On two separate occasions I have been getting a droning like noise from the right side of the engine and when moving the steering wheel it still makes that same sound but changes slightly and even after when the steering was moved back and forth it still wouldn't go away so I let the vehicle run for a short while it slowly and eventually went away.. what would that sound be from?
View 2 RepliesI am struggling to find out any information regarding a droning noise coming from my engine. It generally does it when its just ticking over and disappears when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesThe bearing supporting the half shaft on the vehicle right side makes a noise. I don't hear the noise in the wheel bearings so I believe the noise is isolated to the support bearing.
The SF has 175k mi. The right side cv axle was replaced and it had some looseness in it but it did not eliminate the noise.
Additionally, I don't discount that some noise is generated by the tires as they are not new.
2003 Santa Fe 6cyl ....
My 2002 Buick LeSabre developed a droning/humming noise from the left front related to the motion of the car and not the engine. Also, the check tire pressure warning comes on but tire pressures are ok. My husband replaced the left wheel bearings and the noise was still there. Ditto, the CV axle. Yesterday I noticed the right front tire has a bald spot around the outer edge.
View 5 RepliesI drive a SantaFe 2005 2.7 engine....lately it has a gas smell coming out of the passenger side- front... how is this coming from?
View 1 RepliesThe driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
I opened the door yesterday, got out of the car, then when I got back in the door wouldn't close. I did end up getting it closed but it took a lot of force and there was major resistance. When I got out, there was no resistance top open about a foot opening, just enough to squeeze out. Any more than that and I would have needed a lot of force to get it open.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
View 1 RepliesTruck has 1800kms on her, pretty much brand new but there is an odd clicking noise on the front drivers side wheel when I adjust the steering from left to right and vice versa. Its quiet if I am going straight, but it sounds like there is a linkage loose. Its not too loud or noisy, but having problems with tierods/knuckle assy?
View 1 RepliesI Have a ticking noise coming from the front when I first start up the vehicle and only lasts for 5-10 secs maybe 15 secs tops.. I assume I think its from the engine..
View 15 Replies2005 3.5L 105K. I had the timing belt replaced at 70K. Ever since then I get a winning noise in the right front when turning left and accelerating. Does not happen turning right. I took it into another dealer and he said it could be in the power steering. But why turning left and not right? He didn't think it was the CV joint.
I changed the PS reservoir in case it was a clogged screen. That did not work. Now I am getting a rattle sound on the right with the car in D or R when the car is first started, moving slow or not moving. The sound goes away in N. I don't know if these sounds are related or not. What could be causing these sounds?
My wife and I recently purchased a '01 Santa Fe. We noticed that the gap between the passenger front door panel and dashboard is wider than the gap between the drivers door panel and dashboard. There is road noise that enters from the passenger side door. I believe the door latch is contacting the striker before it is fully closed.
What would be the best way to correct this? Move the striker or the latch? My wife will be spending about three hours a day everyday during the week in this vehicle and the road noise will annoy her until I get it fixed.
I'm driving a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83,000 miles on it.
Had it in the shop (dealer) a couple of weeks back for some work on the transmission. While there, I had the dealer perform the work for Recall 090 (corrosion of rear trailing arm). Since that time, there has been a clicking noise coming from what I believe to be the right rear wheel (it is definitely coming from the right [passenger] side). The noise sounds like metal rubbing up against metal, for lack of a better description. The noise is directly correlated to wheel rotation... the faster I drive the vehicle, the more frequently it occurs; the slower I drive, the less frequently it occurs.
The noise is very noticeable, and I am certain that it did not exist prior to my latest visit to the dealer. I am considering taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic this time, as the dealer repeatedly tells me that they aren't to blame, or I end up leaving the dealership with more problems than I arrived with.
I've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
I have a 2001 Forester with approx. 130k miles 5 speed MT. Sometimes when making a low (5-15mph) speed right hand turn I hear a mild thunk thunk thunk thunk emanating from the front pax corner. The frequency seems linked to the speed. Curiously, I do not hear the noise every time I make a right and I have yet to notice a trend. My partner drives the vehicle more often than I but doesn't make any connections either.
I am relatively certain that we replaced that cv joint/axle this past June.
I have a 2001 Passat that I love. I have taken it to a VW dealer as well as two other dealers to try to diagnose this 'noise' problem. It is a noise that comes and goes, and seems to increase after driver fifteen to twenty miles after start. They thought it was the underneath engine cover but it is now back again. It sounds like a rattle when it is bad, also the passenger can feel the vibration under their feet. It rattles from 3 mph to 35 mph approximately. Can even hear it when coming to a stop.
View 1 Replies2004 Santa Fe, 2.7 L V6. The oil was changed approx 5-7k miles ago (not really sure as I bought it from someone else) and I just changed it today. There's a new knocking noise in the engine. I used normal castrol GTX oil, 5w-30.
I drove it about 20 miles and the noise is still being made, so it's not a circulation problem.
2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise. I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.
My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it. They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms. Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks. I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship. I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.
I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know what to do anymore.
Link to photobucket video of noise : [URL] .....
I have a 2001 expedition 5.4 ltr that has developed a coolant leak. Leak appears to be on top of the engine, in front on passenger side. The area around the front fuel injector (on passenger side) is wet and water is running down and sitting on top of engine (under intake manifold). My first thought was that the heater hose extending vertically from the block hose fitting. I have found no evidence of a leak in the hose but it appears fitting on block may be the source. It has three bolts holding it onto the block. One from the top and two coming up from the bottom. Two of the three area accessible. How to get to the upside down bolt nestled between hose fitting, block and valve cover. It's been a slow leak so far but I know that's not going to last. Runs fine but steams from water on block at stops and when parked.
View 2 Replies2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
We bought our 2010 RX last December--dead of winter--and never noticed this until this week, when the temps are approaching summer, like upper 80s.
The AC (and heater) fan makes a loud droning noise (low frequency, but quite loud) when the "auto" setting turns the fan to one of the two highest settings to cool the car down. Never noticed this until now because the fan never ran at the higher settings in the winter (parked in a heated garage). It makes no difference which vent setting is used, the loud drone from the fan is the same as long as it is running at the higher speeds.
Also, I'm NOT talking about the fans in the seats. This is the big fan behind the dash. Manually decreasing the fan speed reduces the drone, which becomes almost inaudible at lower fan speeds.