Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Engine Noises - Rattly Top End And A Low Frequency Thud
Dec 5, 2014
05 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L, auto, 2WD, 161K miles. Just bought it a couple weeks ago. Not much info about repair history, other than it appears to be well maintained inside and out.
Engine makes two kinds of noise - rattly top end noise and a low frequency thud-thud-thud.
I have shared some MP3 files on my Google Drive, but the forum blocks links for new users.
Apart from the noises, the engine starts and runs flawlessly, seems to have plenty of power (for a 2.7L, ha), and cruises at freeway speeds no problem. No tailpipe smoke or steam, whether cold or hot. Have searched the forums for this but nothing matches exactly.
I don't drive it much because I work from home, basically just around the corner to the grocery store and back. Haven't pulled the valve or timing covers yet, waiting to hear from all you Hyundai experts out there. Top end noise is one thing, but the thud really has me concerned.
Top end noise sounds like lifters not injectors - but I'm not sure I can really tell the difference, there's a lot of "sewing machine noise" going on. On cold start, it's not very noticeable, but becomes more pronounced as the the engine warms up. At operating temp it settles into a consistent rattle at idle. Seems to diminish slightly with higher RPMs, which also suggests worn/sticky lifters.
Oil looks clean and fresh. Haven't tried the Hyundai oil filter, but IMO this level of noise is well beyond the simple lifter ticking that others in the forums have described and reported cured by using the OEM filter.
I used the "long screwdriver with handle in my ear" trick to listen at various points on the heads and valve covers. At idle, it sounds like 2 or 3 lifters on the front bank that are making most of the noise, but maybe a couple on the rear bank as well, hard to get the screwdriver tip back there. Is there a particular spot where lifters can be heard best, distinct from everything else?
The low frequency thud-thud-thud is most audible when letting the throttle close after opening it up to about 2000 rpm. It can also be strongly felt through the throttle mechanism when operating it by hand. Still audible at higher RPMs, but not nearly as distinct, more of a subdued throbbing. Noise is coming from around the rear bank, about half way down the firewall. I fear it is number 3 rod, but is there anything else that would make this sound? I don't think it's a motor mount because there's no noise when putting it into gear, driving, or shifting. How can I tell for sure whether it's a rod? If it is a rod, can it be replaced without pulling the motor?
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While driving my 2001 F350 7.3 today running errands it started to have a real concerning issue. Once I slowed down back into my neighborhood it would make a thud, then feel like someone was pushing the brakes (even when i gave it gas). Then it would thud again and drive normal. I'm worried its the transmission getting ready to go. Any input?
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Just had my original transmission replaced at 96000km. My new transmission has a quirk that happens from time to time when you start the vehicle there is a "thud". It varies from small to loud and only happens the second the engine starts. I have noted that it is worse when the car is parked on a hill and the parking brake is engaged before the car is put in park. My only idea is a problem the the parking mechanism or pawl as its called. The dealer won't even admit there is a problem. I've never had worse dealer service with any automaker.
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I have a very strange electrical issue and CarMax is unable to find the source.
Detail of issue: It started 2 months ago before i left the country i took my car in to get the dreaded valve gasket cover and alternator and after taking the car back i left for Europe for 2 months. I was informed after 2 weeks that my car battery died and had to be jumped.
When I returned home I notice the following issues
1) Alternator Whine in my Sound System
2) Low frequency noise synchronized with engine rev that was triggering the sub low end making a very distinct wooom.
3) Sudden Power Loss for my secondary AMP. The base would cut on /off.
4) Light flicker in my Dashboard (only the GEAR LED) and the entire climate LCD. flicker also synchronized with engine rev.
5) POWER drop on the air con fans while breaking (the RPM would drop)
6) I saw the headlights where also flickering at the same frequency with the LCD and dash led a very noticeable flicker.
7) my headlights would dim when breaking.
8) My Car would start a bit slower (not as instant as before).
Initially i thought it was the my secondary amp that was causing the issue. I took the car to a great Audio shop and they said the On board Hyundai amp was sending weird signals. They said it was broken and i should have it replaced. I told them to disconnect the AMP from the car and leave it disconnected until i take the car back to Carmax.
I was hoping that was the cause ... it wasn't the lights keep flickering (at a far lower intensity probably due to the lower power consumption overall).
What could cause all of this. Alternator I had the alternator replaced two weeks ago (apparently it was broken). I changed 3 alternators in this car. Valve Gasket, Valve Gasket(they were retarded and didn't listen to what i told them) and broken.
