Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Car Turns Off Slowly / Taking About 5 Seconds Or So To Wind Down And Stop
Apr 23, 2012
New post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
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On the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
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I recently replaced my driver side axle due to the inner CV joint boot being ripped. Its a 2001 Jetta VR6 with 173,000 miles on it and I have been driving it with a ripped boot for about a year and finally decided to replace the whole axle last night. I replaced it with an aftermarket axle (was on a budget) and the job was fairly easy. Since I did it late at night I was too tired to take it for a test drive so I waited until today. When I was driving it all was well until I took a right turn and I could hear a very distinct clicking sound coming from the driver side wheel well, it is constant throughout the turn.
The noise is only present when taking turns above 20mph and it sometimes even occurs when driving in a straight line. Take note that I have not had an alignment done yet since I had replaced the axle. The car is lowered about 2 inches on Raceland coil-overs that are pretty old and I think they are shot. But like I said the car has NEVER made this sound until I just recently replaced the axle. I am at a loss of what it could be and I am trying to sell the car currently so I would like to get this problem sorted out as soon as possible!
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra standard model, Manual drive.
It started out with the CEL flashing sometimes if I give it a lot of gas like taking off from a stop light. Then the car would just lose power when I was driving randomly and cut off like I was running out of gas. Then I restart it a few minutes later and it would drive fine. Then it now got to the point that when you try to drive it, it just shakes a whole lot and it has like 20% power, you can hit the gas as much as you want and it pretty much doesn't move.
The first time I had it towed home I replaced the Ignition Coil, and Spark Plug Wires which did nothing.
The first shop I took it to said it was a bad injector and bad spark plug wires (even though they were new)
So they changed the injector and wires and the car ran fine for 2 weeks at most and started doing the same thing. When I took it back he said another injector went bad and that they were all going to go bad in sequence. So I had him replace that one and it drove perfect again for a week and had the same problem.
Then I took it to another shop which said my spark plug cables were arcing inside where it plugs in so I took the cables back and got replacements and he said they were still arcing and were garbage to get cables from the dealer so I did that and it ran fine for an hour after taking it home and just started like it was running out of gas. I would have to floor it and basically coast, and try to restart it and when I would give it gas it would hardly go and I just had to keep restarting it and finally it wouldn't start so I towed it home, and sure enough after cooling down it started again and now when you drive it, it feels like you've only got 20% of power.
The only preexisting condition the car had was a clogged charcoal canister because when I get gas it always keeps clicking and I have to put 30 cents of gas in at a time or the nozzle shuts off or if I keep doing it too fast the gas comes out and runs down the side of the car.
I changed the spark plugs I think about 2 weeks before this stuff started happening. So far it has new:
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires (x2)
Fuel Injectors (x2)
Hollowed out Cat Converter because the mechanic said it was clogged
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I'm having an issue ( happened about 6 times now) where engine is taking 5 to 10 attempts to start after, and only after, I put fuel in! Engine turns over but 3 seconds later dies. I have had the starter, battery and alternator checked and they are all fine. , it only happens after I fuel and I have tried a bunch of different gas stations so I know its not bad fuel. In between fuel ups engine runs fine and never a starting issue.
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02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
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I've got an 02 Santa Fe with the auto-dimming mirror. The tension that keeps the mirror in position has gotten loose, so the vibration from the road causes it to slowly move downward while driving.
Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
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I have an 02 Avalanche 1500 4wd z71. It has 173000 miles. Noticed a clunking noise under driver side when slowly taking off. If I floor it there is no sound at all. This only happens when vehicle is on 2wd mode. If I put it on auto 4wd there is no more clunking. The noise sound like two pcs of bare metal are hitting each other. What this could be.
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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I have a weird problem. Sometimes when i slow down to make a turn or stop at a stop sign my car just dies...that's it...it just turns off...but i turn the key and it starts right back up...the weird part is that i've had the car for a year and it only does it about once a month??? I took it to the dealer and...big surprise...they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it...it doesn't turn off while I'm driving on the highway or anything...only does it when i slow down to make a sharp turn or when i stop at a stop sign and go again... I might just trade it in for an Audi A4. I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t...
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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I have an Air Conditioning issue on my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L 5-speed manual with 208,000km on it. I've never had any work done on my AC since I bought it new. Never had a problem with it and even as I write this is works just fine and blows ice cold air.
The problem started a couple of weeks ago when I noticed this very brief "higher pitched burping sound" coming from under the hood that lasts for just a second, and only when the AC is on and only if the RPM's are above idle. It sounds like a "bloop" for lack of a better description. When it happens, the RPM's drop one mark on the RMP gauge for a moment and there is obvious strain on the compressor. Air remains ice cold, everything still works, but this occurs every 30 seconds or so while driving.
While stopped I can rev the motor to just above idle, say 2000rpm and engage one of the defrost settings and get the "bloop" sound to occur almost every time. The top thicker AC pipe leading into the firewall from under the hood (the one that gets cold to the touch) seems to be part of the problem. At least if I am touching this pipe when it makes this "blooop" sound I can feel the vibration from the "bloop" in this pipe.
I've already had a garage replace my AC belt which I just had replaced a month ago, and checked the pullies and tension and all is okay. So it's definitely coming from the AC system and I can feel a vibration during the "blooop" sound on that pipe that gets cold and goes through the firewall. The sound does not occur when the AC is not on.
Also, when I am driving and it occurs every 30 seconds I do feel a slight decrease in the smoothness of the ride and like I said when it does this the RPM's will drop one mark on the gauge, which I'm assuming is the strain on the motor trying to engage the compressor when it's probably already up to pressure.
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I just installed new front brakes and rotors on my 2004 2.7L AWD, and since then the brake warning light on the dash comes on occasionally. Typically, it will turn on when applying the brakes. Usually for a longer period of time to a stop. (Rolling up to a stop sign/stop light, rather than slowing down for a turn). It will either stay on for about 15 seconds or not go off until I hit the brakes again. My e-brake handle is all the way down.
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Toyota Yaris 2008 with 165,000 miles, so far great car. I drive an average of 100 miles a day, and had no problems until the last 6 months that the driver side headlight burnt out. So no big problem, right? just replace it... Well, about 2 months later, the other one went out, replaced it too. This morning at 1:30a.m getting home from work, a hwy patrol stops me because the driver side headlight is out, and gives me a warning ticket. I took the car to my mechanic so he can check wires or something, but he says that there is nothing to check, that after a while "those" lights go out like that. I am not sure about that, I really do not want to be changing lights every 2 or so months.
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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I've had this passat since it had 103k. Now at 167k. It's ran good. Til now. Lately its been having a problem starting. Goto start it and it takes a good 15-20 secs to start. Eventually starts but had a couple times when it started the engine would act like it was going to die then eventually stay running. I've noticed when the car sits for awhile. About 3-4 hours or more it starts ok. But say I run to the store and let it sit for 20 min to a hour then I have problems starting it. Had a local store test battery, starter, and alternator and everything tested fine except the starter failed on startup but then passed after the car was running for a min. So replaced starter. Still having starting issues. Recently I have changed the spark plugs and valve cover gasket.
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just wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
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