Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Engine Keeps Stopping For No Reason When Driving
Aug 26, 2012
I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
Just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7L at 157k miles due to the engine cutting out for seemingly no reason when I reached a stoplight, no codes were recorded though. Unfortunately, the frequency of cut out started to increase in recent years, to the point where it died on our local beltway in traffic at speed - too dangerous. The CPS on the 2.7L is accessible from under the front of the car; it's positioned on the engine just over the starter (front face of engine) and a closer to the transmission side of the engine. I've seen threads here where folks have replaced the CPS without removing the starter, but in my case I removed it because I just couldn't reach above and over the starter to remove the single bolt holding the CPS.
Removing the starter is easy enough, just two bolts holding the starter body and one bolt connecting the battery cable plus a couple of smaller wires. Be careful enough to clean around the CPS first before removal. When I removed the CPS I was surprised to find what you see in the attached close up photo of the old and new CPS's - the insulation around each of the three individual wires entering the CPS body from the connector was badly frayed, just crumbled off to the touch.
Lots of heat and road dirt over time degraded that wiring to the point that all three wires were bare and touching each other intermittently and shorting out the CPS signal to the ECM: No CPS reference signal means the engine will cut out until it gets restarted. Anyway, check out the photo and note the red circle I annotated to show wiring damage. The new part shown with the old for comparison in photo was only $30 at Advance Auto Parts, might be one of those sensors worth replacing to prevent trouble as the vehicle ages.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2003 Sante Fe, 245,000 miles mostly problem free... been a good vehicle! About 3 months ago the ABS would kick on for no reason, tracked it down to a broken ABS ring. Disconnected the ABS by pulling the fuse until I could save up for the new axles. Two weeks ago as I was pulling into my driveway there was aloud bang and the pedal went to the floor. Come to find out the passengers side brake pad broke and the metal backer actually came out of the car. Luckily, I was home when this happened. Traced this back to a sticking passenger caliper, not the piston but the pins, pulled out and cleaned and lubricated the pins, installed new brakes and the new axles with ABS rings (not happy to toss out good axles for the ring.
Anyway, brakes were great for 3 or 4 weeks then out of the blue the brake light came on. Brakes felt normal, fluid level full, no leaks and parking brake is disengaged.
Today my girlfriend was driving it and she said heard a weird metal sound and then the petal went to the floor, it would stop but she had to really push hard... I should also mention that the rear brake lines were replaced several months ago and nothing is leaking.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 that has ABS and Traction Control. A problem has developed and not sure where to look for a fix. At random times the ABS seems to actuate itself for no apparent reason. It happens pulling into parking spaces, turning the wheel sharp in general at low speeds. I have even had it happen at low speed while on the gas. At various times the ABS and TCS lights come on and stay on for periods of time. I have checked the brakes themselves, but I feel the problem is in the ABS/TCS system. No obvious things wrong with the speed sensors themselves.
View 14 Replies
3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
View 4 Replies
Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
View 5 Replies
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
View 13 Replies
My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
View 6 Replies
So I have 69,500 miles on my car. I leave it parked on a small hill for 3 days and when I turn it on after 3 days of sitting it sounds like it is going to stall and the check engine light blinks. I roll it to the bottom of the hill and turn it on and the light doesn't blink but just stays on. On top of this, randomly but always after stopping when driving i smell a really strong burning oil smell. The smell is so bad i have to open the windows.
I don't think it has anything to do with the CEL but it has been happening for some time. It only smells after you have been driving (mostly Highway) and then stop. It wont happened if your in traffic or driving around town, you have to be on the highway then get off and stop and you smell it. It can happen once a month or twice a week, it is completely random.
View 8 Replies
My 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T 148,000 miles starts up fine in the winter and in the morning's in the summer. However, if its 85 degrees or above in the summer and the car is warmed up and I'm running errands, stopping and restarting the engine. The car will crank and sputter before it starts or it will not start. These are the dealers notes from last year: RPM signal not good. Checked for relevant codes none found. Tested fuel pressure it is OK. Found when problem exists the tach bounces and the RPM sensor signal is erratic. Needless to say I declined the extra $300 to pay for more diagnostics. When the problem reoccurred this year I took it to my local Volvo tech and they replaced the RPM sensor at the cost of $180 for parts and labor.
View 4 Replies
I'm at 3,200 miles on my 2010 Santa Fe and all is going well except for the fact that every now and again, the interior windows fog up. And I'm not talking about regular fog...this stuff has earned the nickname of ninja fog because it comes out of nowhere and it's impossible to get rid of. It's only happened twice but it doesn't indicate a fault of the automatic climate control. The first time was my fault. I was behind an old Thunderbird and hit the recirculate button to get the stink out. I passed the 'Bird but forgot to turn it back to fresh. The fog was so heavy that it took running the defrost on full blast for [b]15 MINUTES to clear it.
It happened again tonight but came totally unprovoked. I keep the system on automatic and set between 70 and 74 F and tonight I had it set on Auto at 72 when it happened. I was sitting at a red light and all of a sudden, POOF! There it was. Came literally out of nowhere and after running the defrost on high for the rest of the drive home, even the passenger front window was barely half-clear. I noticed the outside temperature gauge went from 44 to 41 - very quickly so I'm wondering if a quick external temperature loss causes the relatively warm inside of the glass to fog up.
