Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Fuel Pump Hums When Turn The Key To On / Cranks But Won't Spark
Jul 31, 2014
My Santa Fe quit running one day as I was driving. The fuel pump hums when I turn the key to on. The spark plugs look ok. One coil is not getting a spark. We replaced that coil and it still isn't sparking. The timing belt appears to be fine. I bought an OBD II reader, and it gave me the code for the camshaft position sensor. We replaced that today, but there is still no spark. I cleared the code and tried to start the car. There are no codes present so I am assuming I fixed the camshaft sensor issue. Next up on the list is to replace the wiring leading up to the ignition coil. I gave it a quick look over. It appears to be ok, but I might replace it anyway. The outer housing is cracked a little, but the car is 13 years old so I expect that. Before it died there was an awful sound coming from the engine. It sounded like a piston was rubbing/scraping. I am throwing that out there just in case it is related to my electrical issues. I have noticed other weird electrical issues as well. The middle brake light usually works, but sometimes it doesn't work and sometimes only part of it works.
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Was driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
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Instead of a normal humm I get a growling noise when I turn the key to prime the fuel pump.. I am think fuel pump issues.. but no sure if thats what it is??
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe that died on me while driving down my street. The engine sounded like it was loading up for about 1-2 seconds, then it died. It turns over but does not fire.
After a little troubleshooting, I have no spark in cylinders 1 and 4. I swapped the two coils thinking that I had a bad coil, but then the suspected bad coil created spark on the 2-3 cylinder side. So both coils work.
I towed the car to the shop and the mechanic after about 2 hours of billed labor, he is leaning toward a bad ecu. He said there also is no fuel metering from two of the fuel injectors. He checked the resistance on the injectors and said they are fine. He is thinking it is a control/command issue. The car has many other unrelated problems and I am not sure I want to spend too much more money on it.
I am skeptical about a bad ecu. Or sensors that may be causing my two cylinder no spark and alleged fuel problem?
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I have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
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2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
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2001 Santa Fe. 4 Cylinder
It has spark, it will run briefly with starting fluid.
The camshaft, crankshaft, fuel pump and TPS are all good.
All fuses are good.
The fuel pump relay is good.
The FP relay gets power to both the control side and the FP power in side.
If I jump the FP power side of the relay it will get 12v pump to the FP connector.
NO power to the FP cutout switch by the master cylinder.
So, how can the relay be good and the FP get power if I jump the relay but not have power when I put the relay back in? Is the ECU cutting it out as soon as it gets a signal from the relay?
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I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
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Santa fe 2.7litre 2004 240000km... My santa fe won't start, after check we found no power at the fuel pump. we change pump, we found a bad contact at the remote starter connection. we decide to cut the wires of remote starter. after the car start and ride 1 day, stop with check engine, towing
We take off the remote starter and disconnect all wire of this remote starter. The car start and stop. After that bizarre problem, the park light stay open, and the window can be up and don't with no key in the ignition!!!!
We check fuse relay etc, all wire of the old remote starter and we take off battery and rebuilt the ground. We still have the same problem; when we tried to start at acc, everything seam normal but the wipers run at off position and when we turn the key for starting , wiper stop , radio close.
Like we have a ground problem. We change the ignition little baril now we think the computer is maybe dead. I double check all remote starter wire and every thing seem ok !!!!!
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02 Santa Fe was recently in a minor accident that popped the airbags. Engine won't start now. Where do i find the reset for the fuel pump?
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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Having a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
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My brothers 2001 is having an issue with the fuel pump. It has a random no fuel pump basically the fuel pump does not come in, he turns the ignition off then back on and you can then hear the fuel pump turn on and the truck starts and runs normally. I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank to replace the sending unit so I was thinking maybe the relay is the issue? I'd eater do that than a sending unit job...
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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I was on my way to work and my car would not start after I stopped at the gas station. One of the people at the station gave me a jump start and I continued to work. I asked one of my co workers to give me a jump to get home and when I started the car there were sparks and a bit of smoke from the battery. We hooked it up right and it will turn over but not start. The fuses are all good, the dash lights come on (service engine soon, check engine and security). We replaced the battery, and the coil assembly (I think that contains the ICM, but not sure). I called the mechanic I normally use and he said it was probably time to buy a replacement car. My friend (the one who hooked it up wrong) thinks it might be fixable, he has some mechanic experience and stated we are getting no spark and the fuel pump will not engage. We hooked up a car scanner to it and it was unable to communicate.
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Accent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
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Lately my car takes 2-3 cranks before it starts and I'm thinking it could be my fuel pump. There were a few times recently it took like 8 cranks to start. How to test fuel flow to see if it has issue? Also, could a old battery cause this issue?
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My issue. 95 short Aerostar, Vulcan engine, A4LD trans. Just got it last week. Bought a new trans and when I went to pull the van into the shop, it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't run. First thing I checked is fuel pressure, got zero. Pulled the kick panel and found the inertia switch, but the harness for the switch is getting 1.8 volts with the key in "ON" and the same with it in "START". IIRC it should be zero in RUN after a second or two (if the engine isn't actually running, that is), and 14 in START.
Checked all fuses in the panel by the steering column, they're good, and switched around the 3 relays by the battery. No good and I don't hear the FP relay when I turn the key. For now I'll run wires directly from the battery to the pump, just til I get the trans done, but it needs to be fixed anyway because I plan to make this van a DD. Here are my questions:
-Is there a second fuse panel I didn't find?
-Could this be a computer issue? If it is, would the computer fuse be blown?
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As I say in my first thread my 2000 4 runner don't start after I change the spark plugs. I don't get any fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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