Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Delay Shifting Between Gears
Sep 15, 2011
Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
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A few weeks ago, my transmission (automatic) started rumbling while shifting from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear. Shakes the whole car, like you're driving over a rumble strip. Only when the engine is hot. I read online that I should get my transmission flushed and replace the fluid, but should I be expecting the thing to go or is this a normal hiccup for the Santa Fe?
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2006 GX470, ~65k mi. When shifting from P to R, P to D, or R to D, the transmission often (but not always) seems to have to think about it a while. When it shifts fine it takes about 1sec for the transmission to change gears. When it's being cranky it takes ~4secs. There are no other symptoms.
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I hear a knock once in a while when starting my 2004 2.7 V6 Santa Fe and sometimes when shifting gears. I also hear it when going over rough rough, bumps, tracks etc... I'm thinking motor mounts 152k on the car.
My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.
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I have a 2005 2.5 vw jetta.
It has 150,000 miles....the cars been working just fine untill DEC of last year. I had the dealer check the transmission fluid and they said it was low....so they flushed and refilled the transmission oil...they didnt see any metal but that didnt fix the problem.....
Now i have the car not shifting correctly ....theres a delay when shifting in all gears but it is intermittent, sometimes it shifts hard and sometimes you can just baby the throttle and it wont shift as hard.....once on the freeway the car runs fine......but when coming to a stop you can feel the downshifting.....
I figured it has something to do with the valve body....my concern is the dealerships have quoted me 2000$ to replace the valve-body....the cars paid for and was wondering if i should just move onto a different jetta or fix this one?
If i fix the valve body will this jetta have the same issue later? Also i do have the vacuum pump leaking engine oil....not much can this be fixed while doing the valve body job???
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About a month ago, the Service Engine Light (CEL) came on and as a result there was a very slight delay in shifting and the Turbo did not engage at all. I brought it to the dealership for scanning. Error codes read as per work order:
P2562: Turbocharger Boost control Position sensor 'A' circuit
P2563: Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor 'A' Circuit range/performance
"The tech tested the pins and wires from the sensor to the PCM and all tested fine." Concluded sensor was faulty and ordered replacement part.
Once part was in, they performed the work to replace the sensor, test drove it and pronounced okay. By that same evening, the SEL came back on and the same symptoms developed. Brought it back the next morning and the same error codes came up. My dealership escalated the issue to the engineers with Hyundai and a couple of days later they replied with a possible solution.
From work order following:
"As per RO performed 11-20-007 Sonata Turbo EWGA inspection and adjustment form DTC P2562. Vehicle had under 4.1 V, adjusted rod from waste gate accordingly and road tested. Engine light did not come back on and vehicle operating normally".
I've waited a few days under normal driving conditions before posting and can state the the SEL has not returned and vehicle does indeed seem to be back to normal.
Apparently these symptoms are known for the 2.0T in the Sonata (i haven't verified this) which led the engineers to suggest checking the waste gate.
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My car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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The gear shifter in my auto trans 05 Elantra is really stiff when shifting different gears. I was running fine as I went to work and back today with no problems. After I got back from work, the car was off for 30-40 mins. Then I went back and started the car and the gear shifter was stiff but still shiftable. I checked under the car to and fluid leaks but didn't see anything. What may be the issue here?
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I hear a weird humming sound when I press the gas pedal.it goes away when I press hard. Also it sounds while shifting gears...
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I made a mistake, detached TPS from throttle, thought it was purge valve, then I put it back and today my car won't change gears, I messed something up, never had problems with my transmission. Santa fe 2003 3.5 ....
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My buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
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The wife was out in the Fe yesterday(2001 2.7 V6 Auto AWD) running at highway speed 80kmh before pulling up to a junction, when she pulled off again then the car came to a halt and lost all drive with engine still running ok. Luckily wife has the sense to switch it off. Tow trucked it home after she saw a puddle of tranny fluid under the car.
Any way it turned out one of the transmission hoses running from the cooler (right hand side hose that runs under radiator) managed to blow off the metal pipe.. don't know how, oem clamp was on and hose didn't split just came off! Needless to say this resulted in the tranny fluid quickly being emptied all over the engine bay and no gears.
So ive re attached the hose with new clamp and have drained what fluid was left in the pan..about 1 liter, and need to fill it up now and find out if it still works ok.
Now the manual says it needs 8.9ltr for a full fill but the question is will it of emptied the torque convertor as well so its completely empty or will it just of blown out the contents of the pan before stopping then just needing half fill.
What could cause a hose to blow off, they don't run at that high pressure normally, average hose pressure is normally 35-55psi from what I can find out so shouldn't blow off that easy should it.
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My 2004 4 cyl Santa Fe the check engine light came on now it jerks in all gears kinda like its missing.
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Codes currently on ecm: P0134, P2125, P1174, P0735 My 2003 Santa Fe 2wd 3.5l with 160,000 miles was driving fine, then all the sudden whenever I reach about 3500 rpms there's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from near or in the automatic transmission. As for the codes: P0134- I just replaced the o2 sensor with an oem part from autozone, so not sure why that's popping up. The connections look fine. P2125 and P1174- I'm trying to figure out whether the accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor needs to be replaced. I have a multimeter but don't know if that will be able to tell me which one is out. The P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio and grinding noise at 3500 rpms is what I am mostly worried about though. Could a transmission flush work with that?
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I have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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I purchased an 04 X-Type with 53k about a year ago. Nice car, great ride and style. There is one thing, though, that annoys me. It seems to shift late or shift awkwardly as the car accelerates. When I depress the accelerator at moderate speed (20- 35 mph or so), the car shifts but seems to delay (late shift). It's not a kick- just an awkward shift. Is this a characteristic of this model? No other issues. Solid car.
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I have a 1999 Mazda 626. Lately, it seems to shift into 2nd gear much too late - ~5000 rpm - regardless of acceleration. Is there a good place to start diagnosing this problem? I've heard everything from new tranny to neutral safety switch.
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My car is having delayed shifting (2.0t Auto) when shifting from Park to Drive. Also, whenever im slowing down to turn right or left, and press the gas, it seems to lurch forwars, as it is still downshifting, which seems to be really delayed. Im hoping its the Valve Body since its covered under extended warranty until October, and want to get this taken care of before I trade this piece of crap in for a Ford or Honda. Its in the shop (won't let VW touch it since the dealer screwed up several times), and was wondering if this sounds like an issue of the Valve Body...
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My 2005 Santa Fe just started "slamming" while up shifting. It seems to be happening between 2nd and 3rd. The fluid is at the correct level and it isn't bad looking or smelling. I've seen postings that say to disconnect the battery to make the controller relearn...that didn't resolve the problem. I just don't want to put a bunch of money into a car that isn't worth it.
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