Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: ECU Stuck In Open Loop-driving
Jul 15, 2012
2001 2.4 L AWD Manual Transmission.
Live data readings from vehicle continuously indicates "open loop- driving" for the Fuel System Status (Fuel System 1) . During idle and on open high way driving as 120 km for 10 minutes. I use an ELM327 diagnostic device with ScanMaster-EL 2.2 software.
After establishing this initially I disconnected the battery to do a complete ECU reset. I do not get error codes.
O2 Sensor1 Bank1 constantly reported as 1.275 V and sensor 2 as 0.02 V. I believe however the constant readings are as as a result of being in open loop.
No error codes reported.
The software report OBD1 ability on the diagnostic link.
During driving I got the following readings:
Fuel System 1: open loop-driving
Fuel System 2: not supported.
Calculated load: 6.27 to 83.14, avg 40.6
Fuel trims: 0
RPM: 1008 to 3988, avg 2407
Speed (km/h): 0 to 122, avg 77.66.
Timing Advance #1 degrees: 7 to 44 degrees, avg 22.42
Intake Air Temp (degrees C). 19 to 24
Air Flow Rate - (g/s): 3.18 to 69.27, avg 25.46
The software reports that the O2 Sensor bank 2 is not supported. I am not certain whether I should trust the software. In South Africa cats are not mandatory, hence is it possible explanation.
2) Is it possible to send a command on OBD to force closed loop?
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2001 Santa Fe, 2.4L DOHC engine, 129,000 miles
I bought the vehicle knowing that it was not running well. It idled quite smoothly but had no power on acceleration but was able drive it home at ~30mph. Never had a timing belt change so I foolishly fixed that before I solved the low power problem. Timing belt change went OK and then I discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked - HUGE crack. Fixed that and installed new cat at the same time. Checked compression and read consistent 127-129 across 4 cylinders. Also installed new before and after O2 sensors at this time. Started her up and sounds good, idles smooth. Hooked the scanner up and read P0115 (something about engine coolant temperature circuit), so I cleared it thinking it must have overheated in the past and that is how the E-manifold cracked.
P0115 never returned.
I have no codes showing now however it appears to be running in open loop and scanner shows "open loop due to insufficient engine temperature" but engine temperature is reading 200 deg F. Also the O2 sensors are not being read, see attached readout.
At this point I am stumped and am thinking I need to check fuel pressure or maybe injectors are clogged. But why would it be running in open loop?
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
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She left with it still in 2nd thinking she could make the short drive without any problems but half way home it shifted down to first and it wasn't even driveable. Everything i have read on the web (which was not really specific to the santa fe) was say that its stuck in safe mode. What could have cause the problem? So far no check engine light has come on.
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2003 Santa Fe 41,000 stuck in first gear.
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I am the proud owner of a 2001 2.7L V6 Santa Fe. His mileage is roughly at 170,000 and I keep up with fluids and minor repairs (except an oil change, oops). Yesterday I was out with my fiance and our German Shepherd, we stopped at a restaurant and while we were inside our dog decided to redecorate the gear shift (PRNDL) with my ice tea. I noticed a problem immediately.
When I started to drive, there on the dash board was the normal "D" with and added "1" as if it were stuck between automatic and sports mode? I attempted to shift it to full sports mode to manually shift; I couldn't get him (the truck) to go above first gear, and nothing happened. I then attempted to fiddle with the gear shift to see if I could some how "knock" it back into automatic but nothing I tried worked.
The truck shifts easily into reverse, there's no abnormal sound coming from the engine, it drives just fine but refuses to go above first gear. I did discover tho that if I shift the engine quickly into neutral while driving and then down shift back to "D", the engine will shift easily but I assume this is not good on my transmission.
D and 1 light are on
Won't shift past first gear
Reverses just fine
Kicking it to neutral then D will shift the engine
Spilled something on the gear shift
I will try to upload a photo of what's going on with my dashboard lights referring to the "D" and "1" light.
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