Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Coolant Drip From Small Plastic Tube On Firewall Inside Engine Bay Area
Nov 1, 2011
I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
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Lately I have been noticing a very small drip of coolant on the driveway under the water pump. Most would assume this to be coming from the water pump, right? Problem I have, is I can drive the car say 10-15 miles, return the car to it's parking area on the drive (previous spot cleaned and dried) and monitor thru out the day, some 10-12 hours, NO DRIP! I can forget about it, return the following morning only to see it has dripped overnight! I have visually inspected the coolant elbows at the tensioner and dry as a bone. I see no damp areas near the water pump pulley area. You might ask if the upper and LIM work has ever been done and the answer is yes, the local Buick dealership did that a few years back.
The coolant levels rise and lower normally depending on engine temp and it's hard to see any loss of coolant when looking at the reservoir when cold. I have read there is a small weep hole near the output shaft of the water pump which allows a release of coolant to protect the bearings of the water pump. Could this be where the coolant is coming from? I wouldn't mind replacing the water pump and even the coolant elbows while I have every thing apart, but I would hate to do that only to find it was something else, maybe an easier fix!
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1999 Ford Windstar started overheating. I discovered coolant leaking from a small metal tube coming out the top of the rear right (drivers side) of the engine. There are two similar small tubes. This one appears to be corroded through. I tried to pull it off, but if felt like it would break off.It's pretty far back and somewhat difficult to access. I'm wondering if this can easily be replaced and if so, how would I go about it.
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Have a 2015 King Ranch with 72k miles. I noticed today a small drip of coolant coming from the corner of the radiator near the drain valve.
The truck is deleted however before it was deleted I did purchase an extended warranty through Flood Ford. What are the chances they will deny a warranty claim on this because of the dpf and egr delete?
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So the wife's 08 Mountaineer 4.6 likes coolant. None in the crank case. I suspect head gasket, since I can smell it a bit in the exhaust, but I have also noticed steam coming from the drivers side firewall area, but can't see anything. If it is head gaskets, am I pulling the engine? If I have to pull the engine.
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2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
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I've got a case of dash rattle. I hit a small bump and I hear a small but plasticky rattle sound from (I think) the center of my plasticky dash. IT BUGS ME!
I wonder how I'd be letting the dealer tear apart my dash. The car has been on the road a full 2 months... First new car with dash rattle.
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I've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
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My 2001 Santa Fe had a slow PS leak for over a year which I dealt with just by adding fluid several times a year. Then I let the car sit for a few months while I saved up for input/output sensors. I just replaced those and discovered that the PS leak is noticeably worse.
I searched the forums and found that the most common problem is a clogged reservoir screen, resulting in fluid backup that sprays the engine bay. I don't think that's the problem. The engine bay is dry and both reservoir hoses are dry. The spot where I've found the most wetness is closer to the firewall and much lower than the reservoir but I need identifying it.
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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Quick question, my 2007 Santa Fe with 3.3 has developed a small coolant leak. Every so often, I see a few drops on the garage floor and every 6 months or so I need to fill the reservoir with new coolant. So I took it in last Friday at a Hyundai dealership and he said that I need a new head gasket.
So my question is, is that correct? I did a search and most say that if you need a new head gasket, coolant would have leaked into the engine and oil.
When I changed the oil back in June, I don't recall seeing any foam or-or any indication that something is wrong with the oil. Even yesterday, I open up the oil cap and pull the dipstick, every looks normal. I assumed that not all head gasket problems lead to coolant in the oil?
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Was servicing my vehicle today and this tube snapped in half. Called ford, dont have it since its an 'obsolete' legacy part.
Tried 1aauto, rock auto, both dont have it.
Am I out of luck? is there an alternative? can I just use a rubber hose instead to connect the pcv valve to the other end part?
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I have an 04 SF with about 160K on it. Normally, the engine temp is just under the mid mark. Yesterday, on my drive home, the temp climbed to just under the redline, then declined to slightly above the mid mark, repeating this process several times. Each cycle took about 2-3 minutes. I was driving uphill at 20-30 mph.
I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor had gone bad. But I checked the OBD codes and found nothing there referring to the sensor. This morning, I let it idle in the drive, and the radiator fan turned on after the engine warmed. Coolant was a little low (there seems to be a slight leak somewhere), and I added some.
What could cause the temp to cycle up and down like that?
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I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
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2011 250 CC FX4 LARIAT 6.7l Just had the oil changed on Friday and I noticed a couple oily spots in the driveway. Crawled under to investigate and there is a slow drip coming off the plastic oil plug. Called the service center and they said the seals on those plugs fail pretty regular. What was done to eliminate this issue?
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Directly under the body in the center, about 2 feet in from the rear, I noticed a small drip leak. There was a weak rubber plug that I yanked out and all of a sudden, about half a gallon of a water like substance poured out. It appears that the spare tire compartment was full of water. What could of caused this???
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 standard. It's been great with very little need for repairs beyond routine maintenance. In the last two weeks it has started an odd squealing that I can't pin point.
While driving along all of a sudden a squealing sound will emanate from what seems like the driver's side firewall area. Acceleration or braking does not seem to change it, nor does adjusting the speed of the hot air blower up or down.
It doesn't sound like a wheel scraping or anything like that. The best way I can describe it is it sounds like what happens if a speed-o-meter cable needs lubricated (but of course there is none of this vehicle).
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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I have a 2012 Ford Supercrew, 6.5 FT bed, Ecoboost that I got in April. About two weeks after I got it, someone ran a two way stop right out in front of me and I hit them on my drivers side front. Damage pretty minimal considering their car was totaled. I had my truck back from the body shop about two weeks later. Everything was great.
About 3 weeks after I had gotten my truck back, I began to notice a strange noise that sounded almost like someone was opening a door really slow. (more of a rapid popping sound than a high pitched squeak) It only happened on acceleration and the sound was coming from the passenger side right up next to the firewall. I figured it was something that wasnt tightened correctly from the body work. I took it to Ford for warranty work and told them this story...they werent concerned about the wreck. They suspected suspension...I agreed this was probable.
They checked and tore down the whole front suspension on the passenger side. They ended up replacing that whole side with brand new parts, new shock, upper lower control arms, new coil, gaskets, etc. Problem was still not fixed.
I took it back to the body shop where it was worked on and had the foreman ride with me so he could listen to noise. He said that he believed it was the suspension as well. He said that most of the bushings that sit on top of the coil come from the factory sort of dry...he suggested breaking it down and putting teflon grease between the bushing and the top of the coil tower that mounts to the frame. He said he has had luck with that.
Long story short, the driver side began doing the same thing. I took it back to Ford and they agreed to try what the body shop foreman had told me. Still no luck!
My front suspension has been replaced and broken completely down three times, tightened back up to factory specs, and re-aligned...and still no fix!
It sounds like a truck with 250,000 miles when I first accelerate, and I can still here it a cruising speeds when I hit bumps (air has to be off to hear it well)...
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