Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: High Oil Consumption / Throttle Sticky When Accelerating From Lower RPM
Mar 26, 2012
2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
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It's time to do some oil change and is using 10w30 synthetic but the truck is eating fuel like crazy and I can hear some kind of knocking when full throttle .
Sparks , boots and fuel filter is new . The mechanic said I should put some lighter velocity oil . truck odo 130k v10 hot hot weather .
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L FWD. The gas pedal feels sticking. I cleaned the air intake butterfly once, but it only works for 3 to 4 days. The gas pedal becomes sticking again. What's the problem it might be?
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I'm working at summer camp with limited access to my mechanic and information on what i can do. I went to move my car today and when I put the car into reverse the shift was very stiff it went, and moved in reverse the same happened when putting it into drive. The vehicle drove fine the few feet i needed to go but then was sticky shifting into park. I thought I had it in gear all the way but i couldn't turn the vehicle off. I finally got it to turn off (I'm honestly not sure how) and so i tried to start it again to see if it was just a fluke thing... it wasn't. my car would not start. the radio a/c and basic lights came on but the engine did not. there was no clicking noises of anything. a friend and i tried opening up the hood to see if anything looked out of place of did something wrong when trying to start it but we didn't see anything.
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I have a 2002 Elantra GT, is consuming 22 miles per gallon, one of these days the car was alarmed with a check engine, the mechanic checks to see if he had a loose wire, then removed the battery, put it on again and check engine disappeared. Following this, the car is doing 30 miles per gallon. After 5 hours the alarm appeared again, we scan the car and gave the code P0420. These days the car has been decreasing again the miles per gallon.
I bought the car with 186.000 miles but the person who sold me the car said he had 68.000 miles, the board was stolen and damaged something, then had to buy a Yonker the board and that board came with the mileage, is this possible?
What is suggested to improve the fuel consumption?
It is possible to know how much mileage the car has traveled in reality?
With so many miles traveled, which recommended preventive maintenance?
This error code says that the catalyst has to be replaced but can also be a leak or may be some of the oxygen sensors.
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I'm experiencing some TPS failure symptoms and high fuel consumption.... I've unplugged the ecu harness to measure the voltages, measured a constant 6v on the return signal wire while it should be about 0v. While the input voltage is normal 5v. A strange reading as well is that signal reading with both battery terminals is 6v!!
Would this be a short on the ecu cable or is it a corrupted ECU? Also today I had tough hesitation in the morning while the engine was cold, after warm up it was normal! Is this related or its idle sensor?! ( Plugs and their cables are new)...
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Alrighty let me see if I can get everything. 01 6speed 450hp at rear wheels. Comp 910 valve springs, valve seals, 238-80% injectors, full RR, 38r turbo, napa air filter, Hydra with Gearhead tunes, 5"exhaust, 280k about 100k on rebuild. All mods done 40k ago. Now I have a horrible up pipe leak I assume is causing the low boost #'s I have to do another clutch so up pipes will be fixed when tranny is out this week. But I'm using 1-2 gallons of oil every 3k or so. I smell burning oil when I get out, mainly if I am getting on it then stop. I haven't pulled the fuel filter to see if its a injector o ring. (Tonight's project) but turbo sounds fine, I'm going check for shaft play tonight. What could be my loss of oil without it actually leaking on the ground?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe LTD, and just recently started experiencing a strange noise when I am accelerating, and I cannot pinpoint it. Here is some info on the noise.
-2008 Santa Fe LTD AWD, about 25,000 miles
-Sounds like a little higher pitched hum, not very loud
-Seems to be coming from somewhere near the passenger side backseat area (first found out about it when someone was sitting there and asked what the noise was)
-Cannot tell whether it is coming from the interior or exterior of the car, but I think exterior, but it is definitely somewhere along the passenger side, from the back half of the car.
-Noise occurs when accelerating from a stopped position, only when accelerating, never when braking or idle.
-Noise occurs only when car is in gear (hitting the gas pedal in park does not cause the noise to happen)
-Noise doesn't occur at high speeds or when accelerating at high speeds
-Noise only really occurs for a 2-3 seconds while accelerating, then seems to go away as I continue to drive.
-Noise doesn't seem to always happen, but very frequently.
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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I have a right front lower ball joint very loose and wonder if that ball joint press fits into the lower "A frame". And how is it removed ? What size fork tool needed?
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Occasionally, when braking at lower speeds (i.e. coming to junction) I get feedback through the pedal almost as if the ABS has kicked in....braking is not very effective when it happens. I can also hear a pump type noise going. If I lift my foot and re-apply it clears and normal braking returns. In fact, sometimes I can hear the pump noise going even before I brake....always at low speed (sub 15-20 mph) doesn't happen when driving at higher speeds.
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My daughter just bought a 2002 Santa Fe LX which is drooling oil all over the alternator and everything else in that area. I found what (I think) is the source (but you have to be a contortionist to see it.) I haven't been able to find any good parts identification photos of that area, but I think that this is the bottom corner of the lower timing belt cover.
I guess the repair will require going through the first several steps used when replacing a timing belt. I don't plan on going any further than needed to fix this leak, though, since the timing belt was reportedly changed about 25K miles ago.
Before I start taking all this apart, I have a couple questions:
1. What might be holding this corner out, away from the block?
2. Is the timing belt cover supposed to snap into place over a lip on the block? Or, should it be sealed with gasket sealer -- or something similar?
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Looking for the instructions on how to remove the lower power steering belt and replace it. We recently discovered the leak and I can't find any information on it.
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A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
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I was driving along nicely, then faced with a climb up the hill, I floored it ... the throttle stuck fully and the revs up to 5000 RPM and the governor kicked in, zoom ... hmmm zoom hmmm .. I was lucky cuz I shut off the engine and was able to coast back down to my driveway. No code reader, I decided "how hard can that be" since it happened once before and then worked ok for 6 months ... maybe a linkage, etc
A friend looked at it and tried the old process of elimition ... unplugging the MAss Air Flow connector ... trying it ... then the TPS on the throttle body. He suspected one or both. So I replaced them... happy to get the sucker started without revving uncontrollably. But the pedal was sticky, the idle speed too high and when you press the brake pedal ( and nothing else ) the car stalls, putt putt putt kerplunk. Starts up again tho. but impossible to drive like this. So I gets me a code reader .. follow the directions and this is what I get now
P0441 Evaporative Emission system Incorrect Purge Flow ( this is an easy one even for me ... the engine light came on last time I fueled up - gas cap was not turned enough ) no brainer
P0122 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0101 MAss or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / PErformance
P0222 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P2119 Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range / PErformance
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
P2422 Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve Stuck Closed
Puzzling since whatever broke started working again spontaneously last time. I figure, it cannot be all the above at the same time .. perhaps one of the early sensors?
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I have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
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I have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
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Codes P0210 and P0733 for throttle sensor and third gear mismatch came in.
Dealer is going to replace throttle position sensor and said the Hangar Bearing is bad needing replacement.
I was just curious how long those jobs take to do roughly?
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
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I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
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