Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
View 3 RepliesToday, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
My 1995 TS with 3.8 just quit driving down the road, would not restart. had to be towed home.
Fuel pressure just meets specs at 41 PSI engine off ( Gm says 41 to 47), but has been that way for some time. Put Actron scan tool on, got a code 361, EST not toggling. GM has no code 361, but based on past experience, this has usually pointed to a defective ignition module, and I thought that was that. While testing, scan tool kept losing communications and having to be reset.
Finally I unplugged power source of tool, and engine immediately quit and would not restart. Resetting scan tool would allow engine to restart, albeit very rough. Doing a wiggle test of engine wiring harness makes no change.
Crank sensor was replaced, about 12 years ago, so it not the trouble prone OEM; cam sensor about 10 years ago by a garage who was unsuccessful in solving a driveability issue.
Issue here is why would scan tool affect engine operation?
my 2003 santa fe speedometer stopped working it started to go up and down then quit...
View 1 RepliesI currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
I was recently on a road trip, using my cruise control extensively (like usual) when it just quit working. I tried to reset to a lower speed, but it would rev itself back up to the original speed. I turned off the cruise control, drove a mile or so and turned it back on. The cruise dash light came on, but the right control buttons no longer worked. No check engine light. It's never worked since.
My local tire shop checked codes and found the tcm not communicating with the mod (cruise module?). I'm looking to take it to the dealer, but I'd like to be better informed with what I may be dealing with before I get there.
I have a 2005 Santa Fe, and both power mirrors quit working at the same time. I plugged in a different switch, and still nothing. I checked the 10 amp fuse under the dash and that was good (is there a different one). The locks still work though.
View 3 RepliesIt was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
View 5 RepliesJust bought a 2001 santa fe, 2.7 v-6, automatic trans, 2 wheel drive, new tires, 120,000mi. Got a great deal, don't want to negate that by nickle and dimming. 3 weeks ago noticed a howling from drivers front at speed, pitch changes with wheel speed not rpm so i figured wheel bearing. Took both front tires off with vehicle firmly supported and put vehicle in drive and increased rpm. The noise is not at hub but at other end where the shaft attaches to transaxle. I figured there would be an "axle bearing" or some such i could replace but I can find no reference of one, and my book doesn't have break down of the transaxle. Where can i find more information, schematics, etc? I hope I don't have to remove transaxle to have one pressed in.
View 2 RepliesA few days ago, I started my wife's Santa Fe (106k miles) to warm it up and it had a rough idle. I gave it a test drive and the engine light came on and off a few times as it sputtered down the road. I retrieved the codes with my scan tool and it showed - P0300, P0304 and P0306. After some researching, I decided to change the coils, plugs and wires (under upper manifold) this coming weekend.
I have seen the web page instructions for doing this on a 2.7L [URL] .... but it has less stuff around the manifold compared to our Santa Fe. These instructions doesn't include coils was well since the plugs in front use just wires.
My question is.. Is there a set of instructions for the 3.5L for removing the manifold?.. From a less intense standpoint, maybe some of the hoses and cables can stay intact just to move the upper manifold or lift it to the side?... Also, Cyl 2, 4, 6 are the three sparks plugs in the front? 2004 Santa Fe 3.5l ....
My crew cab 2001 has 75K miles and is well maintained and garaged. Every once in a while the engine will just quit while driving just as if the key was turned to neutral all dash indicators light up but just quits running. Turn the key to start and hear the engine cranking but won't start. Sometime in park it just cranks however I noticed that when I move the shift lever into neutral and depress the brake it will crank and start sometimes.
I don't believe it's a fuel problem. Could it be a loose wire in the column?
My wife and I recently purchased a '01 Santa Fe. We noticed that the gap between the passenger front door panel and dashboard is wider than the gap between the drivers door panel and dashboard. There is road noise that enters from the passenger side door. I believe the door latch is contacting the striker before it is fully closed.
What would be the best way to correct this? Move the striker or the latch? My wife will be spending about three hours a day everyday during the week in this vehicle and the road noise will annoy her until I get it fixed.
