I have a '03 V6 3.5 Santa Fe. The clutch on the AC compressor went out and was making a loud racket. When I was pulling the compressor off I noticed the wire harness connection to the compressor was damaged. Either by me or previous change.
So the end of the harness on the car side is damaged. Can a new one be purchased and spliced? I cannot see where it goes to see if it can be replaced.
Recently I began hearing noise such as a rattle on the right front of the vehicle. It is a 2003 SF 2.7L front wheel drive with almost 180k mi. At first I thought the noise was from the Serp belt tensioner. Now I believe it originates from the compressor clutch.
Does the a/c clutch have a history with its bearings ? Is the clutch replaceable on the compressor or is this a single unit replacement ?
I got a call from the wife at work telling me the vehicle was making a loud noise when being driven. I told her it was a bit hard for me to diagnose since I was at work and to leave it parked till I got home. She really had to go out so she decided to drive it a short distance and come home.
I got home and discovered the drivers side spring was sitting on top of the inside of the front tire. The spring had done a superb machining job of the tire tread to the point I was amazed that the tire still held air. Anyway long story short the beast is in the shop having both front springs and struts,tires etc. being replaced. The spring actually broke.
I just bring this to the group as I did a search on google and this is not an uncommon, occurrence on these santys. We /she are just lucky this happened at a low rate of speed,as a highway speed incident like this would not have been pretty.
Oh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
Pretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
View 4 RepliesThe A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 Replies Yesterday evening I started up my 2008 variant 3.6 4motion after it had been sitting for about 24 hours. It started up right away but immediately started making a clanging racket that sounded just like an old Mercedes Diesel that needs a tuneup. It was such a loud and odd noise that at first I thought it was another car or truck pulled up next to me!
After about 5-10 seconds it settled down and idled normally--no warning lights, no leaks, no performance issues. I took it on a ~7 mile mixed freeway and surface streets drive with A/C off and on and it ran like a champ, then it sat again for a couple of hours before the return trip and started up & got us home with no problem.
It definitely wasn't the normal injector noise and it wasn't the emissions SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump either. Since it's a 2008 (and since it's still running) I'm ruling out the oil pump bolt. The accessory v-belt and tensioner look fine and engine oil level/pressure are good, too.
We're experiencing our first real hot weather of the summer (low 90s) and it had been baking in the sun all day, so I'm wondering if the temperature caused pinging on startup before the ECU adapted?
Today, of course, it was normal. Have any other 3.6 drivers ever had this happen?
AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
View 2 RepliesNew to the prius world! I recently purchased a 06 prius with 185k. Gas engine needed to be replaced so I recently replaced it. Had code of engine failed to start. Now got replacement engine in and has p0300 and p0303 and p0304. Weird thing is new plugs. Swapped coils and injectors with same results. To me it sounds like a racket in the transmission. The noise is not consistent at all. Very loud and odd. Also inside the car when I put it in drive or neutral a warning light comes up and says shift to park batteries wont charge while in neutral.
View 17 RepliesMy air con is not working, it started making an oscillating sound and not getting cold, which I think is the compressor. Garage couldn't find any leaks using a dye. So I asked my mechanic to change it. The generic part was a little over 300 but when he went to fit it it had the wrong number of mounting holes. Think he said it had three instead of the four from the original part? So he was not sure it was a suitable part, so didn't fit it. Because in the UK the CM model started selling in 2006 not 2007 it's possible he got confused and got a part for the older model? The car is definitely a CM!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
View 2 RepliesI charged my AC a few weeks ago. After I added oil it began to make noise. Like metal on metal or a bad bearing. Could be the clutch pulley, bad bearing from what I've read. I don't want to replace it, nor do I want to spend the time and money putting in a bypass pully. I'd like to simply bypass the AC compressor by putting a shorter belt on. Problem is I can't seem to find any clear info on how and what size belt to use. I see a few saying it can be done and one saying it can't. Also, is the 2.4 the same as the 3.0 in regards to the belt diagram?I need to fix this asap, before it seizes up and I lose the belt or damage other stuff.
View 19 RepliesI'm driving a 2002 Santa Fe (4WD, 6-cyl) without AC. The problem is that the compressor is dead and needs to be replaced - it was diagnosed by both a Hyundai dealership and a local repair shop. I understand that when replacing the compressor, you want to replace the receiver/drier and expansion valve and clean the system to remove any metal shards in circulation. What is unclear is whether or not the condenser also needs to be replaced. This is complicated by the fact that the receiver/drier is physically a part of the condenser. While shopping around, some repair shops said I would have to replace the condenser as well, and others did not.
My questions are these:
- Can I just have the desiccant bag inside the drier replaced, or do I need to replace the entire condenser + receiver/drier unit?
- If replacing just the desiccant bag is an option, is it still smarter to replace the condenser as well in case there is compressor debris lodged in there that can't be flushed?
I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
View 8 Replies03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
View 12 RepliesMy mother in law has a Santa Fe 2004 with a ~2.4. The AC compressor quit working over the winter. The AC compressor does not react to turning on the AC button.
I checked the fuses. I also tried changing out the AC relay with another one and it still didn't respond. The relay also didn't sound as though it was clicking over. The AC indiacator light is working.
Could it be the actual button has failed or is there a way to check if the button is functioning?
How does the compressor know to engage? Is there a place I can test 12v at the compressor?
2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
So... My car started making a loud thud noise... Thought I blew a tire...sounded similar... But I see nothing wrong... Not sure where to tow it to....
View 19 RepliesI have recently purchased a 2003 Santa Fe 2.7 Auto and the air conditioning was not working. I noticed the compressor was not spinning so plugged a can of R134a into the low pressure port and noticed it had virtually no pressure. As per the instructions I filled the system until the compressor kicked in then filled it to near the optimum pressure (according to the temperature chart) of 45psi (it was probably nearer 40 as the can was running out).
The A/C was then blowing cold. However a few hours later when I tried it again, the compressor wouldn't engage. I haven't checked the pressure again yet as it was getting late but before I start looking into things I wanted to ask here if there are any particular common issues? I know on a Ford I had a few years ago I had to buy a smaller set of shims for the A/C clutch plate, is this the same with the Santa Fe?
I've read a bit about some connectors or switches but couldn't find much info. What would cause the compressor clutch to not engage when the A/C works well when it is engaged? As I say the pressure was about 40psi but I will check it again tomorrow, could it be it is a bit too low?