I am after to find which USB cable and software can be used on my wife's ... 5/05 v6 Santa Fe to check the error codes. The car is revving up and down when cold and lacking power when warmed up, I'm guessing it's a sensor but I need to find which one.
View 1 RepliesI've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
My problem is my 2001 Santa Fe petrol 2.7 L its done over 300,000 km one day it sounded like a click when driving, then when I started it cold in the morning it was missing [not running right] and had no power until it warmed up the spark leads are not that old anyway I put new spark plugs in it it seem to run a lot better but seems to be down on power on hills I think coils are ok? the motor not smokey but burn little bit of oil.
View 10 RepliesMy 97 Subaru sport has trouble starting when left until cold, it always finally starts, but wont rev at all until its has been running for 20-30 seconds.
Other symptoms include....Once running it also seems to be lacking power across the low rev range. but then seems fine above 4k rpm.
If i get stuck in stationary traffic for a while, the check engine light comes on and i lose all power, it hardly pulls its self off to a start. But if i were to rev the engine and let it drop back to idle a couple of times the light goes off and i get power back to set off.
I drive a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 2.7L with a whopping 274,3xx miles on it. I've had it for about 6 years and it has been a great car for the most part. The water pump was replaced a couple years ago and the battery was replaced a year ago.
It started having issues a few months ago. It started out having difficulty starting, and shortly after it would start it would rev up as if you were accelerating even if my foot was on the brake. I took it to the shop and they checked the head gaskets, battery, transmission, alternator (I think?). Came up with the idea that it may be the air intake valve. It's the thing that controls how much the blade opens when you press on the accelerator. Well they took it out and said it was the dirtiest one they had ever seen. They cleaned it, because no one in our area had a replacement, and my car seemed to be acting better. It would still rev occasionally and would have trouble starting but not nearly as often as before.
Fast forward to now (a month later) and my car is revving higher and for longer than it ever has and has started stalling, and not starting more frequently. It usually stalls after it has been revving when it cant release or go forward (ex. when applying the brake or while in park.)
What the heck is wrong with this thing?? No one seems to be able to figure it out and it it so frustrating, not to mention dangerous! It stalled in the middle of me making a turn today so I was literally sitting in the middle of oncoming traffic with a dead car.
1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
Recently started experiencing a hard downshift after driving for 30 minutes, and only from 2nd to 1st. No other shift issues with other gears, up or down.
When moving over to manual shifting, it doesn't appear to have the issue when downshifting in manual.
I replaced the radiator about 2 weeks ago due to a serious leak, and the shifting problem wasn't an issue before as I would have noticed.
Going to start with the fluid lvl, but it feels odds with it occurring during the downshift to 1st.
I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
More Information
2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
My 1999 Civic (auto trans) idles fast at start up--drives itself until warmed up. Also intermittantly revs on its own at startup after warmed up. Throttle body was cleaned; problems persisted. Idle Air Control Value replaced, problem persists. Car has 173000 miles on it
View 3 Replies00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Civic Ex automatic 225k miles on it. Recently replaced spark plug and spark plug wires. Just had an oil change and an inspection done; they found an oil leak in the oil pan (oil pan cover gasket needs replaced). I have a severe lack in power, meaning it doesn't have the get-up-n-go it should. Doesn't shift until it hits 3.5 rpms, idles pretty loud, and noticed earlier today that there is a rattling that seems to be coming from front drivers side(could of been the road, adding it in for good measure) but that didn't happen till i hit 65. The coolant tank has a black grime in it, and from what i understand that's from deteriorating hoses(?). My question is this: What could be causing this loss of power?
View 4 RepliesI have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
I have a 2010 Camry Le with the 2.5 4cyl. What I'm trying to diagnose started in the last 2 weeks, the engine just seems like it's lost some power overall but there is no unusual sounds coming from the engine and it has not triggered and codes. I have checked the simple stuff like the air filter and plugs but am not sure where to turn next.
View 7 RepliesMy mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid with about 150,000 miles.
It sometimes is lacking normal power - slow to start but fine once to full speed. When it is lacking power I notice that the gas engine is not shutting off when stopped at traffic signal like it normally does with charged batteries. It will be like this or a few days and then suddenly has its normal power and shuts of at traffic signals again.
Seems to be some failure of communication in the hybrid controls with system not telling the electric motor to do its thing. Where I should start looking for fix of this intermittent problem?
ok so let me start by saying, my name is Tim, I own a 1999 Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3.0L truck, I bought it brand new in 1999 and drove it for a few years and then took it off the road for 3-4 years then last year I went to put it back on the road and I couldn't get it running.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced a key switch module. since then the ranger seems to lack power. It also idles erratically when you first start it in the morning too.
not sure whats going on here but the engine light is on,
I get codes P0171 & P0174 (too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2)
I would also like to note that I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission filter, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, PCV valve, EGR valve, TPS sensor, idle control solenoid, fuel pressure regulator & new plugs. I have also checked for vacuum leaks with no avail.
I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
View 1 RepliesLong time 2004 Santa Fe owner here (LX 3.5 liter):
I have an issue where after a cold start the engines idles a little higher than I'm normally used to. I think it idles at sub-1000 RPM, but now it's more like 1200-1500 RPM. Adding to this it seems to vibrate/throb every 2-3 seconds. It's very slight and unless you've been driving the car for a while you'd probably wouldn't notice the change. I'm used to a steady idling, so this pulsating sensation is new to me. Once I kick it into drive the car is perfectly fine, idles at 500-600 RPM at stop lights, etc., and starting it up after running errands after a few hours in the store yields no problems either. It only happens after a really cold start, say 8 hours or so.
I took it to the shop, all they could find was a slightly under-voltaged battery which they replaced, but the issue still occurs. The only thing I remember doing different around the time frame of when this started happening was add STP Multi-Purpose treatment into the gas tank. I can't imagine a fuel additive having such a dramatic impact though, but who knows.
I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now In Cold Temps -20 Celsius Or Colder... dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms....
View 11 RepliesThe battery light brake light and ac not cold all happened at the same time. The power steering & power brakes are working.
View 4 Replies