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I have 2005 Chevy Malibu that has been making slightly metallic thud noises while turning. The car does not need to be in motion, but will make the noise in both forward or reverse in both directions. The noise is gradually increasing in loudness. I have inspected the CV boots and verified that this car has electric power steering assist. The dealer would not look at it, stating that the "Malibu's do this". Additionally the service rep stated that "if he had it checked out they would not find anything anyway." This noise does not sound like anything that should be ignored and sounds like major failure / safety issue pending. I can find no consensus on what might be wrong?
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I figured out what was causing my small clunking noises in the front end.. They were faint, but you could hear them at low speeds..
Front sway bar bushes and end links.. Replaced mine with auto7 bushes and moog endlinks.. They didnt "feel" loose or wobbled but replacing these parts got rid of my clunks..
Only downside was the bushes are really hard to replace, need to remove the rack, subframe, etc..
My car has about 150k miles, and the bushes were a little oval..
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Disconcerting noises from my engine that began suddenly around 198,000 miles.
Nobody listening seems to think it's bottom end, and I did check valve clearances and found them all to be on the tight side (ten within tolerance on the tight side, and six just-out-of-tolerance tight).
I also saw what looked like less oil on the #4 exhaust cam lobes and I'm wondering if there could be some kind of oil delivery issue. (#4 exhaust was also an area that had stuck out to the stethoscope before I took the cover off).
There's a dark brown varnish pretty much everywhere on the top deck (photo in other thread), pretty much as a thin coat that doesn't rub off easily, but I saw a few flat flakes coming off here and there, and wonder if that stuff might occlude an oil passage.
I've picked up a product called Auto-RX that I've never used before. From reading its patent I think there at least might be something to it (an ester of a fatty acid that's claimed to dissolve varnish and sludge without the other effects of more conventional solvents).
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My 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe as reached 40 MPH. While driving, after slowing down then giving the car gas, it would make a very loud thud and I would be jolted forward. At times it sounded like the transmission was going to be left on the roadway. Is it common problem?
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I have a relatively new to me Excursion. It seems to run well and shift well but recently I've become very aware of a strange hum, thrum, and vibration in the floor boards. The sound and vibration have a definite cadence/pulse.
Here is what I have observed trying to source the sound. Occurs around 2500 rpm and continues up to 4000 haven't really gone past 4k to know about after that.
Occurs in Park, neutral and drive and is more noticeable under load especially when towing. It is not really noticeable under my normal driving style it gets lost in the running gear until the X is at around 3600 RPM's which typically doesn't happen unless I'm pulling a long grade with a trailer. It was only after testing at a standstill in park and neutral that I realized it actually starts at approximately 2500.
Other than the vibration and low frequency hum starting at 2500 there are no real indicators of reduced performance or other problems but it's got me nervous.
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I was driving my elantra today, and hit a big pothole. Since then, sometimes when I'm driving in fourth gear (I think), I'll feel a thud, and the rpms will go up a little. Then, when I try to accelerate after a stop, the car won't accelerate normally, like it's still stuck in fourth gear. 2005 Elantra ...
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So... My car started making a loud thud noise... Thought I blew a tire...sounded similar... But I see nothing wrong... Not sure where to tow it to....
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We were using my 2001 7.3 4x4 (automatic, manual lock outs) in 4 low yesterday on dry pavement in an attempt to pull out the remainder of a 6x6 post in concrete. We were working her pretty hard alternating directions of pulling. At one point we heard a loud bang (see also: thud; pop; etc). It seemed at that point that the front axle was no longer functioning in 4wd. We still had the low gearing feel, but at one point I noticed my rear tires trying to slip on the driveway, but fronts didn't appear to be pulling anymore.
Long story short, came in, went to bed, went out this morning and thought I'd jack up the front end and roll the tires in both 'free' and 'lock' to see if the universal joints (yokes?) behind each wheel were spinning or not, depending on whether free or locked in. I noticed on the passenger side a few drops of a clear/light colored fluid that had dripped from behind the dust cover that isn't functioning any longer. The joints worked as they should, based on if it was locked in or not.
I decided to go ahead and put the back axle on jackstands as well and see how it was working when "driving". When in 2wd, rear worked, front was stationary, as it should be. when in 4high, rear spun, front driver spun erratically, nothing from passenger front (where I had seen drip). 4low was same thing - erratic on driver side, at best.
