Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Crank With No Start In Cold Temps
Jan 25, 2014
I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now In Cold Temps -20 Celsius Or Colder... dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms....
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2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
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My 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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2001 Santa Fe, 2.4L DOHC engine, 129,000 miles
I bought the vehicle knowing that it was not running well. It idled quite smoothly but had no power on acceleration but was able drive it home at ~30mph. Never had a timing belt change so I foolishly fixed that before I solved the low power problem. Timing belt change went OK and then I discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked - HUGE crack. Fixed that and installed new cat at the same time. Checked compression and read consistent 127-129 across 4 cylinders. Also installed new before and after O2 sensors at this time. Started her up and sounds good, idles smooth. Hooked the scanner up and read P0115 (something about engine coolant temperature circuit), so I cleared it thinking it must have overheated in the past and that is how the E-manifold cracked.
P0115 never returned.
I have no codes showing now however it appears to be running in open loop and scanner shows "open loop due to insufficient engine temperature" but engine temperature is reading 200 deg F. Also the O2 sensors are not being read, see attached readout.
At this point I am stumped and am thinking I need to check fuel pressure or maybe injectors are clogged. But why would it be running in open loop?
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Long time 2004 Santa Fe owner here (LX 3.5 liter):
I have an issue where after a cold start the engines idles a little higher than I'm normally used to. I think it idles at sub-1000 RPM, but now it's more like 1200-1500 RPM. Adding to this it seems to vibrate/throb every 2-3 seconds. It's very slight and unless you've been driving the car for a while you'd probably wouldn't notice the change. I'm used to a steady idling, so this pulsating sensation is new to me. Once I kick it into drive the car is perfectly fine, idles at 500-600 RPM at stop lights, etc., and starting it up after running errands after a few hours in the store yields no problems either. It only happens after a really cold start, say 8 hours or so.
I took it to the shop, all they could find was a slightly under-voltaged battery which they replaced, but the issue still occurs. The only thing I remember doing different around the time frame of when this started happening was add STP Multi-Purpose treatment into the gas tank. I can't imagine a fuel additive having such a dramatic impact though, but who knows.
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
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I have an issue for the last couple of years. I drive a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 168,000 km's on it. the problem I am having only happens on any cold day and never above zero celcius and when I start the vehicle on a cold day and go for a short trip to the store run in for about 5-10 minutes and I come back out and it won't start, there is lots of power but it wont roll over at all but after trying many times it will eventually start and there is no CEL showing and I have never plugged it in on a cold day and as cold as the canadian winters get here its been down to as low as -40 in the morning and no problems at all, a little roll and a groan and away she goes which is typical in our cold climates.
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I bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
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I own 2005 Santa Fe. Vehicle is a 3.5l V6. 90,000 miles. Transmission flushed few months ago. Few weeks ago I notice that transmission jump hard and bucked on cold start then smooth out once the engine warm up. Is it normal? if not what could be a problem.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I remove the battery of my Santa Fe 2005, cleaned cable, added grease, placed a brand new battery, reconnected the cables. But, when I tried to start nothing happens. The Radio, lamps, etc.. are working, so the car is powered, but no cranking, nothing.... I tried to reset ECU by disconnecting the battery cables for a while to empty the condensator. But it does not work. I also tried to connect the batteries NEG and POS poles together to reset the ECU but no success... I need my car to work....
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe v6 3.5 L engine. sometimes when I go to crank it I get nothing but clicks. We've tested the battery, starter and alternator and all 3 are fine. We replaced the solenoid but it still isn't working. My husband was able to get it started one time by beating on something (starter) under the car. This has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Now it's not starting at all.
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I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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This had occurred twice thus far in the past 6 months.
2004 Santa Fe 3.8L Automatic:
I had stopped the car at a store several months back, got back in the car after about an hour and I go to turn the key and the motor will not crank at all. Battery was fine, lights all worked, etc. After about ten minutes of fiddling with the shift it finally cranked and started without issue. Tonight I had stopped, topped off the tank (mistake I am sure) and tried to leave the gas station, again, no crank (and I forgot my cell phone at home!).
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with the shifter thinking a lock switch issue it again finally cranked over and started right up! Sounds like a couple of isolated incidents, however what may be the causes?
The first time I don't recall if I had gotten fuel or not. I did travel a ways afterward if I indeed had. This time I could not get it to crank right at the pumps.
Could this indeed be the purge valve issue I have heard about on these causing it not to even crank?
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I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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It has only happened 2 times so far. I understand it's normal when it's really cold outside. But it's still warm here. I booked an appointment with dealer next week but I want to knowledge myself before going. Can this be battery? Or starter? I remember there's a common problem on my model that a oil leak will damage the starter. Will that cause this symptom?
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So for the last few weeks our 2007 3.3L V6 GL is having trouble starting (extended crank). Sometimes it's fine, but other times the engine just turns, so it takes 2 or 3 tries to get it to start.
Initially this seems like a fuel filter issue to me, but these fuel filters are "unserviceable", which I believe means they shouldn't ever have to be replaced (right?). I just had a servicing done at Midas, and they weren't able to tell me what the problem was.
The vehicle has 94k kms (58k miles) on it.
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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