Front and back brakes heating up and locking on intermittently brake pedal feels normal this has happened 3 times over the last 500 km of driving pedal not sticking down break fluid ok no swelled lines today noticed front left and rear right rotors were hotter than front right and rear left once vehicle sits they release and all is good no abs lights or any other warning lights on.
View 1 Replies2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 Replies2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
I was going to replace rotors and pads. found the calipers seized. took them apart, cleaned and regreased. Pads were fine. Problem is that both front brakes don't grip rotor. Back brakes work fine...
View 2 RepliesWhat would cause this? The brakes work fine until you get into that range of brake pressure in which the abs wants to kick in. The brakes then lock up(may be only front driver), the pedal sinks to the floor, and don't disengage until the car is at a complete stop. It does this with esp on or off.
The previous owner changed a front wheel sensor and bled the brakes. The abs module fuse under the battery cover was melted but not blown.
VCDS shows no codes. I did not do output test on pump, didn't have my laptop with me.
Abs pump bad?
Mc?
Servo?
Caliper?
Brake line?
I bought this car 2 weeks ago and the previous owner failed to let me know about the problem and it happened to me a mile down the road after purchasing the car. I started to notice a lot more because of the rain and snow recently. It's definitely an uneasy feeling. I really don't wanna drive the car till it's sorted.
Replaced all components of front right braking system. Calipers rotor pads and hoses. Still, every other day or so the front right brakes gradually start locking up within minutes of driving.
I just bought car. I am stuck with this problem now. Only thing left i'm told is replacement of abs module.
Can you just bypass a faulty abs module instead of replacement?
I have a 1988 gmc c2500 with brake problems. the front brakes keep locking up both sides. Have replaced the calipers rotors pads and the brake lines. I can bleed them off and they release but has soon has you it the brakes they lock up again.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Forester, recently noticed the front brakes locking up, especially on hot days. Completely immobilized car, to get going again I would have to wait for them to cool and/or cool them with water if pads smoking from trying to drive with brakes engaged, and tap on calipers and master cylinder to allow pads to release. Problem got worse as it got hotter out, due to job I rarely drive car and didn't get in for service yet. Last time pads burned a whole lot and braking felt odd (less pressure and uneven like rotors were messed up or pads burned up).
Took it into brake place, they had never seen before. When they inspected, discs were in bad shape with one cracked, but I don't think that was original problem, just caused by driving with them hot. Shop at first said fluid seemed clean but I left and later they said it was contaminated but I don't trust them. Shop solution is replace everything: calipers, pads, hoses, flush system, and replace ABS (the most expensive part I am hoping isn't actually necessary). I don't trust shop for several reasons including because they admitted having never seen this and seemed content to take maximum amount of money just to replace everything without knowing what actual problem was.
My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
I have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
View 9 RepliesJust got the girlfriend a 2002 Santa Fe and the front passenger door locking is a bit random! Sometimes it unlocks and unlocks ok from the key in the drivers door or the lock/unlock buttons, other times it half locks / unlocks (the lock button on the door panel half moves!) and other times it just ignores me all together! The cabling and cable boot from the body to the door seems in good condition (my audi A4 had that problem and you really dont wanna know about the wiring nightmare i had to fix that!!! bloody Germans!!). My feeling is that its a worn actuator.
View 2 RepliesMy brother's 2005 Santa Fe keeps locking up in 3rd gear. I've read around here that the P0715 error code that I have is for an input sensor, but I replaced that and it still doesn't work. I also tried the vehicle speed sensor as well and it didn't work.
I was with someone at AutoZone who pulled up a page here that said no I really needed to replace the transmission control module but I can't find that thread here.
Santa fe 2004 - When locking the car with RC, lights did not flash. Cause was hazard light fuse. To verify this, activate the hazard lights, if they do not work at all, check the hazard light fuse. When I replaced the fuse all issues were resolved.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa fe and if it is raining or if I drive through a puddle of water, my steering is locking up, what may be causing it? I am afraid it will cause me to wreck.
View 1 RepliesEvery time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
View 5 RepliesI have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
Have 2005 excursion. Just did ball joints , wheel bearings all of them, axle joints and seals.Also warn manual hubs. Have a intermittent scraping grinding noise sounds like driver but could be both front.4wd works fine in high or low, no vibration just this annoying noise. took brakes apart and no funny wear or foreign object in dust shield.
View 3 RepliesHad a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Santa Fe with manual (knob) A/C control panel. the problem i am having is that when i turn the A/C on the A/C light on the control panel comes on and it works fine but in the last few months i have noticed that the A/C light will turn off intermittently. This almost seems like the A/C button has a bad contact because i just touch it and the light comes on and I feel cold air again.
1. I have not taken the panel our but is this serviceability or do I need to replace the whole control unit?
2. Also is this a dealer or junk yard part only or are the there third party manufacturers for it?
3. Since i have the manual control and if i have to replace the unit can i order the digital (push button) control and just easily connect it or is it more involved that that. like i might have to replace other components for the digital control to work or modify the opening or what not.
I do not believe this is the compressor because it seems more related to the the A/C button itself. I checked refrigerant and everything seems ok.