View 53 Replies
2003 Santa Fe GLS 3.5l with 170k.
Been working OK up until about 2 months ago when I would notice a brief hesitation every once in a great while when driving. It became hard to start - would crank well but just took about 5 seconds to finally start. Recently, I was on the highway and it jerked at about 65mph but did not cut off. Once when I was at a traffic light, it shut off completely but started right back up again. I was convinced that it was a crank or cam position sensor as I had dealt with a similar issue with another car years ago. It also seems to start right away when the temps are in the single digits - when they get higher than 25 or so, hard to start again.
I bought a new crankshaft position sensor because all the posts I've read point to that being the problem given the symptoms. I haven't installed it yet - still looking into this and wondering where it is! I'm thinking that it might be more fuel-related now though because after I started my car after work yesterday (it went all day without being started) it was hard to start but this time it was if I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. It kind of sputtered until I gave it the gas enough where it would settle out. Fuel pressure regulator? I hadn't thought it would be fuel-related (pump, pressure regulator) because 99% of the time, the car works just fine.
View 18 Replies
I recently bought the Santa Fe Sport 2017 model. The alarm just keeps going off for no apparent reason. It seems like any wind or a car driving on a street will set it off. Is there a place where the alarm sensitivity can be adjusted?
View 1 Replies
What could it be? Replace front brakes. Then they said it was front axels, replaced them. Making same noise... grinding and feels like you are hitting brakes when you are not. Sounds like metal on metal. What else can it be? 01 sante fe 180,000 miles v6 awd. It was doing it in reverse but after all of this now just in drive at slow speeds.
View 3 Replies
So I go on vacation, and as we're driving down, the CEL comes on with p1166 pd1166. Get home the code still pops up. A month later small oil leak is detected. Clean the throttle body intake, fuel and exhaust systems. Oil leak gets worse, turns out the crank shaft seal has failed. Shop cleans out the oil, and replaces the timing belt. Clears the code and the CEL stays off for 5 days. I clear the code and Its good for days. Get it up over 50 and the CEL pops on. So today go for a trip mostly highway driving. I go over 125 miles with out the CEL coming on. Check it and the reader reports pd1166. Clear it. Driving back 4 miles and the CEL comes on. 2 codes p1166 and pd1166.
What are the time parameters for logging a pd1166 and the p1166. No engine issues, no performance issues. Gas mileage is 17-19mpg.
View 3 Replies
Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
View 3 Replies
My girlfriend has a 2005 Sante Fe 2.7L v6 AWD. Lately I've been noticing it more and more but when the car is driven for a good amount of time we hear a noise. I'd say maybe an hour or so (I've never measured it though) the car makes a whining noise when trying to turn the wheel or even accelerating. I feel some resistance in the wheel when it happens too but majority of the noise comes from turning the wheel. Also when this happens the car seems to want to pull to the right, i can feel the wheel starting to pull. If I let the car rest and cool down for like 20 minutes or so it will go away but then slowly come back. From what Ive been reading I think I can narrow this down to a power steering fluid issue, either its low, leaking or the screen in the bottle is clogged. I don't see any leaks, nothing pouring out the bottom of the car either.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
View 14 Replies
My daughter was driving our 3.5L Santa Fe on the highway when it decelerated. Stepping on gas and no acceleration. She said she got a CEL and oil light. She was able to pull over to the side of highway and turned ignition off and on and she was able to drive off the highway and called me. She was about 120 miles from home. She said the cel light and check oil light were now off and I had here check the oil and it was at full.
I had her drive in the right hand lane without going over 60 and she made it home no problem. I took it out for a drive and no issues. Do you think this is a crankshaft position sensor problem?
mileage is 170k - timing belt was replaced at 130k.
View 4 Replies
I have an 02 Santa Fe and last night while driving the fan would not turn off. It also started switching speed by itself.
View 2 Replies
2001 2.4 L AWD Manual Transmission.
Live data readings from vehicle continuously indicates "open loop- driving" for the Fuel System Status (Fuel System 1) . During idle and on open high way driving as 120 km for 10 minutes. I use an ELM327 diagnostic device with ScanMaster-EL 2.2 software.
After establishing this initially I disconnected the battery to do a complete ECU reset. I do not get error codes.
O2 Sensor1 Bank1 constantly reported as 1.275 V and sensor 2 as 0.02 V. I believe however the constant readings are as as a result of being in open loop.
No error codes reported.
The software report OBD1 ability on the diagnostic link.
During driving I got the following readings:
Fuel System 1: open loop-driving
Fuel System 2: not supported.
Calculated load: 6.27 to 83.14, avg 40.6
Fuel trims: 0
RPM: 1008 to 3988, avg 2407
Speed (km/h): 0 to 122, avg 77.66.
Timing Advance #1 degrees: 7 to 44 degrees, avg 22.42
Intake Air Temp (degrees C). 19 to 24
Air Flow Rate - (g/s): 3.18 to 69.27, avg 25.46
The software reports that the O2 Sensor bank 2 is not supported. I am not certain whether I should trust the software. In South Africa cats are not mandatory, hence is it possible explanation.
2) Is it possible to send a command on OBD to force closed loop?
View 1 Replies