I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
View 2 Replies2002 Elantra ... Just got a starter car for my son, there is a roar coming form the front end when driving down the road, a mechanic said it was the front wheel bearing, I have replaced those on rear wheel drive cars , but never on front wheel drive, how to change these?
View 10 RepliesI've got an 02 Santa Fe with the auto-dimming mirror. The tension that keeps the mirror in position has gotten loose, so the vibration from the road causes it to slowly move downward while driving.
Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
This is a 2001 Prius - car runs great and the AC is fine. However, driving down the road, when the AC is turned on there is a noticeable scraping/ticking noise - sounds like it coming from under the hood.
With the car parked, and the ignition ON, but without the gas engine running, there is no scraping noise.
This just recently started happening just shy of 200k miles, 14 years. While driving down the road, suddenly notice a power loss or no power, i.e., no motor output. Sometimes the just the ICE won't accelerate, sometimes it's both ICE and Electric motive force. When this occurs, the Brake and ABS check lights turn on. After a few seconds, to 10's of seconds, then the motive power reenables and the Brake/ABS lights go out. Often the cars continues on with no repeat. Testing over a few drives, it seemed to only do it during the warmup cycle when coolant was near 160-170.
However on a drive in the afternoon after it occurred in the morning; with ambient around 30 degrees, windows cracked, interior heat off, it didn't occur on the 15 minute drive, mostly freeway speed, even after about 10 minutes and cranking interior heat on. No codes are registered when this happens. I used Torque Pro and monitored things like throttle position and such, and things there seemed normal. Eng rpm dropped under 1000rpm and wasn't steady. Watching the MFG the power flows responded to the throttle (pushed/released) as if the engine was still doing what was asked (go figure, the display shows what is commanded, not what is occurring?).
Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
The car quit on the road and I diagnosed a bad fuel pump. Multiple tests confirmed the pump had failed. While we were doing the diagnosis, I noticed some strange behavior when monitoring voltage to the pump. While supply voltage was present during cranking, none was applied to the pump when the key was first turned to accessory. I decided to chase one thing at a time and replaced the pump (and fuel filter, since it had been too long since last replacement and I wanted to "cover all bases").
After pump replacement, I opened the coupling in the supply line before the fuel rail to confirm proper operation. When the key was initially turned to accessory (multiple times to prime everything), there was NO fuel flow. When we then cranked it, fuel was present very quickly. After reconnecting the line, a couple of rounds of cranking got the fuel pressure up and the car started and ran perfectly. A quick VAG-COM check showed no codes. I test drove it and then shut it down. Immediately after shut down, I switched the key to accessory and the fuel pump started right up. After doing this 4-5 times with a few minutes pause in between, I pronounced the car "good" and finished up.
This morning, I jumped in, turned the key to accessory and heard......nothing. No fuel pump running for the normal 2-3 seconds. I cranked it and it took two rounds of 4-5 sec cranks for it to fire and run (normally). I assumed it needed time to build fuel pressure. I then drove it for 20 minutes, parked it for 45 minutes and when I restarted it, it took a longer than normal crank period (maybe 3 seconds) to fire and I did NOT hear the pump run in accessory position. The rest of the day was with short stops and I could always hear the pump start in accessory and the car always fired up instantly. I have the Bentley CD and analyzed the wiring harness. It looks like the fuel pump relay is only commanded to operate by the ECU - there is no external input to the relay coil I can see (ground or B+).
The bottom line is that SOMETIMES the pump is commanded to run in ignition switch accessory position and sometimes it isn't. The "isn't" always seems to be after the car has sat for a while. Is there any combination of failed sensors that would cause the ECU to NOT command the pump to run for it's few seconds in accessory position ? Obviously, the next step is the FP relay but I hate to just throw parts at the car without some sort of troubleshooting and the repeatability of the problem with sitting time leads me to believe it may be more of a relay DRIVE problem then the relay itself.
My Dad has a 2004 F150 with the 5.4L. Going down the road it just up and quit, when would not even turn over (no starter click or anything), all lights seem to be working and nothing out of the ordinary on the gauges. Mechanic found fuel pump fuse blown then fuel pressure still low, so changed fuel pump. Still not running....
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