So I know I have front axle/transfer case issues. The question is, with the drip (smells like grease, so I'm assuming its gear oil?) would I be safe to drive it a few days with hubs in free position? I don't want all of the fluid leaking out when I'm driving down the road. I use the truck for work and wouldn't be able to be without it until later in the week or next week. But I also don't want to drive it if it will just make my predicament worse.
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Sound shown in video. This is when vehicle is idle, as rpm's change the sound becomes more frequent. Check engine came on about a week or two ago, not sure if its related (haven't gotten the chance to get it read yet).
[URL] .....
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O.K., I admit I get obsessive compulsive with my new cars for a few weeks after I buy them. Just got the '08 Limited and am trying to find where a few little noises are coming from. I've eliminated most now, but the 1 thing really bugging me is the seat belts. The rear belt part that you grab and then buckle into the seat latch rattles like crazy over bumps. It's just the piece hitting that plastic grommet in the middle of the belt. So, short of leaving the belts latched in place or (hubbys suggestion) turning the radio up, is there something to prevent them from making this racket? I almost never use the rear belts.
Compared to my 2004 I'm surprised I am bothered by it, but it is so quite it really stands out. That cheap plastic liner in the back also bugs me as the "wings" at the wheel wells rattle. I had a super heavy duty plastic liner and a really nice carpet mat in my 2004 that I really miss. Oh well, I guess they have to cut costs somewhere. Oh, almost had a near heart attack last night when I used my spare key and it got STUCK in the ignition! Took hubby 10 minutes to yank it out. I think it was a faulty key as they gave me 3 keys instead of 2. I think they knew it was bad, cut another and never discarded the bad one. Other than that no complaints so far and hope to stay as trouble free as my last one which never saw the inside of a repair shop in the 4 years I owned it.
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over the past two weeks my 2011 GTI seems to have gotten a bit louder and has a low frequency rumble when on the lower end of the gears (DSG). Any thoughts on this? From the exterior the car doesnt seem louder to me at all. I have a stage 1 APR and everything else stock
Maybe I am going nuts but it is bugging me!
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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So I was turning into my neighborhood tonite, when I got a really loud thud and a major hesitation in the engine. Fortunately I was in my neighborhood and could basically coast to my house.
No CEL came on and I don't seem to have any leakage (only thing dripping underneath was condensation from a/c I believe). Obviously too late for service tonite, so have tow scheduled for 7am. What could have happened? The no CEL has me confused. I was able to restart it and it seems to idle fine, but give it has and it hesitates.
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When starting, especially in colder temperatures, the engine start is interrupted by a "thud" sound. The start occurs after this one-second "interruption" while I keep the key in the start position. This interruption occurs only once, usually when first starting in the morning. Subsequent starts are normal,unless the car has not been in use for a few hours. Then the "first start" problem re-occurs. The starter motor has been replaced. No improvement.When the problem first began a few months ago, very intermittently, the gauges in the dashboard would not register as would normally happen and I could hear a whirring sound for a few seconds. Then the gauges would perform as normal. This is a 2004 Taurus with mileage of 64,000.
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My Prius just reached 200000 km this week. I bought it at 180000 km 2 years ago, I don't drive it that much simply because I work from home.
Today, a sunny day, 0 degrees, the check engine just lit-up. I opened the hood and checked fluid levels, all OK. I started it and listened to the engine, running as usual. However, when the motor stopped (hybrid ON), I can hear a high frequency noise. I don't remember hearing this noise, but I don't think I ever opened the hood with the engine Off but powered On.
How can I get the check engine code ? I assume I need a connector, right ?
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This little engine runs very hot. To make matters worst the radiator fan comes on high on the gauge temperature reading unlike other cars I have had in the past. What else to do to run the engine cooler without affecting fuel economy? I wish there was a way to make the radiator fan come on at a lower temperature.
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So I'm at my wits end trying to locate (and fix) a loud, high frequency rattle noise inside the engine compartment.
It can be heard when applying the gas pedal a certain amount. In other words, I can "find" the noise and maintain it at a certain rpm.
The noise is coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the throttle body plate and vibrating the gas pedal. I cleaned the plate and it isn't loose.
The issue doesn't seem to be affecting engine performance.
The sound is noticeable while driving (under load). When in park, I can find an rpm where the throttle body seems to take a heavy wave of vibration from the engine and hum (but not nearly as loud as while driving). Issue existed before I put on new motor mounts, and still persists after replacing all 4 (although the vibration and noise are reduced).
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