Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Error Code U0D00 - Engine Will Rev Really High When Moving After Stop
Apr 2, 2008
I got an Error Code of U0D00. What this is or means. The scan tool says to refer to your manual but I don't have one.
What the vehicle is doing is that it will work fine for a while then when you stop (in park) the engine will rev really high and back down all by it self for example. It will go up to 3.5 and back to 1 rpm repeated. Then when you start moving the car it will continue to idle higher like you are pressing the gas. During all of this the check engine light will appear?
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Engine light come on and everything is running great, this morning got this error code U0d00. Went to advanced auto and had them run a scan.
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So the check engine sign came up on my car and using the OBD it tells me the error is P0113. After googling the information, it looks like I have an issue with IAT sensor.
I opened the air filter and what I believe what could be the sensor and there was nothing clogging up, so I'm assuming the sensor needs to be replaced
Question is where is the IAT sensor located and how do I dis-assemble it so I can replace it. Is it the piece that is located just before the air filter?
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I just joined the forum mainly to care of my dads 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe but also I got a check engine light on my way home from work last night.
From last night I saw that oil was all over the timing belt. Today I inspected it with a Coworker and his OBD II reader.
Error Code was P0455, EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak).
Now the oil leak is stronger since the oil spills is on hood (inside hood). I will make a picture tonight when I get home.
I personal think it's leaking from a tube/ valve on top of the timing belt (picture will show more tonight). Thinking of cleaning the timing belt area, then drive a little around or leave it in idle to spot where the leak is from.
Common issue? I googled around but since P0455 is a common issue (on my 9-2x as well) I couldn't find anything about this I am also limited from my search since I am currently at my work PC incl. strong firewall.
I will see if google let me find a picture...
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How to diagnose the following codes: U0D00, P0711, P2300.
U0D00 - What this means.
P0711 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance. How would I go about fixing this?
P2300 - Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low
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We have a 2002 elantra...went to auto zone and they ran the test and came back with code u0d00...but they didn't have an answer for it in there computer..
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I've checked the lines from the Purge Valve on the Passenger side of the Intake Manifold, Check OK
I've Checked that Valve OK
I've Replaced the Canister Close Valve
I've got the Gas Cap tight.
I've removed the rubber bushing holding the CCV to the Evap Canister, hoping to isolate the Filter and point the blame on it, no luck there!!
I'm thinking next is to drop the Tank and check over all the Goodies on top.... as much as I hate the thought of that, the two access holes under the seats, just don't allow access to enough of the tank!
any thing there that I could suspect, I see there's a check valve!
There's also the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, which may be at fault.
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It seems that i'm most likely going to have to replace the entire plenum .
P1159 here are some details. [URL]..................
I've checked all connecting wires and none appear to be loose. When the issue started to occur and prior to discovering the P1159 code, I also replaced all coils. I replaced the coils because one was arching over to the metal of the engine. I assumed this may be my problem. The issue still persisted obviously. The check engine light never came on so I assumed I wouldn't get a code. I took it over to a friends house with a code reader and that's when I discovered that it was actually giving the P1159 code.
Are there any other model cars that utilize the same engine that I could use the plenum from? Getting this in working condition is going to be the difference in what I can get for it.
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I have a 2003 diesel GS Santa Fe, every now and then when driving the ABS light comes on, not very often but it does, if I switch the ignition off and restart it goes out, I had it on a fault finder computer and it showed code c1274, I think its something to do with the G sensor and the way it breaks (ABS) is it an easy fault to fix? What are the costs involved and will it affect the driving of the car, like I say it rarely comes on and I don't notice any change in how it drives.
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My Hyundai Santa Fe 2006 V6 3.5L shows error code P2100. I cannot for the life of me find the ETS relay. Ive scoured the net but just found vague drawings and pics that didn't show ETS relay. I would also like to know is the ETS relay also known as the fail safe relay or is that a separate relay. Ive seen pics of the fail safe relay but none for the ETS relay. If there is such a relay, exactly where it is located?
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
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Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
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I noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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Once warmed up, while sitting at a stop in Drive, there is what feels like an engine stumble every so often. Good guess is every 45-60 seconds, so it only happens once, maybe twice at long stops. There is a sudden change in pitch the engine, and the car - for lack of a better term - shudders. The thing I have noticed is that when it does this there is no indication anything has happened with the tachometer - RPMs hold perfectly steady. Additionally, there is no shudder when sitting in park or neutral, only drive.
I initially thought it might be an ignition fault, so when I replaced the balance shaft belt I also replaced the crank sensor. No change in behavior. I did some googling, which suggested the issue might be related to the EGR not closing properly. I changed all the vacuum hoses and removed the switching solenoid to test - it seems to be doing its job. I have not removed or inspected the EGR valve itself. However, because there is no symptom in engine speed and the sensation doesn't happen in park or neutral and only happens when warm, I am starting to suspect the transmission itself is the culprit - I can imagine if the torque converter quickly engaged and disengaged - and a little power made it to the wheels - the same result would happen.
There is nothing else odd about the engine or transmission. No codes. Runs like a top. Transmission always shifts perfectly. Fluid was changed two years ago, about 15,000 miles. What came out looked good as well. I'm okay with replacing EGR components, but I don't want to throw money at the problem unnecessarily. Maybe try driving around with the EGR vacuum hose pinched off or disconnected?
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