I recently noticed while driving my Santa fe the car started to stumble.Then a little while later the check engine light came on. Pulled the code came up with p300. It's a random misfire related code.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
We have been fighting a misfire code for about a year now and I'm pretty sure I finally found the cause. Last Spring the car died on the road and we had it towed to a local service center where they said the fuel pump was bad...this was the 2nd in about 2 years (previous owners doc). We had it replaced and the car was fine but as mentioned had a random misfire code that would come and go. In the last month the car has left us stranded several times and then started after a few hours or a day. While checking the connection to the fuel pump with a meter and test light I verified the pump was getting power correctly to the 5-pin connector but would not start. I unplugged the connector and the 1st 2 pins in the harness connector were damaged and probably burnt.
I cleaned it and applied dialectic grease and plugged it back in turned on the key...fuel pump primed and then the car started and ran fine. It then started to randomly turn on and off but not enough to stall the car. I wiggled the connector and the it I could make it run or shut off. Obviously the connector is bad and the contacts are intermittent. While driving the vibrations would move it just enough to make it cut on and off and more than likely cause a misfire code and sometimes stall the car. My problem now is I can't find a replacement connector/pigtail for the harness connector anywhere including the dealer. Where can I get a new connector for the 5-pin fuel pump harness connector? I have found a MAF replacement connector that looks very similar but not 100% sure if it's the same.
Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
View 1 Replies2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
View 3 RepliesSo I was driving along at about 50 MPH and came to a normal stop for a red light. Sitting at the light for approximately 10 seconds and feel the engine stumble or possibly misfire.
I immediately look for any idiot lights and see none, however above the mileage range instead of the pages that are normally shown I see:
LIMIT --- MPH
I drove for about a mile and everything seemed fine, I pulled off into a lot and rebooted the car and now everything is back to normal.
I just purchased a 2005 Santa Fe, 4WD, 2.7l..the engine has a miss...the code that came up was "misfire in #2 cylinder"..I checked the coil pack...and the wire harness just crumbled..so I replaced the coil pack...reset the code..and it was good for a couple of days...I got through inspection...today I put on the A/C..and the engine got rough..the check engine light came back on..same code..misfire in #2..I'm thinking the injector or what else could it be? plug? wire?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 3.5. Today I started it and the check engine light came on. It was not on before this. (We had a lot of wind and rain from the storm but nothing major.) And seems to be running fine. I went to the auto parts store and they ran a diagnostic and the Code P0306 came up #6 cylinder misfire. They said probably Spark plug, wire or coil for #6, then went to look up code in computer and did not have my truck so they went with Kia or Domestic, which gave different possibilities for a code P0306.
They had me buy some fuel injector cleaner as injector was on the list. The light is still on so I guess the cleaner was not the magic bullet. I spoke to a lady at another auto parts store who is a wiz when it comes to cars and has been around them and fixing them a really long time. She says the Code P0306 is Spark Plug, wire, coil #6. She has a 4cyl Hyundai car not truck and she had the code for her #4 misfire in the past and she started her repair cheapest first, Plugs, wires her code was still there she then changed the coil and that did the trick for her.
I on the other hand can't do this stuff myself. Can't afford the dealer anymore or to have a shop do a tune up AND coil if I don't need all new plugs and wires just a coil as they will charge a lot to do a lot all. And it may not need it or even be any of those things. I also suspect the dealer and shops will want to still hook up their computers to do an costly diagnostic because the light is on, even though I know the parts store already came up with a code P0306 twice. Spoke to the dealer on the phone and he already basically said they would want to do that first for $100 plus the cost of repair.
I brought the truck new. It now has 91,500 miles on it and the dealer has already done two tuneups on it in that time, Plugs and wires. I hear it probably shouldn't have even needed these tuneups in this amount of millage? So the last one was probably about 2 years ago and a few thousand miles maybe a guess 10,000-20,000 miles ago. Do you think a plug and wire would be bad already in that few miles?
I got a check engine light. I went to Auto zone to get it read & they came up with a P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire. Since I bought the vehicle a couple of months ago, I don't know when the plugs were last changed, so I decided to change them. However . . .
Is there a secret to getting the plug boots & wires out of the hole and off the plug without wrecking the wires?
I have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl that is giving me a problem that I could use some advice on tracking down & fixing . First & most important is a code P0302 # 2 Cyl misfire. How to check the ignition coil pack , injector ,& wire for this cylinder in home garage with normal tools & meter . Is there a you tube displaying how to do this step by step ?
