Have a used 2003 Santa Fe /w 2.4 . 150.000 miles .
It shuts down at any speed . seems to cut out mostly when cornering and applying the brakes. Check engine lite stays on . code p401 cnf
My 2003 Hyundai sante fe would not shut off. I had to disconnect the battery in order to kill the engine. The one thing I did notice was the ignition assembly didn't seem to have anymore kickback to it when engaging the starter. It just turns freely. weird, I hooked the battery back up and noticed that all my dashboard lights came back on with the key in my hand. I new something in the switch must be broken. I ordered both a new key and tumbler and also the ignition starter switch. When going to install it I notice that the cam looking part is the culprit.
View 2 RepliesI have a Santa Fe 2001, 2.0 Crdi.
My low beam have shut down. I have checked the fuse for right and left, and as I can see, it's the same fuse as for the high beam ...
Is there any known problems regarding this faults ? Of course, the bulbs are ok ...
My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
I've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
View 3 RepliesMy santa fe is throwing a vss code. I was trying to replace it but was not sure exactly where it was. Is it the one right under the air filter box or is that a crankshaft position sensor or some other one?
View 12 RepliesBlower only works on high speed. From what I have read the problem is either the switch or the motor resistor. I am leaning toward the resistor which is behind the glove box. Where can I find directions for removing the Glove box?
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L AWD about 5-6 months ago. It has close to 120,000 miles and has a terrible vibration at highway speeds. It starts around 55-60mph and gets increasingly worse as speed increases. The steering wheel originally vibrated quite violently, but after changing the "front axles" it resolved only the vibration in the steering wheel
I took it to a local shop we trust, they changed the "front axles", all spark plugs, ignition coils, timing belt, transmission fluid change, and a o2 sensor.
I changed out a serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley (due to a squeak), another o2 sensor, and tried to change the transfer case + rear differentials fluid. I couldn't change them because the fill plug was very stuck... we used a propane torch and a large socket wrench.
Anyways, after the front axles were replaced, the steering wheel got significantly better, there is however some vibration through it. After they were replaced it did not fix the vibration shaking the whole car. I've noticed that when you let your foot off the accelerator all the way, the vibration stops. When you step on the accelerator again it starts shaking very bad, and then begins to get slightly better. The vibration has a rhythmic timing to it. It seems like it pulsates stronger, then softer every 1/2 second or so
Also I have had the wheels balanced 3 times. I doubt it's the tires, unless a tire is out of round. My rotors also do not seem to be warped. When I brake, there is no shaking/shimmying. I was wondering if it could be the engine mounts? This vibration is very annoying, since I have to drive long trips sometimes. Other than this problem I like this car and would love to see it fixed.
2003 hyundai santa fe 2.4l ... When driving on highway speeds of 65 miles hour, I take foot of the accelerator and I put it back on to gain speed , it starts jerking or bagging. Also in the city when I press accelerator seems to have no power. I have no codes or check engine light on, what could it be?
View 2 RepliesDrove my son's '01 Santa Fe and the AC is not cooling. The compressor seems to be working but there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash on the passengers side. The clicking is louder when you turn up the speed of the fan. The coolant does not need to be charged.
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with my 2006 Sante Fe. When driving (at all speeds) my SF has developed a "cyclical", repetitive whining sound in the engine compartment that directly corresponds with the speed of the car. The "revolutions" of the sound are slow at slow speeds and very high pitched and fast at high speeds.
It happens at all speeds, with or without throttle being applied. I do NOT hear it when the car is in park or in neutral and I rev the engine so it has something to do with the rotations of the wheels/axles/drive shaft/gears or something that rotates in synch with how fast the car is going. I still hear it when coasting.
We recently put on new tires a few months back and I thought maybe it was just the sound of the new tread on the road but now I am almost positive this sound is coming from somewhere in the engine compartment. It is possible that it is coming from under the car but the problem is a can't confirm that because I only hear the sound when the car is moving. So far, it's just an annoying sound, it does not affect the performance of the car.
I am getting a drone like sound when driving at any speed only when applying the gas, is this normal if not what would be the problem here.. I drive a 2.7 Litre / 2006 Santa Fe.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, I've had my Auto Transmission Speed Sensor replaced and will have the output speed sensor replaced to have speedometer/odometer and cruise control fixed. While having the first sensor replaced my mechanic noticed the Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector (the plug on the wiring harness) was cracked. I've been looking everywhere for this connector. I don't want to buy the complete wiring harness because I've heard it is very expensive. I want just the connector. What is the part number of just the connector?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 santa fe with th 2.7. The tail lights light up both films on both sides when you turn the lights on. Now the cruise control will turn on but it won't set the speed. I changed the brake switch and i tried to put it in the same exact spot. The old one was not sticking or anything. Now I was told the switch might need reset or something. I looked everywhere for shorts and sealed them up. Checked all the fuses which all are good. So im not sure whats going on. Now when you press the brake the small fuse will burn out.
View 10 Replies2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
My Santa Fe indicated P0715 for input speed sensor problem. I purchased both sensors and based on forum input I removed the air box and battery to access senors. Output speed sensor is easy to see and access. I am having a problem locating the input sensor. I see wires going to a sensor under both the main wiring harness and shift cable. Is that the location of the input sensor? If so how do you move the wiring harness and shift cable to allow access? If not, where is the input speed sensor located? The Santa Fe is 2001 V6 2.7L.
View 8 RepliesOn my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
View 6 Replies2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
View 3 Replies2005 Santa Fe (88K, 2.7 V6).
For a month or two, after the car got warmed up, I'd hear a whine/hum noise when I slowed to turn or reduced speed. The noise was much more noticeable when the car had been running at least 15-20 minutes, but I did occasionally hear it when the car was somewhat cool still. Never had a problem steering during this time, even with the noise... but I eventually figured out that slowing down and/or turning brought it on. So I took it to a mechanic.
They showed me bubbles coming from the power steering reservoir, and said I needed a new PS pump and pressure hose, along with a flush/new fluid. I paid for all of that.
Next day: The car would become hard to turn when I made a tight turn into a parking spot... again, not a constant thing, but only when turning to park and going slow. The noise APPEARED to be gone, but this new issue worried me so I took it back. They put a different pump on (no charge), thinking the other may have been defective.
Next Day: I hear the whine again on my way home from work. When I get home, I park, leave it running, and pop the hood. There's a fast drip bubbling from beneath the reservoir cap and running down to the pavement. First thing the next morning I return to mechanic. He says the first two pumps were the same brand and both "remanufactured" so he switches to a different brand -- this one brand new, not "remanufactured" -- and installs that one.
A half hour later, I get home. Hearing that same whine/hum, I lift the hood. Fluid is pouring out from beneath the cap in a steady, unbroken stream (not a drip, but a stream). So I took it back to the mechanic (who to his credit, has charged me nothing since the initial new pump installation). What could cause the power steering fluid to gush out from the reservoir cap when the car gets hot? I have a brand new pump and pressure hose. What could cause this condition..