Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: High Revs While In Park
Jun 28, 2014
05 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, 71,000 miles
Prior to today it had revved high, up to 3000 RPM, once or twice upon start-up but then settled down once I started driving it with no issues at stop lights.
Today, however, no issues upon start-up but within 1 mile it started acting badly. Pulls strong under load, i.e, accelerating. Once cruising speed is achieved and the right foot is relaxed, it loses power, slows and bucks.
At stop lights revs are down to below 800 while in drive and is slow out of the gate. When put in neutral at stop lights, it revs to 3000 then falls to 2000 then back up to 3000. It does not stall.
Replaced the IAC and it ran fine in park for exactly 2 minutes then began revving again.
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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We have a 2006 CM later model Santa Fe 2.2 CDX+ 7 seater. Engine light came on last week and since then car does not shift into 4th gear. It revs very high upto 5000rpm with no increase in speed, it's limited to 30-35mph.
I had this problem back in 2010 where the Hyundai franchise identified a fault with the EGR which was replaced under warranty, and then a year later a problem with the fuel sensor which was also replaced.
I had the local garage check the EGR and give it a clean based on the steps provided by a member here - no change. So I took it to Hyundai but this time, they are reporting fault codes P0733 and P0744 which point to transmission problems. I just had a call from the garage who say they believe the gear synchromesh is jamming thus not allowing the change of gears. He said that the diagnostics report that the car is sending the gear change command correctly (pulse generator ok) so does not believe it is an electrical fault.
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i have just replaced the clutch in my 2002 santa fe all went well but on the test drive i noticed the revs jumping up and down while idling at a set off lights . it was not in gear and the clutch was out. Have checked all hoses and connections. problem still there.
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Three months ago I acquired a car from my brother. It was a 2001 hyundia accent gsi. The car had sat unused for 10 months and because of this I had to put some work into it. It has a new battery, new starter and new engine belts because one snapped upon start up the first times. I have also had the oil changed.
For some reason it is reving really high. At about 100km/hr it revs at about 4000rpm. I have talked to my brother and he said it did not do this before. It is changing gears because I can hear it and watch the rpm's drop before going back up. In 3rd gear at 60 km/hr it revs at about 2100 rpm's.
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My auto transmission is sticky at times. This usually happens after an hour of driving doesn't happen all the time. The gears start to change at high Rpms like 5 to 6k. It's real annoying. Otherwise the tranny is very smooth , like butter . Shifts into all gears.
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Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
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I have been getting a 2006 Santa Fe GLS A/T back on the road for friend who let it sit for almost 2 years because the bumper had gotten knocked off. I charged the battery to get the car to start and it started up OK, but the front brakes were shot completely. I then proceeded to replace the front brake pads and rotors, and when I went to start the car again I noticed something peculiar.
The car wouldn't start, or even attempt to (didn't here it cranking at all). I know the battery is good, and all the other components in the car turn on when I turn the key to A/C setting. I have the shift lever in what would seem to be Park, but the light on the console shows it is Reverse. It shows the car is in reverse when I have it in Park or Reverse, and shows Neutral when I have it in Neutral.
Before I did the brakes (which I don't believe to be related) it was being a bit fussy about switching gears and going into park, but it was definitely working.
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Two times in the last month my 2003 Sante Fe would not start - the radio, air conditioning would come on but nothing from the engine - not even a click - no check engine light. Had it towed both times - as soon as it was towed it would start up. It seems to happen in 2 week intervals. Now I realize bc they had it in neutral to get on the truck that is what facilitates it start. It hasn't happened in a week but I know it will again.
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1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
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Isn't the park gear selector indicators suppose to me illuminated when you turn on the lights, mine aren't. Why?? stick shift between seats on floor.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
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What can I do about my car it's not shifting, it's stuck in high gear and when I go from park to reverse it makes a loud thump. The check engine light came on and the codes are transmission control module it's a 2006 and only has 30,000 miles on it. It's hard to believe it's the brain so we changed the fluid and cleaned the sylinoids but then when I drove it around the block I put it in reverse it didn't make the loud noise and it shifted fine for a minute before I got around the block and almost home it made a loud banging noise and went back to not shifting again. What the problem could be.
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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My car seemed to drive home fine but when I put it in park to open my garage it started revving really fast and the check engine light came on. I could barely get it into drive and then it didn't hardly want to stop once in drive.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. In the mornings when I start my car, it revs in park, but the rpms go down when I put it into reverse and back out of my spot. When I put the car in drive, however, it will not go forward for at least 5 seconds (time has been increasing). I can press the gas and the engine will rev, but it takes a long time to actually get my little car moving forward. Is this a new transmission problem? I love this car and live in fear of having to replace it.
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I have about 2000 miles on a new V-8 and there seems to be a loud tingy noise if I really get on it say above 4500 revs either driving or in park. It seems to be coming from either the catalytic converter or exhaust area. It is a very metallic clanging noise that is very audible outside the vehicle under heavier throttle positions, almost like a metal plate hitting another piece of metal.
2004 T-Reg V-8, Black, Conv, Xenons, Park, 19's,SS2
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