Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Check Engine Light Go On And Off With P0700 And P0741 Codes
Sep 18, 2015
I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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I am the second owner of a 97 Cherokee 4.0 2wd. My overdrive works now and then. my check engine light is on. I had it scanned it throws 2 codes. p0700 and p0705. It has 147k and we already replaced the entire cooling system including flushing the engine and system thoroughly . Now it has been sitting for nearly 2yrs. just not sure what direction to go.
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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I have a 2002 SF GLS/LX (?) with 2.7 L V6 2WD (60,000 miles) and it started to apply the ABS brakes in a random manner. Found out it was caused by a broken front wheel tone ring. So, I pulled the ABS fuse under the dash and it stopped the brake problem. Drove it today to pick up some wood and now the check engine light has come on.
My neighbor has an OBD scanner and he plugged it in and said I have a P0501 code and a P1529 code, but he didn't know what they meant. What they mean and are they related to me pulling the fuse under the dash? Did I pull the wrong fuse? Is there another fuse somewhere that I should have pulled?
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Yesterday afternoon the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on in our '97 Town & Country (3.8L engine). A few minutes later (while I headed to Autozone to get the code read) the light went out. They were still able to retrieve 2 codes: P0700 and P1775. Internet searches suggest a possible bad solenoid pack for the transmission.
More background: The van has 161,000 miles, and the original owners got the transmission replaced at 40,000 miles under warranty (4 speed automatic). The transmission fluid was replaced (pan drop method) at about 153,000 miles and at 112,000 miles, etc., with Chrysler ATF +4 fluid. The van got new plugs and wires about 15,000 miles ago. (It also got a new radiator and hoses yesterday morning which I think is unrelated.) Another possible clue: On long trips sometimes the 2nd transmission shift will become slightly rough but it still shifts and after it has rested everything returns to normal. This occasional shifting issue has been going on for over 5 years and again when it manifests itself it is very slight.
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2004 Acura MDX, check engine light came on. Got code checked: P0741, supposed to be switch or torque converter. My mechanic won't do transmission work, so took to dealer. They drained fluid, no metal shavings. Now they want to replace transmission, said it has internal damage. It wasn't running badly, a little slippage here and there. Don't think it really needs replaced.
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I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Matrix new, and it now has 41,800-something miles on it. At 38K miles the check engine light came on while I was on vacation out of state. The nearest Toyota dealer checked it out, told me the check engine light code was P0741 - problem with the torque converter - but they didn't see any obvious problem and the car drove fine for them and for me. They turned the light off but it went back on before very long. The car has now been to 2 different Toyota dealerships near my home because the check engine light keeps turning on. They also report seeing the same code, also seeing nothing obviously amiss,and tell me I need my transmission replaced. This seems preposterous to me for such a low mileage Toyota.
In December, when the check engine light went on again, I discovered it would turn off if I filled the car with gas. It still comes back on; if I either fill the car with gas, or simply open and close the gas cap, the check engine light will turn off after 3 - 4 trips with the car. What does the gas cap have to do with the torque converter?
What's really weird is that the light always comes on under the same conditions. Most of my driving is short trips, a couple of miles in town at around 30 mph. The light never comes on during "town" driving. My highway driving consists of trips of about 1 hour; parking for an hour or two; then returning home -- again, about an hour's drive. The check engine light always comes on when I'm doing highway driving on the trip home. I've clocked the mileage for the last 3 times the light came on. It came on after highway driving a total of 48, 51, and 48 miles, respectively.
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My 2008 just showed the light at 108,000 kms. Its a long drive to the dealers. My old Hondas would flash a code number in the instrument cluster if I shorted out a pin under the dash. Is there a way to do this with the Fe?
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I have been having this same problem over and over again. Check engine light comes on with P2127 and P2106 codes. 1st time they said they needed to flash the computer. Worked fine for maybe 6 months and then again. While this is happening you cant go over 2500 rmp with it floored and takes forever to get up to 60-80 kph which is the fastest it will go. Sometimes after starting stopping 5-8 times it will be fine. The second time they replaced the gas pedal because the sensor was deemed bad. Now about 8 months later here up it comes again. This time I was pulling my boat and I thought I wasn't going to make it up the hill. I don't trust this car anymore especially for long trips. So anyway they updated the computer again, and then 4 days later up it comes again. Also inner tie rod ends I have replaced 3, just so you know I only have 52000 kms on this 2008.
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2 error codes? Car runs fine - nothing seems wrong - the check engine light went on, so I pulled out the scanner which came up with the 2 codes: P0021 and P0022.
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My wifes 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3 has had a check engine light going on a year now. Car has about 122k on it now. Scanned codes about 6 months ago and had a fuel system lean code. Did some reading and ended up replacing the purge valve. The CEL stayed off til the end of the drive cycle and came right back. I have noticed when you fill the car up there is a real strong smell of gas but the car always starts right up. It now has a P0171 Fuel system too lean (b1) and P2187 Fuel system too lean at idle. Where to start. Don't have much background with hyundai. Also the ESC off light comes on randomly and goes off. Doesn't happen real frequently though.
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I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
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Have an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
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CEL came on today and when I ran the codes I got P0741. Torque converter CKT Performance or Stuck Off. What the next steps are.
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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I just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
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How can i turn off check engine light (hyundai santa fe 2003 3.5) by fuse ? I do not have any code scanner.
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