The other problem which I don't have the code for at this time is that some part of the exhaust is not getting warm enough & this also put's the check engine light on . Will get back on this one when I solve the main problem Misfire.
I have a 2005 Santa Fe with the 3.5 with 112000 miles on it. I had the engine light come on with the code P0302 cyl #2 misfire, I got spark plugs, plug wires to do a tune up on it. I changed all of it and got it back together, started it up and it still had a miss to it. I then took the front spark plugs out and did a compression test on it. #2 was at 85, #4 was at 120, and #6 was at 160. I couldn't check the back cyls because I had already put the intake back on. I then did a wet test, and all the cyls came up to 160. So this tell me that the piston rings are bad in #2 and going bad in #4. I have kept all the oil changes up and up to this point I haven't had any trouble with it. Having this problem with there 3.5?
View 1 RepliesI have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
View 22 RepliesLast week, my van started chugging and the keydance code indicated random misfire. I changed the front spark plugs and wires and it ran a little better but still showed the error. Took it to my trusted mechanic and he changed the back 3 wires and plugs and the coil pack. Code now showed misfire on one of the back cylinders(I forgot which one). 2 Mechanics both confirmed good spark and gas at the cylinder. He is saying that there is a mechanical problem in the cylinder and the fix would be over $1k.
The van has over 250k on it so it's not worth the engine work. I asked about a compression test and was told that it's almost impossible to test the rear cylinders without doing a ton of work, and that they are 95% sure that it is a mechanical problem with the cylinder. I've known the mechanic for over 20 years and he is an honest guy, and knows that I won't do the expensive repair, so he's not trying to rip me off.
I don't have the facilities or knowledge to do the work, so it looks like I'm screwed. Is there anything else that I should be doing before I write the van off? It does run, but very rough at low speed, and no power at high speed, and mech says that the unburned gas will eventually screw things up.
I have a 96 Grand Voyager that had had sat for a year undriven or started due to being out of state. It ran like a champ when I parked it. Now I charged the battery and went for a drive on the freeway and my check engine light came on and started blinking. I had the code read it came back with 2 codes a P0306 and a P0300. I noticed that the cylinder 6 spark plug wire was arcing on the core support. So I replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs with Champion platinum spark plugs. I cleared the codes and took it on a test drive and the P0300 code came back. Is there anyway the old gas is causing the random misfire? or what else could it be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.
At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.
Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.
Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.
Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).
Owned my 2001 Windstar almost 3 years and this is the first time the CEL has come on.
I just finished some big maintenance early last month. Trans fluid, engine oil, cabin filter, fuel filter, rear brakes, fuel injector cleaner additive.
While driving a short trip, a few blocks, we noticed the van shudder a little bit. I thought maybe something to do with the trans. It wasn't very noticeable but enough to cause the sensation of moving forward and back slightly. Sort of like experiencing a 4.5 earthquake that triggered 50 miles away while you are on top of a 4 story building. Enough to feel the sensation, but that's it.
Upon starting the car up again on our way home the CEL/MIL came on right away. Got home and ran my scan tool on it and here is what I got.
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
Freeze frame data
Calculated Load: 32 %
Coolant Temperature: 178 F
Engine RPM: 1320 r/min
Fuel System Status Bank One: Closed Loop
Fuel System Status Bank Two: Not Reported
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank One: -1.56 %
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank Two: -0.78 %
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank One: -1.56 %
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank Two: -2.34 %
Vehicle Speed: 28 MPH
Could this be related to a vacuum issue? I had the top intake apart a year ago and the EGR ports seemed ok, maybe a little clogging.
2003 2.4 base Santa Fe with 167k miles. It's having an intermittent stumble while idling and at take off once the engine is hot. I have replaced the plugs, coil pack, IAC, intake and cleaned MAF as well as replaced the PCV valve. Also checked and no vacuum hoses are misplaced or missing.
After some reading it appears it may be the EGR? I ordered it to replace just because I'm running out of things to try to replace without going to a shop.
On light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
View 7 Repliesi have a 2005 camry 4 cyl. and i have a couple of code: second o2 sensor, system too lean, misfire cyl. 1 2 3 and 4. when i run the car it is incredible how much gas it take.
I first replace the second o2 sensor and i cleaned the maf sensor, air filter, iac and trhotle body but the codes came again.