My 2003 Santa Fe makes a grumbling noise when first started, and put into drive or reverse. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. The noise disappears when the drive train has warmed up.
View 4 Replies2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
View 18 RepliesI just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 RepliesRecently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
View 3 Replies2004 Santa Fe AC fan has started making a rattling noise. It gets louder when the fan is turned up. How can I check it? Noise seems to be under the glove box.
View 3 Replies2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
2004 Santa Fe, after starting car the brakes make a grinding noise, the nthe ABS, ESC and 4 wheel drive light come on. After the initial grinding the noise stops and the brakes work fine. Just the lights stay on.
View 4 RepliesHave been chasing a rattling noise for a while on a 2002 Camry 4 cyl AT.
Here's a brief video: [URL] .....
The conditions when the noise appears are as follows:
Start car, turn AC on, place into drive/reverse. Rattle is present initially, then goes away after driving a bit.
The noise seems to be worse after the car has been sitting overnight.
If car is started and placed in drive/reverse without turning on the AC, then the noise is not present.
If the car is started and the AC turned on and the car is in park/neutral, then the noise is not present.
The tensioner pulley seems to be moving quite a bit in the video. Is this normal?
I am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
View 2 RepliesI was driving my santa fe at 80 k's per hour when the revs started to climb towards 3500 thousand revs. I pulled of the road and stopped, I had noticed the engine light stuck on. then i lost drive and reverse, let it idle for 4 min and they come back. What's gone wrong with the car?
View 3 RepliesThe car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
Had this thing rebuilt less than 8k by a reputable local trans builder and the reverse started to fail on me told the guy the problem and said everything is "normal". Drove it and the thing started to act up slamed out of OD and the light started to blink. Took it to the guy to get it checked and said most likely the tranny is toast the fluid does smell burnt.
Then he told me that I had two codes and that they were the cause of the tranny to fail, the codes were P1105, P1106 and that the voltage going to the solenoids was low roughly at 8.6 volts... Can the alternators have anything to do with tranny messing up? I took the to be tested and both alt are good I have a constant supply of 14.4 volts from the alternators. Can this be the pcm taking a dump?
Forgot to mention that this is a 2001 f250 platinum Edition 7.3 power stroke.
I have 2001 ford explorer sport.. it idles very low in drive and reverse and then shuts off.. What has been replaced:
1. Torque converter
2. All new plugs n wires
3. Map or mass sensor
4. Iac valve
5. O2 sensors
6. Fuel filter
7. Air filter
8. Throttle valve/sensor
It does not run bad only when u come to a red or stop light.. Had the vacuum tested and no vacuum leaks.. also no check engine light has come on and no codes have popped up when tested..
I have the following codes:
P0705
P1529
It looks like P1529 is caused by P0705. P0705 is the neutral range sensor. I purchased the sensor and replaced it. It is aligned correctly and I am still having the same CEL and codes.
What the car doing: The car jerks into reverse and drive. The dash does not indicate what gear I am in (PRNDL).
When it drives, acceleration is very slow. I believe the car is "stuck" in third gear. I've heard of fail safe mode?
What I did: This problem started when I changed my stereo. I did three bad things which may have caused this problem.
One, I had to put the car in "L" to get the dash off. I left it in "L" for a while then I tried starting the engine while it was still in "L".
Two, when I reinstalled the center console I swapped the wiring for the hazard lights and the rear windshield wiper (GT)
Three, I wired the dash illumination positive and negative together.
The cluster's backlight does not come on anymore and these codes came up. I checked all fuses and they are good. Where to look for a possible shorted wire that can be causing this?
Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
My 2003 V6 3.6L has decided to not go into reverse today. My driveway is on a slope and the car is a few feet from the door so it is hard to tell if it goes into drive.
Obvious thought is that the tranny is gone. I would have thought that this would show signs before doing this as everything seemed fine last night.
Anything else that you can think of that I can look at? And if you are in the Reno/Sparks area, who do you take your car to for repair.
I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 RepliesI had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
I was being dumb and floored my passat in reverse. Now its making a really bad noise when i rev it or drive at all. It sounds like someone holding something against a moving tire or wheel or something. Not sure if its the tranny or a belt or what and there's a slight burning smell...
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