Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Check Engine Warning Do Not Turn On
Nov 9, 2016
Recently I changed the spark plug and I made a mistake crossing the spark plug wires. here I noticed that the check engine warning don't turn on.
Also I had other problem with idle air valve and also the check engine warning don't turn on.
The light is working fine because when I acct the key it is turning on. The problem is detecting a fail it don't turning on.
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How can i turn off check engine light (hyundai santa fe 2003 3.5) by fuse ? I do not have any code scanner.
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I've just bought a 2.0D Santa Fe (I am UK based) and when I turn on the ignition the warning lights light up and then go off - which I believe is the light check.
However, the transmission warning light does not come on during this check period. Is there an easy way to test this? I'd like to know when the 4WD kicks in or there is a problem but don't know if there's a bulb fault or not.
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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So I was driving for a couple of hours today in my recently acquired 2001 Prius, when the red warning triangle and the check engine lights came on. The car seemed to still drive fine (70 ish mph cruising). HV Battery? P3000 P3020 Error codes.....
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I have a problem with my 2002 prius. I was driving home from work when all of a sudden my Hybrid Warning light came on with the check engine light on. On the screen, it gives me a (PS, Battery, and ! ) and the "!" was the one lighting up. The engine was roughing up sounds like it was gonna stop itself so I pulled over to the side and it turned off by itself without me doing anything except to put it on park. Then, i took out my keys and tried restarting it and all i heard was the "Ready" beep but not the engine and it won't move when i step on the pedal. After waiting for 10 mins., i tried restarting it and it worked i drove away and got home safely with all the warning lights i mentioned earlier still on. (Note: i was driving w/ the A/C on because it was hot outside..around 90s, also it was not overheating nor it was any battery problem because all the electrical were working properly.)
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This afternoon, after driving about 150 miles, I came home and shut off my 2001 Prius. It was sitting for about 20 minutes before I turned it back on to drive off. Almost immediately, the hybrid warning light came on on the MFD, the red exclamation mark light illuminated, as well as the check engine light, and the motor shut off. I popped the hood, and could hear a high pitched squeal coming from near the inverter. I called my dealer to ask the service department what I should do, and they just told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I live over an hour away, so I don't want to bring it there if I can avoid it. I then shut it off and let it sit for a few hours.
After reading about the possibility of the auxiliary battery being bad, I went and turned the Prius on, and then shut it off several times to reset the hybrid warning light (I had to do so in order to access the aux battery information through the MFD). It turned on without incident, and shut off fine, and after being reset the hybrid warning light shut off, as well as the red triangle light. Then, I went through the process of pulling up the battery voltage information through the MFD.
With the car off, and the lights and fans off, the battery voltage read about 10.0-10.5 V. With the lights and fan on, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 V. After getting those readings, I drove it down the road a little ways, just going about 20 mph. It seemed to work fine. The check engine light is still illuminated. With the motor running, the voltage reading was 13.2 V, and then when I got back from my test drive and shut it off, the voltage hovered at 10.6 V with the lights and fan on.
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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I recently purchased a 3.5 V6 Santa fe. The Check engine light keeps going on. I took it to a few shops and I am getting the same code. It is the O2 sensor in bank one. (I think the the code was po170.) The light keeps going on and off. All I can find are the same problems with different Santa Fe engines (2.7, etc. )... My SUV has 100,050 miles on it.
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I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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I have A 2001 Santa Fe. The check engine light came on about 3 weeks ago and the car was still running fine up until the last few days it felt a little sluggish. Today I got a little muffled backfire noise. It was like a putting noise if I pushed on the gas to hard to speed up. The car has 95,000 miles on it.The car starts up with no problems and doesn't stall. Its A 6 cylinder All wheel drive vehicle.
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Check engine light on, car stalled once. Pulling code p0320 "Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction." Tachometer works intermittently. Where do I start?
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Recently got check engine light fault code p0320
2005 3.5 with 172k miles
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I have a 2002 SF GLS/LX (?) with 2.7 L V6 2WD (60,000 miles) and it started to apply the ABS brakes in a random manner. Found out it was caused by a broken front wheel tone ring. So, I pulled the ABS fuse under the dash and it stopped the brake problem. Drove it today to pick up some wood and now the check engine light has come on.
My neighbor has an OBD scanner and he plugged it in and said I have a P0501 code and a P1529 code, but he didn't know what they meant. What they mean and are they related to me pulling the fuse under the dash? Did I pull the wrong fuse? Is there another fuse somewhere that I should have pulled?
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My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
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I have 01 passat, it runs fine, except check engine light is on. When I turn AC on the engine beginnings to work funny, RPMs jumping up and down, feel like engine doesn't get enough air (or gets too much). I was told to replace ignition coils. I replaced them all but the problem didn't go away. Even actually one of the coils pups up a little bit all the time.
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I jump started my santafe becouse the battery was weak. After it started the check engine light on the dashboard came on and it stays on. What could the problem be.
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L the check engine light is on and says about the evap canister solenoid. I am trying to located it but I can't find it. So, where would it be located at so I can take it apart and where is the Canister located as well...
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
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