Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Extra Wiring Harness After Gas Tank Replacement - Code P0452
Jul 25, 2015
We (a relative of mine and I) replaced the gas tank on my 2004 Sante Fe a few months back, as it had rusted through. After a day of swearing and such, we got it replaced and running. During that, the engine light was on, so i figured that it was due to the excessive fuel leaks.
I take it in to work and scan for codes, and it popped up with the P0452 code for the evap solenoid circuit (and the rear o2 code, but that was quickly addressed). Just for giggles, i removed the rear seat and access panel to double check our fuel connections, and found that we forgot to hook up a wiring harness. The only issue is that I am scratching my head as to where it is supposed to plug into, as i do not see any connectors in the area of the tank.
(As you can see from the pics, both wiring harnesses are plugged into the mounting plate for the fuel pump, and included 2 pics of the offending harness)...
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This is on my 05. I assume its for fog lights. Is that correct? If so, where is the fog light switch? I don't have one near my headlight switch. Is this one of those things where everyone gets the harness, but the option is only on the switch if equipped?
Here is the harness....
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Turns out my option is splicing a new plug on or replacing the wiring harness. Now, SHOULD we decide to just replace the wiring harness. Is that a rip off?
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Since Toyota didn't have the replacement wiring harness in stock and it took nearly two weeks to get it, and I didn't take a picture of the old one before I removed it, I don't remember where these wires attach!
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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Getting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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I'm getting a p0452 fault on my 2002 Escape 3.0 V6 2WD. From what I've read, that seems to indicate low FTP signal below .22v. As I understand it, the FTP sensor has 5 v applied, and the output to the ECU goes down as tank static pressure increases. Conversely, I think the voltage back to the ECU goes up as tank static pressure decreases (for the vacuum leak test measurement).
What the approximate voltage is at atmosphere (engine not running, vent valve open, etc)?
I'm guessing the "less than .22v minimum" signal back to the ECU might look more like either the signal wire shorted to the frame somewhere or the signal wire open (maybe corrosion in the connector)....
Also, where the FTP sensor is located on the Escape and how to access it?
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The other day my truck stalled out and wouldn't start so I had it towed to the shop, the shop tested the fuel pump but couldn't find anything and it fired up and ran fine for them. It ran fine for a day and now is running extremely rich. The only code it's throwing is P0452 which is for the evap system. I spent awhile searching but couldn't find any answer on it.
I couldn't find any loose connections in the harness or on top of the fuel tank, I had the classic FDPM issues before so I replaced that. I'm beyond frustrated with this hulk seems like once a month it wants to quit working.
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I will be getting the DDM HID kit and wondering about the necessity for a wiring harness as it seems many are running without it. I am concerned the not having it will somehow damage the car (based on researching HID's in general) but loving the plug and play idea of running without one.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.
Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.
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Here is my problem I own a 2006 2.7l santa fe and I will be sitting there with a quarter tank of gas I then my gas light will come on I will look and I am outta gas then it will go back to a quarter, I am noticing it more often.
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The driver's side low beam lamp on my 2006 3.6L stopped working. I bought an H7 from the dealer, but it did not light up. How hard is it to change the wiring harness, and how much should I expect it to cost for the dealer to replace? A local garage said it'd cost $115 to just run a diagnosis on the wiring.
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The AC stopped working on our 1020 Prius. No mechanical problem with the compressor. It turns out that the wiring harness connector to the AC compressor is so badly corroded that the pins are gone. The car has 48,000 miles on it. It has spent it's life in the Seattle area so no harsh weather or a bunch of winter salt on roads to deal with. The dealer says it's due to the humidity here combined with the low miles. The theory is that moisture has the chance to build up in the connection because the car is not driven enough to regularly heat it up and drive the moisture out. Our 2004 Subaru Outback has lived in exactly the same environment since 2004 with pretty much the same rate of miles per year and no electrical issues at all. If that theory is correct, seems like a serious design flaw to me. The dealer's repair estimate is close to $4000!
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Early 2000 vs 2001? Looking for info on replacing wiring harness under the dashboard?
Is there enough clearance to pull the harness without removing the dashboard?
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I've got a 2004 Santa fe V6 2.7 with a strange problem (145k miles).
On Sunday I filled up the tank and the car would start but not stay running the engine would just peter out and die. Took me a few minutes and a little revving and feathering the gas to get it to where the engine would not die b/f I got it into gear. After driving a mile home I turned off the car and restarted it 3 times w/o incident.
There was a previous episode that was very similar a few months ago. However, this was an isolated incident. I did a little research on the fuel filter and discovered the necessity of pulling out the back seats and did not take any action beyond always buying good gas. I lied to myself that the first freeze and a very cold engine was somehow to blame.
Friday morning I left on a trip (w/o getting more gas) and in route I filled the tank twice and both times it did not want to start. The car stated like normal when I left for the return trip. I stopped for gas once on the way home with the intent of buying just enough gas to get home and leaving the engine running while I pumped. As soon as I removed the gas cap the engine died and was once again difficult to start (the engine seemingly becoming more stubborn with each incident).
Additionally the idle while in gear was not as smooth as it has been but not necessarily to the point where I would have noticed if I had not been watching closely. I spent about 10 minutes on idle and under 10 mph creeping through a construction zone and the rpm dropped sharply a few times. what this could be?
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Not my Elantra, but an '05 Santa Fe 2.7 ... I have a fuel leak from the driver's side of the tank. It has continued leaking while the vehicle has been parked with about a quarter tank of gas, even after 8 hours. I can see where it is leaking from - a quarter size depression in the tank - but I think this is some sort of plastic pan, not the tank itself.
Is there is a plastic pan under the tank?
If so, does it cover just the bottom half?
If it is a plastic pan, is the tank itself plastic or metal?
If it is plastic I don't see how it could develop a leak, so is it possible for the leak to be at the top of the tank due to a fuel line problem (maybe some mysterious syphon condition)?
I searched the forum and leaking fuel tanks don't seem to be a common problem. My usual parts store doesn't even have a listing for a replacement fuel tank.
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Transmission fluid migrating into the wiring harness? Just looking for a little education on the issue, solution, and prevention.
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