Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Changed Alternator - Car Bucking And Popping
Apr 16, 2014
I just changed the alternator in my 02 2.7l and now it is acting like it's not charging the battery. It's bucking and popping like before I changed it. I had to jump the battery and it drove fine for a while then I lost all power and no dash lights or anything. All the warning lights came on also. The headlights were dim and the car was bogging and bucking. I checked the ground and the battery is about 2 years old. Tomorrow I am going to get the battery checked and scan for codes. I also just replaced the starter a month ago. What could be the cause of this?
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
I've got a 2006 2.4L manual trans - runs great, except every once in a while, at low r.p.m., it surges or bucks. Sometimes, I press the gas and not much happens for a second then it takes off.
Other - much more rare - times it bucks like a jackrabbit a few times until I let off the gas, start over, and it accelerates fine. And most randomly of all, the idle seems erratic - not rough or jumping all over the place, but not always at the exact same r.p.m. Or if I come to a stop, the idle will drop really low for a second, then "wake back up" and idle normally.
But then most often of all, it drives normally. Anyway, step one was to run a tank of premium gas with a good injector cleaner. Which I'm doing now. Wondering if it's spark plug wires?
No "check engine light" at any point during this. All maintenance up to date; recent spark plugs; 187,000 km.
View 3 Replies
MY 2003 Santa Fe is fwd with the 3.5 v6. While under normal conditions, the engine lost power and began "chugging" and "bucking". There was also a belt slipping "whine" associated with this problem. The problem continued for about two minutes, then corrected itself, and I was able to drive normally.
View 1 Replies
Still getting p0174 error after upsteam downstream, checked everything.
View 1 Replies
2002 Santa Fe V6
Ran the AC yesterday for the first time after a long cold winter. Seemed fine for about 15 miles but then I came to a stop and all of the sudden smelled burning plastic/electrical... white smoke started blowing out of the vents. Pulled over, popped the hood. The smoke appeared to be coming from the passenger/rear side of the engine.
Drove it another 15 miles home (had to) but with no AC or even fan on... made it and noticed the smell and smoke but only very little.
This morning I started it up .. got under the hood and clearly can smell it coming from the same area. That is the alternator at the back of the engine passenger side right? Voltages read fine... seems to be charging ok as well.
The only indicator that it is going bad is of course the smell and smoke... I can feel it is getting very hot.. too hot to touch after only a few minutes running. Spun bearings in it maybe? Just thought I'd put that out there before I start tearing it apart.
View 9 Replies
Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
View 2 Replies
Recently i changed my alternator, then all of sudden when i drive for about 15 mins it starts to overheat i pull over by a shop. And the guy let my car cool off, vacuumed pumped the air out and added water , before i could get hm , in overheated again , i let the car cool off, tried to re burp my car to no avail a diy, turned the car, my drive way is slated so that was an advantage, turned the heater on full blast but a funnel in and started to add coolant, frustrated for over 30,45 mins still nothing so i came in to toyota for them to find the problem first thing the next morning been here since 8.30 now its 12.45.. so they burped the system ,clean my ac system, oil change etc... so I leave excited, i get down the street and it overheats again ! I turn around and bring it back with the needle past the hot red line. No smoke or leaking anywhere....
View 3 Replies
I have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
View 6 Replies
1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
View 2 Replies
I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
View 14 Replies
2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
View 14 Replies
I am having an overcharging issue with my 2000 F350 diesel. It first started when I had a garage check the batteries due to poor starting this winter. They found one reading 6V and I had them replace it. After that the battery light came on. So I had them check it out again and they replaced the other battery. I can't remember if it started before or after the second battery but it started overcharging 16-17 volts according to the dash. I replaced the alternator still overcharging. Since then I have run a 4ga ground from one battery to the alternator and a 4ga ground wire from the other battery to the cab. I also checked most of the stock ground wires which all seem fine. Lastly, I also bought a ford alternator pigtail because one of the wires had cracked insulation and some corrosion. Currently it overcharges unless the battery light comes on which once it does the voltmeter in dash reads normal.
View 14 Replies
I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 82000 miles. I have replaced four (4) batteries since it was purchased, new, in March, 2010. I have repeatedly taken it to the Hyundai dealerships in Las Vegas, Nevada and Centennial, Colorado, for an oil leak on the valve cover over the alternator. At no time has the service technicians at the dealerships ever told me there was problem. Last Thursday, the latest new battery, installed that same day, failed. I had my independent garage technician assess the multiple battery failures, with the associated battery display light illumination, related to the location of the continual oil leak. He stated that the cause of the battery failures was from the oil damaging the alternator. I contacted Hyundai Customer Service, today, and was told that there have no reported problems from oil leakage onto the alternator, with subsequent damage to it, and/or the battery.
View 3 Replies
My sister has a 2011 Santa Fe that was making some noise so she had it looked at at a local Monroe, which then said that the Alternator Pulley is loose. I haven't had the chance to look at the car myself, but in this case, would it be possible to replace just the pulley? Or will I have to replace the whole alternator?
The guys from Monroe said the alternator will have to be replaced as a whole. But from pictures I'm seeing online, it looks like the pulley is held by a 6-point nut, with a torx screw in between to counter hold the rotation. I can also see some listings on eBay for just the pulley. So I'm thinking I could start off by tightening the nut or replace the pulley if it's dented or off shape. Will I have to replace the whole alternator?
View 12 Replies
When the vehicle is accelerated the light goes off. When I stop it comes back on, so it seems that the alternator is not charging when the vehicle idles. Could this be a bad belt or maybe the alternator. Charged the battery all night it has 12.40 volts, and is only 1 yr old. At idle the reading on the battery slowly starts dropping, then goes up when under acceleration.
View 19 Replies
I drive a 2001 VW Jetta and have had many issues with this car but have had this particular issue many times. It starts when all of a sudden my car feels like it's going to stall when idling. When I go to drive it in this state the car has difficulty excelerating, bucking and sputtering (like the engine isn't getting enough fuel) and the engine light comes on. I have taken it to many shops and they usually replace an oxygen sensor saying that it is clogged etc. I have also had a couple of tune-ups because of it but after about a year the issue comes back and I shell out more money. I was told by one mechanic to use only super gasoline and that it should prevent it from happening again which I did and it held it off from happening again to about a year and a half but now it's back.
View 5 Replies
My MIL is on!!!! I went to Autozone, they told me the error code is P0121. The car is running funny, with uneven idle, and bucking/not shifting.
View 6 Replies
An independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).
View 13 Replies
After 1-2 mins I turn off my car I hear a popping sound from under the car. Usually it goes after some sounds of cooling down the metal and ticking, and then a pop sound. Nothing during the driving. I did some research and found that it may be Catalytic Converter cooling down or the heat shield.
View 9 Replies
When closing my glove box, it will open back out. That's if I slap it on and let go. I noticed that there are 2 notches sliding out of the glove box. If I push them in by hand, they slide out slowly. So I tried to close the glove box and keep my hand on it for a couple of seconds for the notches to slide. It stays closed this way. I'm suspecting this is tied to the cold weather we're having lately. I hope I don't have to take it apart to re-lube it or anything like that.
View 2 Replies
