Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Front Right Caliper Does Not Work
May 23, 2012
My front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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My low beams won't work. High beams and fog lights work just fine. We just replaced both bulbs a few months ago so the chances are pretty slim that it's a blown bulb.
I've checked the fuses and relays. I switched the low beam and high beam relays with no luck. Still no low beams.
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Ok so my santa fe is doing some weird things. No dashboard lights work the car wont turn over, it has new battery new starter new ignition and no fuses are blown. Basically it seems electronically dead.
My mother in law was driving it and it just killed, my brother in law changed the starter and battery first then the ignition switch.
I have been working on cars for 15 years and i've never come across this problem.
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2004 santa fe, 2.7 L engine, temperature control doesn't work, it blows out hot air only. All fuses look good and I tried a new A/C heater control unit with no luck.
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For some reason my back brake lights on my 2006 santa fe are all goofy. The two in the rear window work fine. The turn signals work fine but the right and left brake lights don't work. I replaced the10 am fuses and the lamps. It did not work at all. I don't understand how the top lights would work but the right / left wont. I even tried the flashers and the brake lights are not on either. I don't see a fuse in the box in the engine compartment labeled for rear brakes, so I am at a loss.
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So I lent my santa fe to a buddy to do some hauling, I got it back yesterday and the turn signals and the brake lights don't work...notta. Regular running lights are working without issue, but no turn signals, no hazards, no brakes. Even the "tick, tick, tick" of the turn signal is gone, it's just dead.
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It seems as though whenever I turn on the AC in the car (and sometimes even if I don't engage the AC) all the windows lock and only I can control them from the driver's control panel...
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Started getting a knocking in the front end when you hit small pot holes. I was wondering would it be strut mounts or something else ?
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At my last dealer performed oil change, he writes "CDM front caliper service due next time". He says something about needing to lube the front calipers .....
Is this service that should be done, or is the dealership service department looking for a chance to make money for unneeded service?
I had 15,000 miles on my 2010 Prius at that time. If needed, is it something I can easily do myself?
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I heard a grinding noise coming from the right front tire last night. Came home, removed the wheel / tire and noticed the caliper was stuck pushing the pads against the rotor. I pushed the caliper pistons back in so they're not frozen, just sticking.
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The best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
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'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
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I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
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'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
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My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
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Someone had worked on the car and front caliper pins got mixed up. Where the pin with the rubber piece goes into. The top or bottom of the caliper. and is it the same for both sides.
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Last couple months, I've started to have some major vibration in the front end when reaching the 60-70 mph range. Some minor vibration in the 55-60 and 70-75 ranges, but primarily (and worse) in the 60-70 range. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas for more acceleration (particularly when I gun it), not when I'm coasting in that range. I had the tires balanced a month or so ago, so I know it's not that.
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I just picked up a 2006 GLS with 66,600 miles. Everything works great aside from the front door actuators. Outside at the drivers door I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the passenger front door). From the passenger side I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the drivers door). The Central door lock switch will not lock or unlock the front passenger door.
I am hoping that the fact that either side functions with the other doors indicates that the actuators are still working. My guess is that the front actuators just aren't communicating with each other. Is this just a programming problem that the Hyundai Hi Scan Pro computer can resolve? It doesn't appear that the vehicle has been programmed for the xx MPH automatic door lock. We had to have the dealer program this "option" on our 2007.
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2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe and it's been running fine except I just replaced my oil pan from damage from ice and just did front brake pads 2 days ago.( oil went onto the pads and caused a weird grinding sound) ...
After the brake pads were done it drove fine. I came home and the next morning I go to reverse and the truck will not move at all. I can go to any gear but it just will not move. I thought it could be the brakes were frozen because the front right was smoking after the pads were installed and had the guy who did them check it out. he figured it was a caliper on the driver's side and replaced it, but it will still not move. I am praying this is not a trans problem.
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