issues.
When accelerating fast it makes the valve clattering noise and once it catches up to speed like when it reaches the top of the hill it makes the clattering valve noise.
2005 3.5L 105K. I had the timing belt replaced at 70K. Ever since then I get a winning noise in the right front when turning left and accelerating. Does not happen turning right. I took it into another dealer and he said it could be in the power steering. But why turning left and not right? He didn't think it was the CV joint.
I changed the PS reservoir in case it was a clogged screen. That did not work. Now I am getting a rattle sound on the right with the car in D or R when the car is first started, moving slow or not moving. The sound goes away in N. I don't know if these sounds are related or not. What could be causing these sounds?
My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
When I bought the car a few weeks ago, there was a p0507 code for a high idle in park, about 1300 RPM, but sometimes shooting up to 3000 when I shifted into park and then dying down. The code goes on and off intermittently. Not that big of a deal at first. Then I started noticing that if I revved it in park it would take forever to die down to 1300, and sometimes would fluctuate around 2000. I also noticed hesitation while accelerating around 1500 RPM and the transmission hunting for gears while accelerating, as well. I noticed my throttle cable was very slack so I tightened that, and bought myself a throttle position sensor, thinking that might be the problem, but didn't install it yet.
I was driving on the freeway yesterday in cruise control and then I started losing power while my foot was on the gas. With my foot on the gas, the throttle would cut out every second. I was basically one second of throttle, one second of no throttle, all the way down the highway. Almost impossible to drive. This continued even after I turned cruise control off. I limped my way to Home Depot and installed my TPS in the parking lot, and drove most of the way home with no issues, although I still noticed a slight hesitation while accelerating. Alas, I tested cruise control again and then the throttle on/off problem started again, then I could barely drive the thing, even after cruise control was off again. I'll be returning the new TPS to Autozone today, since apparently that's not the problem. What's my next move?
2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
View 22 RepliesMy car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.