Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Car Won't Start - Key Wouldn't Turn In Ignition
Jan 11, 2014
I have a 2003 Santa Fe with AWD, automatic, and 3.5L engine. Saturday I went to get in and key wouldn't turn. Tried to mess with shifter and steering wheel but no go, Wife got it to turn after I went to work. Won't start. Waited for a new ignition lock cylinder then replaced today. Still won't start. There is no chip in the key as far as I know and the kill switch thing is still plugged in. Jumping does nothing. Doesn't even try to start or do anything when I turn the key all the way. What am I missing here?
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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Last 6th of Jan. my son parked his car, a 2008 Chevy HHR, and 3 hours later it wouldnt start. Not only wouldn't start, the Ignition key wouldn't turn, and he couldn't remove it. Checked ECM fuse, Good: Checked Batt. No voltage on the Batt. No corrosion, no loose connections. Put jumper on it, started right up. Took it to Advance Auto, Batt showed a CCA of 660 Amps., Alternator putting out 15 Volts.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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I've just bought a 2.0D Santa Fe (I am UK based) and when I turn on the ignition the warning lights light up and then go off - which I believe is the light check.
However, the transmission warning light does not come on during this check period. Is there an easy way to test this? I'd like to know when the 4WD kicks in or there is a problem but don't know if there's a bulb fault or not.
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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2001 Santa Fe 2.4l. My stepson said it wouldn't rev over 3K and had very little power. When it idled the exhaust smelled pretty bad. The next day it died completely and would not start. It wouldn't even start with a little starting fluid and wasn't getting spark.
4 Codes:
Catalylitic Code
Cam Sensor Code
Crank Sensor Code
TPS Code.
I figured the Crank was an old stored code as that was replaced a couple months ago. I replaced Cam, TPS and then redid the Crank Sensor. Still no start. But now, it would run a few seconds on a shot of starting fliud. Exhaust still smelled bad and it didn't rev up like an engine does when it starts on the juice. So NOW it was getting spark again.
Here's the other things I checked:
Catalitic Converter: unhooked exhaust- still no start
EGR Valve: It's good
Spark Plugs: Good (has platinum in it though? , but wouldn't spark a regular plug)
Coils: Both good
Ignition Failure Sensor: Bypassed it and no start:
Fuel cutout Switch: Good and pressed a thousand times
Fuel Pump: Replaced and good
Fuel Pump relay: it clicks and even when bypassed still does not start.
Wiring Harness: No breaks or chaffed wires.
All fuses are good.
All applicable relays have been checked on the under hood fuse box
Here's Something Strange:
The Timing belt was replaced last fall with a new tensioner as well. I checked it after all the above stuff and the timing was WAY off, enough that a pistion felt like it was hitting a valve when I hand cranked it. So, I redid the timing belt (someone else did it last time) and now there is no spark once again.
I've reset the computer a few times. But now no spark after redoing the timing belt. While you may think that I may have done something when doing that here's one more CLUE : Remember above, it would do that no spark thing when we were trying to fix it earler that's why I figured the cam and crank sensor codes were legit. Now, it just does it the whole time.
I think the original problem with the exhaust smelling horrible at idle was raw fuel hitting the cats?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe with around 140,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but the last couple of years have been fine until this morning. I tried to start it and appeared to have full battery power, but it would not turn over. Instead of a clicking sound, it was more of a whining sound it made while it tried to start. I took the battery into AutoZone and they told me it was dead, so I bought a new one and replaced it after cleaning the connector cables. The same thing is still happening with the new battery. I've attempted to jump it as well.
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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All of a sudden this morning on my way to work my door chime starts going off, every time I turn left it seems. I have a 2004 Santa Fe ....
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I have a problem with a Torrent. Still have my old GP with over 400K on it. Anyway, son's Torrent wouldn't turn over so he got a new battery and it still won't turn over. I'm getting 12v to the starter but nothing when he tries to start. Have taken starter off to have it looked at tomorrow. In the meantime, anything else it could be? He just spent a small fortune having head gaskets replaced.
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o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
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My car wouldn't turn start today at school The ignition would "click" continuously but the car wouldn't turn over. Battery is fully charger and didn't start with a jump either. Alternator issue??
Anyways, me and a buddy tried to push start it in 2nd gear a couple times with no luck... is this even possible with our cars?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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I am currently driving a 2012 Santa Fe Sport (Canadian). Over the weekend I encountered a problem with the ignition - the key would not turn. It happened once in the morning but it turned after I jiggled it a few times. It happened again in the afternoon but this time it would not turn at all. I had to call roadside assistance. They had me try a few things (pumping the breaks, shaking the steering wheel) but I couldn't get it to turn. They had to send a tow truck. When he arrive he fiddled with it for 30 seconds and got it to work but could not really explain why - only suggested that I take it to the dealership to have it looked at.
The vehicle is only a few months old (5200km).
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 47,000 Km on it.
Over the past 2 weeks I have noticed that when I go to start up the car, the ignition doesn't sound the same. Meaning, that typically when I start the car, I hear a quick turn of the ignition and away I go. When I now start up the car, the ignition does not turn over as quick and I'm now hearing a bit of a hesitation.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
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