Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Engine Coolant Temp Cycles
Oct 17, 2014
I have an 04 SF with about 160K on it. Normally, the engine temp is just under the mid mark. Yesterday, on my drive home, the temp climbed to just under the redline, then declined to slightly above the mid mark, repeating this process several times. Each cycle took about 2-3 minutes. I was driving uphill at 20-30 mph.
I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor had gone bad. But I checked the OBD codes and found nothing there referring to the sensor. This morning, I let it idle in the drive, and the radiator fan turned on after the engine warmed. Coolant was a little low (there seems to be a slight leak somewhere), and I added some.
What could cause the temp to cycle up and down like that?
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My wife usually doesn't drive at night, but I had her car for the evening and I noticed that when the AC cycles her headlights dim momentarily. I took the car to advance and they said it was a bad battery, I replaced the battery and it still does it.
I had them check the charging system after I replaced the battery, and it checked out. What could cause this, alternator??
2005 Santa Fe ....
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My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
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It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
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I just had my 1998 Passat 1.8T with 97000 miles checked since the engine light came on. It started this afternoon and the car ran just fine. I took it to an Advance Auto and after they plugged in the OBD tool it came back with the code PO 116. Engine Coolant temp CKT Range/Performance.
The fellow decided to clear the code and then the car would not start. I waited for about 15 minutes and the car started with some hesitation and the light was out. When I got home I let the car sit for a few seconds and it started perfectly like nothing ever happened.
Does that mean that the temperature coolant sensor is bad??? I have a Hanes manual and apparently is not too difficult to do. Would I have to partially drain the radiator?
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Few weeks ago I threw a CEL for an engine coolant temp. It went away and came back now as a P3081, I don't recall that being the code before. But from what I understand It is a simple sensor that I can replace myself. Car is running fine and not overheating.. it did however overheat the last time It threw a CEL but that was also stop and go traffic with AC on.
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fan does not run even when temp is at 210
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I have an engine code of P0128 (low coolant temp etc.) I now think it's because I no longer have an Engine Splash Shield under my engine and the extra air is cooling the engine. I took it off after backing into a snow bank like an idiot. At first I thought it might be that I poured green coolant into the pink coolant because I lost coolant cleaning the throttle body (120,000miles). This mixture supposedly causes clumping and clogs in the system etc. Since then I flushed the coolant system and replaced it with yellow coolant which popular mechanics said was OK. So I'm left with the question of do i change it again to the pink coolant (~$50 compared to ~$15 for yellow coolant, thats why i got the yellow) or do i get an engine splash guard? Or Both?
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I got my car back finally and on the way down the belt way i started sliding around a big turn and I get home to see my temp gauge way up and all the coolant went all over my engine .
I took it to a shop the did pressure test and that was fine, But the also found jell around the thermostat. The other thing they said is that it had air bubbles in it too. They said exhaust bubbles. But when they ran it it didn't heat up any more. They said its the early stages of blown head gasket ..
I took it to the dealer right away and they are telling me they cant find any thing wrong. Both places asked if i put stop leak in there but I never added anything to my car. So I am lost and don't know what to do.
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When the temperature drops below about 30 degrees f, the windshield washer won't spray. I am using washer fluid so I don't think that it is freeing or that there is any water in the lines. I read somewhere that this might be a defective motor, part number 98510-26100.
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So I got a 98 GMC sierra and the ect sensor that is on it only had one wire running to it. Obviously the previous owner tried to make something work. I bought a new ect sensor and pigtail to rewire it but can't find the ground wire anywhere. Looking for a wiring diagram?
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Recently the temp sensor on my car goes all the way to H and then the light comes on saying I need coolant. It only seems to happen when I have the heat and/or defrost on -- if I turn the heat off the temp goes back to normal within a minute or so. (no problem using rear defrost)
First time it happened I pulled over, checked coolant level and added a little. The next time it happened I looked under the hood the next morning and coolant level was just fine.
Happens more often when I'm driving around town than on highway. Usually within about 5 minutes of driving in the morning the engine temp is all the way to H.
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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