I own a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe with 40k miles on it. I drove it to Vegas about 2 hours ago and noticed that about every 6 minutes the headlight would kind of flicker. It was pretty constant the whole trip. There are no other lights that flicker, it's only the headlights. Is this a known problem?
View 5 RepliesI bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
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2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
100k 2.0D .... Recently when pulling up at roundabouts or junctions either at low speed or quite rapidly, the engine oil light flickers. This doesn't happen at all on idle no matter how high it is revved and never while speeding up or at high speeds. I have tried to narrow the time it happens and just ended up being confusing because it can happen slowing down while in gear with engine under strain or to a lesser extent while coasting with g/box in neutral at idle speed.
The engine oil and filter has been changed but to no avail (as expected). I could check the oil pressure sender and wiring but it doesn't make sense as why the fault is not sporadic and quite consistent when it happens. (Also I did look at trying to remove the sender unit and possible fitment of a pressure gauge but how the *BEEP* do you get any tools to that!). I did mention it to a friend who knows a pair of mechanics at a local garage who both straight away went *ooooh sounds like big end bearings!!*
I have a 1987 Chevrolet Celebrity that on the exterior is in pretty rough shape but seems to run great overall. The car is only driven to and from work which is only about 4 miles each direction. So it is drive 8-10 miles a day 5 days a week. It starts great and doesn't seem to have any problems except for the flickering oil light. After about 10 minutes of driving the oil light will start to flicker whenever the car is stopped (i.e., a stop light or drive-through) As soon as I start to drive again it will stop flickering. This problem seems exacerbated on especially not days and it happens earlier than normal. It does have an oil leak so I check the oil often but this happens even when the oil is at a normal level. I don't really want to take the car in because it isn't worth anything and I don't really want to invest money into it. What might cause a flickering oil light?
View 10 RepliesWe got a 1990 celica gt with the 5sfe in it. first night driving it after about 30 minutes the oil light would flicker at idle. We checked the oil, it was nasty so we did a complete oil change. Didn't fix the issue. Well then we developed an oil leak at the oil pump seal so we replaced all those. We had heard the sending units were notorious for going bad so we took it out and put an aftermarket gage in it. Still an issue.
Ok so then we checked the main bearings to make sure they were ok, they are fine. Normal wear. No clogged oil screen either. We then was told to try a little bit thicker oil so we did that. Still the issue. Here's what happens. start it up cold at idle is about 50-60psi. Let it warm completely up and it drops to 18-20psi. When you rev it up it rises.
Ok well after driving it for about 30 minutes after warm when I came to a stop it dropped to 0! Rev it up and it rises a lot. Held it at 2k rpms and it stays at about 30-35 psi. Ok as I'm driving it, it has good oil pressure. Motor is not making any noises other than the common Toyota valve chatter.
We have ran cleaner thru the engine thinking so gunked up ports and still no change. We are at a loss. Like I said cold it's fine, revving it up after being hot is fine. Driving it is fine. but boy when the engine is hot n u come to a stop or at idle it's nothing.
I have a problem that I've actually seen before but have never known what causes it. The drivers side headlight on my 2003 Santa Fe has gone out, so, I assumed it simply burned out. I changed the bulb and the low beams will not work. The high beams work, but it appears that the only way to have the low beams come on is to actually physically hit the housing of the light. Why that would be as I again changed the bulb (second one now) and tried it, again, no low beam, while the connection was accessible I moved the connect wiring around to no avail. But, once again, a small pop with my hand will have the low beam come on.
View 2 RepliesVery much enjoying my newly acquired CPO sc430 but there's a strange thing that I noticed: When I go over a short-bump or hit a patch of broken pavement, the driver's side headlight seems to flicker for just a split-second. Sometimes it even seems like the other one flickers too. What that can be? Is it normal for this car?
Also, my car has the dreaded brake-clunk that has been discussed in this forum ad nauseum. Is it worth taking it to the dealer even assuming they know how to adjust the clips and grease the system to get rid of it? How long does the "fix" last? I had a 2004 acura TL that did this from day 1 but only on the initial brake application after starting the engine. The SC does it every time I shift from D into R etc.
2007 ES350 ... My driver side HID would flicker and turn off after a few minutes. The HID would turn on after switching the headlights on/off. I have so far replaced both stock HID lights with Kensun 5000K and today I replaced the ballasts. My problem still persists, the driver side head light still flickers and after a while shuts down. What do I do next, I need this fixed because I have to get my Lexus inspected.
