Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Fast Rusting On Front Brake Calipers?
Feb 10, 2014
I've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
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I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
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So my vehicle is 6 years old and the front edge of the roof panel is severely rusting from corner to corner. Warranty originally tried to pass it off as stone chips (lol) before I got an independent surveyor to inspect. He said there's no doubt it's a manufacturing fault and is rotting from the inside out. I went back to Hyundai with this appraisal letter to which they replied 'your anti perforation warranty only covers from the windows down so the roof isn't covered.
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Since I have this car i noticed that the brake calipers (especially the front) are very noisy. This problem is caused by caliper's floating guides that become loose and the entire brake caliper shakes. I asked at a kia mechanic who answered to me to change the calipers support. For my trusted mechanic is useless because, according to him, this type of support have this problem (he tell me that also others car have this problem like older nissan micra) and sooner or later would return noisy.
Some time ago with greasing the floating guides i temporary solved but drying up over time the problem come back.
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Fairly recently acquired 1992 525i, 101,000 miles. Love the car and driving feel, don't mind putting the effort in but do not know where to start. She needed some work including both upper and lower control arm bushings. Replaced those over the last couple of weekends. This week the front brake calipers are locking up adding significant drag to the car, overheating the front brakes, smells and feels hot. Rear brakes appear to be fine. Seller had replaced brakes within the last 5,000 miles. I thought maybe he did not 'grease' the caliper guide pins and components, so I tried that and all was well for a few miles then back to the same locking brake calipers.
Is this brake caliper, brake cylinder, master cylinder or ABS related? Do I need to bleed the system? I cannot not imagine how but could replacing any of the front suspension components have had anything to do with this? I read on one thread about an interconnection (power assist) provided by the power steering pump and that 'over filling' the PS reservoir could cause such a problem. I did add fluid to the reservoir recently but the level is between the marks on the cap dip stick.
If caliper, or cylinder related is this DYI? How about the ABS? I have been looking for some good links to address this problem and repair procedures but no luck as yet.
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Have a continuing problem with the front brake pad antirattle clips? Mine keep bending or rusting and prevent the pats from retracting. I live in a high salt area but still I shouldn't have all the problems I do.
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Tons of information on this and its possible. What? I'm still learning the search feature.
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I have a 99 150 4 wheel drive..5.4 ..auto...110.000 mile.....notice when driving in town in hot weather....when you are on and off the brake petal a lot....stop and go..etc.....the truck starts to hop or bounce....some....I got out ..and notice the right or passenger side front brake seems a lot hotter than the drivers side......but ...when it does that....the steering wheel doesn't pull to one side...when changing pads before ..notice no one side worse for ware than other...thinking it must be sticking brake calipers....they don't do this say on interstate driving even when on and off the petal some...
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Heard clunk (technicdal term) noise when you are in reverse and press the brake pedal. It is coming from the front end/brake area. I did not see a service bulletin for this.
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2014 f305 rusting out fast. Ford needs to address the problem and fix these issues on the super duty already on the road
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First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
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When I release the brake pedal too fast, the brake pedal bounces back with sound which is a little bit loud to me. I feel the sound is from the spring if there's one. It's annoying so I have to remove my foot from the brake very slowly. Is it normal?
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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I have a 2003 santa fe with a 2.7 and it is 4wd.
It sounds loud during the morning and at idle almost like a diesel loud. It has a horrible timing climbing hills to the point where you can mash the peddle to the floor and almost redline the transmission from 4-5k rpm when redline starts at 6.
It has the CEL on and codes as a p044 and a p0112. I have a OEM oil filter in it and am running synthetic but it still has issues.
When accelerating fast it makes the valve clattering noise and once it catches up to speed like when it reaches the top of the hill it makes the clattering valve noise.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
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Have a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
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I have two 2002 ford Excursions, both with 7.3, one 2WD and one 4WD. I have replaced ALL brake calipers with lifetime warranty Napa semi-calipers. It is sometimes an intermittent problem, I might have smoking brakes on one wheel (mostly the rears) one day and it will work fine for weeks or months and then do it again. It seems that about 1X per year I end up having to replace the calipers as they seize up and cause the brakes to smoke and cooks the caliper piston boot to a crisp.
I use high temp brake caliper grease (not sure if it is silicone based) and bleed the brake system about 1X per year because I thought the brake fluid was absorbing too much moisture. The slide pins come pre-greased, but I always check and re-grease them. Could I be putting too much grease onto the slide pins, Hydrolock?
I live in high humidity, in the middle of a rain forest near (about 5 miles away) a live volcano, Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii. Our area is very wet and we have acid raid and acid air (H2SO4 volcanic smog in the air) which corrodes everything, corroded pistons getting stuck?
I have not tried other brands of calipers because I cannot afford to keep buying new brands, I just trade in the toasted calipers at Napa for no charge. I have replaced all the rubber brake hoses and i upgraded to DOT4 (not silicone based) blue racing brake fluid that has a very high wet and dry boiling point. I am thinking of investing in stainless steel calipers, but those are pricey.
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After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.
2006 Touareg V6 Silver
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I just noticed that my black brake calipers look dull. I used my finger to check it and behold, the shine is back. Is there anyway i can clean the brake calipers without removing the wheels?
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I was cleaning my brake calipers and noticed that neither of my calipers have pad wear sensor connected to pads.
My 2012 GTi had sensor on the inner pad, but I cannot find one installed on my MKVii GTI. Looking for a photo of the caliper and the location of the sensor?
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Gen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
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