Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Cabin Fan Stops Then Starts With Audible Clicking
Sep 30, 2014
My 3003 Santa Fe AWD has an issue with the blower fan. It stops, then starts working and clicking can be heard behind the dash when this happens. The clicking seems to increase when the climatization switch (the one that switches the air to the front vents, foot wells, windshield, etc) is turned off. When it clicks while the switch is on the off position, the blower blows for a split second every time the click is audible. It kind of turns itself on/off. Before I start replacing parts, I suspect the fan relay to be the culprit, but I'm not sure.
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I recently bought a 2012 Golf 2.5L, and I absolutely love it. There is, however, a very annoying clicking sound that's audible in the cabin. I think it's coming from the overhead console area, where the lights, bluetooth, voice command, etc. are located.
Basically, it sounds like two plastic parts rubbing against each other. At first, I thought it might have been the latch on the sunglasses compartment. Then, I thought it might have something to do with the plastic reacting to changes in temperature. Ultimately, though, I can't figure it out. I've heard this sound when the cabin is both cold and warm, on bumpy roads and smooth roads, etc.
I don't know if I'm being excessively anal, but I find it really distracting. Is this something I should bring up with the dealer, or is there a quick fix/common sense solution? I feel a bit silly complaining over something like this, but it's beginning to drive me bonkers. Other than that, the car drives great.
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200. My A/C doesn't work. My dad is a retired old school mechanic and can't figure it out. The compressor turns on, on occasion, we think it's not getting power because we connected the compressor directly to the battery and it turns on fine. Think it's some type of electrical issue. Also hear a clicking sound inside the cabin when I depress the brakes when my gear shift lights are off. Sometimes they work and doors lock automatically when I put it in drive, but other times the lights don't work and I get that clicking and my doors don't lock. I believe the issue is electrical and tied together with a/c issues, but have no idea where to look.
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Not sure if it did it last summer, but I have noticed that with the AC on when I come to a stop the RPM drops to right around 500 for a second and car has a light shudder (no doubt from the RPM being too low). Since it is only with AC on and for such a short time, is this a sign of something out of whack, or is it normal?
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai santa fe 2.4l with 94k miles. when sitting at a idle it has a slight vibration in the cabin, feels like a slightly rough idle, when you drive the vibration is gone. I also had it throw misfire codes for cyl 2 and 4. I put in new plugs and changed the wires, coils are on the way. When the car is in drive and I put the parking brake on and walk up to the motor it sounds like it has a exhaust manifold leak, but I only hear it when in drive. I guess my question is, could this exhaust leak be causing the rough idle or will this be fixed once the new coils are on?
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It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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I have a clicking sound that seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Its audible with the windows down at anything over 15 mph. It sounds like some ball bearings are clicking around randomly and it's driving me crazy. I have continued to drive and nothing has hard failed yet after 2000 miles. My thought it was a front inner cv that went (grease all over) so I replaced that today, but no affect on the noise.
Other than wheel bearings, the only stuff back there is the haldex and shaft which could be big money. I know the shop I used had to remove the drive shaft to put in the exhaust- anything I can/should check on that?
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I recently got rid of my 13' Si and joined the Prius C family a few days ago. It was a big change change going from a high revving engine to a hybrid.
Over the last few days I've been figuring out all the different noises the engine makes. At this point I've figured out what all them are and that they're pretty much all normal sounds from a hybrid. There is one noise in particular that I have not been able to figure out if its normal or not.
Whenever the radiator fan turns on there is an audible ongoing clicking sound. It almost sounds like the fan is hitting something yet when the motor stops running and the fan is winding down the noise isn't present. You can't hear the clicking from the inside the cabin or even outside the car, the noise is only audible when to hood is popped.
I'm aware that I can drive to dealer and test one of their Cs but the drive is quite far. 2014 Prius C...
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Its a fairly quiet clicking noise. Not constant and starts randomly. I can really hear it when i am in the fast lane next to a barrier or crub? I recently started autoxing. So maybe i beat up something - what it would be though. I checked all my fender liners and splash guard. Everything looks good, but this noise is driving me nuts.
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I had a strange problem tonight, my car wouldn't start in park as it normally does, but did start in neutral? I certainly don't want it NOT to start! is there some sort of sensor that tells the car its in park and therefore allows it to start, which may have slipped/become faulty telling the car its safe to start, even though its in neutral and not park?
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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This all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
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We just replaced the starter on a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe 3.5. The car now starts, but won't idle. I can keep my foot on the gas and keep it running, but as soon as I let my foot off the gas it dies. We didn't have this problem before replacing the starter. Where to start looking?
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with about 85,000 miles. I went to go to work today and it would not start. Just clicking. So I jumped it and it started right up. On My way to work I noticed all the lights were dim. I turned on the turn signal and all the gages went dead and the transmission started to shift rough. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. I just replaced the taillight, but drove it for a few days with no problems. Just thought I would mention that.
When I arrived at work, parked it and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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I found the one way valve at the filler neck that seems to be installed backwards and turn it around, now fuel flows much faster and no clicking mid fueling.
WP_20140921_005 by mpe-9, on Flickr
It was pointing in the opposite direction as it is now.
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
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My Santa Fe driving me crazy. Have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl with a problem. It will start when cold and run normal about 2 minutes. Then it starts running erratically like a misfire. If you let it idle this way it will stall quickly and not restart until totally cold again the next day. If you catch it quick enough and continually pump the throttle it continues to run rough until it starts to warm up. As it warms up the engine slowly improves until it reaches operating temp. At this point the misfire is much less but still there. If you shut it off for more than 10 minutes it will not start until the next day. There are no codes at this time. I have changed the coolant temp. sensor, the cam position sensor, fuel pump and screen, spark plugs and wires. I have also verified all timing marks on the crank, cams, etc. The crank sensor was replaced about 40k ago when the timing belt was replaced. What can I look for now???
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I am getting two codes, p0171 and p0401. Both point to something with the fuel are mixture I believe. My problem is that I can not figure out what the problem is. As far as I can tell there is not a vacuum leak. My MAF sensor looks clean and close to brand new. The codes come on and the car seems to want to jump. It does not stall, just starts to bounce a little until I let off the gas. And it does not do it until the car is warmed up. 2001 Santa Fe .....
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