View 1 RepliesSanta fe 2003 2,7L 137000Km No Abs FWD ... I changed the alternator last week ... I got I problem since yesterday I doesn't had any light coming from the driver side (only the signal light working) I just changed today the bub last one had more then 6 year and I changed both. But when I turn on the light. nothing open. If I put high beam, we can saw orange glow.
I tested with my multimeter engine not started.
black and white 11volt
black and red : nothing (0.28 volt)
I try to see where is the fuse(under the dashboard or the relay (in the engine bay) I don't see light or beam term in the panel.
Here is the story, My HID headlights at 45k miles started to flicker and within seconds turn off. My only solution was to turn the lights on/off but the problem would constantly reoccur.
After calling the dealership and speaking to the morons there, I decided to replace the bulbs myself. I successfully replaced both hid headlight bulbs and the bulbs seemed to work perfectly. Sadly, the next day I realized that bulbs would still go out, sometimes the left side, sometimes the right side, sometimes both sides.
This had occurred twice thus far in the past 6 months.
2004 Santa Fe 3.8L Automatic:
I had stopped the car at a store several months back, got back in the car after about an hour and I go to turn the key and the motor will not crank at all. Battery was fine, lights all worked, etc. After about ten minutes of fiddling with the shift it finally cranked and started without issue. Tonight I had stopped, topped off the tank (mistake I am sure) and tried to leave the gas station, again, no crank (and I forgot my cell phone at home!).
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with the shifter thinking a lock switch issue it again finally cranked over and started right up! Sounds like a couple of isolated incidents, however what may be the causes?
The first time I don't recall if I had gotten fuel or not. I did travel a ways afterward if I indeed had. This time I could not get it to crank right at the pumps.
Could this indeed be the purge valve issue I have heard about on these causing it not to even crank?
So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
View 7 RepliesMy power steering went out a few months ago. No warning, whining, or hiccups. Just stopped working. Installed a new pump today, and it worked great for about five minutes. Bled it out, put fluid in, etc. Took off on a test drive and a mile up the road I went to turn into a street and power steering was gone.
Fluid is still full, belt is still there, no visible leaks. 2004 3.5L V6.
I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
View 4 RepliesI've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
I bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
View 8 RepliesMy wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
View 6 RepliesHad the following problems with my 2009 Santa Fe: Audio system would randomly reset when playing MP3 from USB drive, Headlights would dim/flicker when bakes depressed, LED lights on dash would flicker, random stalling while driving. Finally just died and would not start. The Hazard lights would not work only a bit of buzzing from the relay. Checked Battery, connectors, etc. All looked good. Measured voltage at fusebox (inside) and found it dropped from 12v to 4v when I put the hazard switch on. Showed there was a connection problem of some kind.
Finally used a jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to an ground point inside the cabin. Bingo that fixed all the problems, car started, lights were good, hazards worked. As a permanent fix I ran a wire from where the negative terminal of the battery connects to the frame, then drilled a hole in the firewall and ran the wire into the cabin. Connected the wire to a ground point in the cabin. Used a heavy gauge stranded wire. you can try this out with lamp cord as a temporary fix, but I'd use something heavier for a permanent fix. All problems have gone. No flickering, no stalling... This may be a problem on other models from what I've read in some forums (unexplained stalling - check the grounding in the cabin..).
I have a 2008 Prius touring edition. The passenger headlight starts on but then turns off after about 10 minutes. How to fix this issue?
View 5 RepliesSo I own a 96 Dodge Dakota and its had a few problems since I first bought it, but its all fixed except for one really puzzling problem. My head light will flash on and off while on low beams after about 30 minutes (if on high beams its almost instantaneous). It all started out with my dash lights going out then the head lights would go out when driving. I checked the switch and plug, both were fried, so easy enough fix. That fixed the dash lights, but the head lights still go out. I replaced the bulbs and yet the problem still exists. I then took it to O'Reilleys and the put a volt meter to my negative battery post and to and auxiliary wire just 6 inches from the post. When the lights were on they produced around 46 ohms of resistance and when they shut off they produced 26 ohms. Which isnt good, so I replaced the negative battery cable to try and fix the problem. This still did not solve it. The only other suggestion I have been given is to replace the high/low beam switch on the steering whee. Could that solve the problem?
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