I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
View 2 RepliesI have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
View 5 RepliesTrying to get my daughters Santa Fe going. Engine stalling. Idles very slow. 2001 model with 2.4 engine, auto trans.
Code P0102 is active. Cleared with scan tool and it comes right back.
Replaced the MAF and no change.
Checked the intake for leaks / vacuum leaks and none found.
Checked for debris up-stream from MAF and all is clear.
Air filter is clean and dry.
Checked harness plug and found the pin 5 has 4.6 volts on it from PCM. This is the signal wire from MAF to PCM. 4.6 volts is KOEO.
IS THIS NORMAL OR IS PCM BAD ??? All other pins / voltages on harness plug are normal.
I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
View 17 RepliesI have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
View 12 RepliesMy wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
The air suspension is auto adjusting in comfort mode....The front end will drop and raise occasionally, and the "comfort mode" ride seems stiffer than it should be sometimes....
View 6 RepliesAfter I fill my 6 cyl 2004 Hyundai Sonata (280,000 km), the engines starts, then stalls. I can only get it to work by keeping the accelerator pushed to ensure sufficient rpm's. If I remove my foot from the accelerator, the rpm's drop to zero.With the engine revving, I put the car in drive and 'lurch' away from the pump. After that, everything is fine. It starts up properly … until the next fill. My mechanic is mystified and I am frustrated.
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 STX with the 4.6 engine. Occassionally, when stopping at a light, the engine will stall. I took it to the dealer where I bought it and he put it on the computer and found that once on a test drive the RPM's dropped to 490, but it did not stall. He said everything checked out fine and thought it might be a carbon build up, since the truck only has 27,000 miles on it and was driven only around town. He suggested a couple of tanks of higher octane fuel and a fuel additive to remove the carbon.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
To start off I have replaced the MAF sensor in this car 3 times now, and have all new oxygen sensors and a new fuel pump. The most recent MAF sensor I have put in the vehichle was 2 months ago and I did it because The car would die while idling, however the mass air flow code did not show up on the cars diagnostic trouble codes. Yet this did solve the problem. The previous MAF sensor had been installed a year ago and failed on me, it was under warrantee. Now that I have installed this newest MAF sensor the car has been running fine until last month.
Since then It runs especially rough at idle and has a tendency to die when sitting for more than a minute in idle. This problem is on and off however, it can run fine one day and as soon as i start it up the next day the problem will reoccur. Now I am getting the DTC for the throttle position sensor, evaporative emission control valve, and throttle position sensor. And more recently, today the problem occurred again, the first time in a week, and now I am getting gray smoke out of the tailpipe. I would like to know if I should again, try to replace the MAF sensor, or if there is some other problem that the Sentra is prone to that I am unaware of.
My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
View 6 RepliesMy 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
View 2 Replies2010 4x4 F150 Lariat 5.4 L, have been working on throttle response problems off and on for a few months. Initially got p0404 codes, and replaced the accel pedal assembly, now graduated to p2135 code, and stall at idle after a highway trip. Wondering if this may be a issue with aftermarket air filter causing misread errors on sensors. Had it to the dealer, with out any real remedy.
View 2 Replies2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI have an 2004 Santa Fe and im having some Mass Air Flow Sensor problems but I dont know what's wrong. My engine light came on for the second time after awhile. And I got it checked for the code and of course it was my sensor again. The first time I just giggled it around and the light went off. I did the same thing today with giggling it again went off. So I feel like it might be a loose connection but I really hope it isn't failing because im pretty sure that's uber expensive to fix.
View 2 RepliesSo the check engine sign came up on my car and using the OBD it tells me the error is P0113. After googling the information, it looks like I have an issue with IAT sensor.
I opened the air filter and what I believe what could be the sensor and there was nothing clogging up, so I'm assuming the sensor needs to be replaced
Question is where is the IAT sensor located and how do I dis-assemble it so I can replace it. Is it the piece that is located just before the air filter?
Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
I just joined the forum mainly to care of my dads 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe but also I got a check engine light on my way home from work last night.
From last night I saw that oil was all over the timing belt. Today I inspected it with a Coworker and his OBD II reader.
Error Code was P0455, EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak).
Now the oil leak is stronger since the oil spills is on hood (inside hood). I will make a picture tonight when I get home.
I personal think it's leaking from a tube/ valve on top of the timing belt (picture will show more tonight). Thinking of cleaning the timing belt area, then drive a little around or leave it in idle to spot where the leak is from.
Common issue? I googled around but since P0455 is a common issue (on my 9-2x as well) I couldn't find anything about this I am also limited from my search since I am currently at my work PC incl. strong firewall.
I will see if google let me find a picture...
Engine light come on and everything is running great, this morning got this error code U0d00. Went to advanced auto and had them run a scan.
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