Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Drive Stays In 1st Gear
Aug 30, 2015
2003 Santa Fe, 2.7L V6
When placed into Drive, the transaxle (and indicator lights) behave as though the gear selector was in the manual gate and at 1st gear. It seems that no matter what I do (wiggle the selector, disconnect the battery, etc) will bring it out of 1st gear while in D. This issue first occurred about a month ago and it somehow corrected itself. I had hoped that it was a fluke, but it is happening again. Initially, I suspected that it might be a switch or something within the gear selector lever housing in the console, but I've done a bit of searching the webs and it looks like it may be more of a sensor(s) issue.
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Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
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2004 Santa fe- air bag light stays on-
Any trouble shooting protocol to follow?
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2003 Santa Fe 2.7L, 2WD, 118K Mi.
This is a recurring problem. Air Bag light comes on and stays on. Seems to always get triggered by someone sitting in the front passenger seat AND the right side rear passenger seat. First couple of times I was able to clear it by removing the neg. battery terminal for 30 to 45 min. Then it stayed on and didn't clear. I took it to the dealership and they said they cleared it by cycling the connector behind the glovebox. It has been ok for a long time until yesterday night when I had 5 people in the car. Now this morning the "Air Bag" light is on and won't clear. I tried disconnecting the neg. battery terminal because it was easy to do but no luck. I have checked the connectors under the passenger seat thinking someone is bumping a connector with their feet but all connectors seem ok.
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
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I took my 2001 Toyota Celica GT in to have the engine re-built due to a connecting rod that was ready to blow. I have taken it back to them four times. First time not dropping into 4th gear car is automatic stays stuck at 3RPMs. Said it was a transmission problem. I said didn't have one when I came in and not having one on my way out.
Nothing wrong with transmission. Said they fixed whatever they came up with and still car not dropping into 4th gear and my hood shakes so bad I have to put it in neutral to stop the shaking/vibrating at every stop sign and red light. Said they changed out the non-detergent oil for thirty weight and the shaking stopped for a minute.
I told them the third time I brought it back that the hood was still shaking, still not dropping into 4th gear. I checked my oil and fluids a day later and found no oil in my car and the tip of my dip stick was black. No coolant in the car either. I told them that this car needs special spark plugs or it will run like it needs a tuneup with no power. I was pissed.
They said that I had two broken motor mounts and the engine wasn't sitting correctly and that is what was causing the the shake and the 4th gear from dropping down. I was astounded..... They replaced the motor mounts and the spark plugs. When I drove it home it drove great. I even took it out to the river to make sure it was running great because I am selling this car and they knew I was selling it.
My buyer took it to Toyota of Orange and had a test done on the car to the tune of $120.00. It came back with upper and lower power steering hoses leaking and that I needed a new power steering pump. And wait for it.... a new head gasket!!!!
Which tells me they never rebuilt my engine, they just fixed the connecting rod. I took the report into them from Toyota and told them that I want everything fixed on this report and I want my car back in three days or I will take you to court.
I talked to the owner today to ask him when my car would be ready and he said by tonight that he had replaced the head gasket. Which still doesn't tell me if they rebuilt the whole engine. I told him I wanted the power steering pump and hoses fixed as well or I would report them to the Bureau of Automotive Repair. With the engine vibrating and jumping all over the place couldn't that have caused the power steering pump and hoses to be damaged? And am I within my rights to make them fix these at no charge as well?
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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I have a 2003 3.5 liter, AWD and I'm attempting to remove and replace the drive axle on the passenger side. I have the one end out of the hub, but the transmission end will not come out. I removed the bolts holding the bearing plate, and have been trying to pry out the axle with no luck.
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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My 2003 Santa Fe makes a grumbling noise when first started, and put into drive or reverse. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. The noise disappears when the drive train has warmed up.
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2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
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So I own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7. I am the fourth owner and currently there is 168k miles on the vehicle. I purchased the car with around 110k miles on it and have had it for nearly 5 years now.
Aside from general maintenance I have never had a single issue with it, until last weekend. On the way back home from a road trip I began to notice a whining sound, and then very abruptly the car shook and I lost control of the vehicle and had to pull over on the shoulder. I was on the highway and was VERY fortunate to not have gotten into an accident.
After inspecting carefully I discovered my 4WD Drive Shaft was literally hanging by a thread. The knuckles were ruined, and in the process my Transfer Case and Exhaust System were all severely damaged.
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2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
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I have a 2004 Santa fe and if it is raining or if I drive through a puddle of water, my steering is locking up, what may be causing it? I am afraid it will cause me to wreck.
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Once warmed up, while sitting at a stop in Drive, there is what feels like an engine stumble every so often. Good guess is every 45-60 seconds, so it only happens once, maybe twice at long stops. There is a sudden change in pitch the engine, and the car - for lack of a better term - shudders. The thing I have noticed is that when it does this there is no indication anything has happened with the tachometer - RPMs hold perfectly steady. Additionally, there is no shudder when sitting in park or neutral, only drive.
I initially thought it might be an ignition fault, so when I replaced the balance shaft belt I also replaced the crank sensor. No change in behavior. I did some googling, which suggested the issue might be related to the EGR not closing properly. I changed all the vacuum hoses and removed the switching solenoid to test - it seems to be doing its job. I have not removed or inspected the EGR valve itself. However, because there is no symptom in engine speed and the sensation doesn't happen in park or neutral and only happens when warm, I am starting to suspect the transmission itself is the culprit - I can imagine if the torque converter quickly engaged and disengaged - and a little power made it to the wheels - the same result would happen.
There is nothing else odd about the engine or transmission. No codes. Runs like a top. Transmission always shifts perfectly. Fluid was changed two years ago, about 15,000 miles. What came out looked good as well. I'm okay with replacing EGR components, but I don't want to throw money at the problem unnecessarily. Maybe try driving around with the EGR vacuum hose pinched off or disconnected?
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Recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
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2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
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I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
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