Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Brake Noise At Lower Speeds And Judder
Mar 25, 2011
Occasionally, when braking at lower speeds (i.e. coming to junction) I get feedback through the pedal almost as if the ABS has kicked in....braking is not very effective when it happens. I can also hear a pump type noise going. If I lift my foot and re-apply it clears and normal braking returns. In fact, sometimes I can hear the pump noise going even before I brake....always at low speed (sub 15-20 mph) doesn't happen when driving at higher speeds.
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I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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My 2001 Dodge Ram (1500) is making weird noises... they occur at lower speeds, not necessarily when braking or turning. My AC is not working as well... not sure if this has anything to do with the noises... or if there is something else going on (brakes, etc.)
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It started happening after our week vacation at the beach. Not sure if the salty air caused this or what. We mainly notice it at lower speeds on bumpy/gravel roads. No noise when the sunroof is open.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
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I'm having issue with my Camry making noise recently. It usually happens at lower speeds ~50km/hr, city driving. When going over bumps, rail road tracks, bridges, etc. it makes a metallic clinking sound that kinda lasts when the car is bumping up and down, if there are multiple bumps, it seem to be worse.
Going at highway speed and on smooth roads, doesn't seem to be much problem, or it occurs much less frequently.
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I have a 2002 passat 1.8T 78000 miles well maintained and oil changed every time with synthetic, when i seem to be going at lower speeds the turbo makes a weird chattering noise.only when i am light on the throttle.
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I'm experiencing noise when sunroof is open. This is happening at lower speeds and at last couple of sunroof positions. I guess it's vibrations or some weird effect. (Golf MKVI 2.5)
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A few weeks ago we notice a noise and grabbing from the front wheels. Noise was at lowers speeds only. Dealer did the following work.
Replace steering lock assembly and program
Replace left and right lower arm bushings
Replace outer cv boot, grease and repack
Extended warranty covered only steering wheel assembly and car rental.
They also said that the tires need it to be replace due to capping. Tires are only 9 months old. Replaced tire under warranty Potenzas G09 and di alignment that was way off. Two months ago was ok and drove less the 1,500 miles...
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New to the R, and recently the transmission seems to be making some noise throughout lower gears at low speeds, when the clutch is engaged the noise goes away, I figured it was the throwout bearing, but now my transmission now refuses to let me into 2nd gear and also reverse.
I changed the transmission fluid hoping it would eliminate the noise a bit, and saw very small metal shavings in the old fluid. I'm now worried I have a serious transmission issue... Are these signs of major transmission issues or should I be checking linkage? Any common transmission problems with the R I might be experiencing?
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Recently purchased an '05 GLI (my second mk4) and it has the stock RCs and Eagle F1 tires. They are good on tread, wear pattern, and pressure, but seem to be making an awful lot of road noise, especially at lower speeds and decelerating to around 20 mph. as I read in one post "it sounds like a semi-truck". When I test drove the car it was still in winter mode and there were no noises or pull and so I do not suspect any mechanical issues.
It does not result in any real vibration that you can see in the wheel, but you feel the buzzing. the steering is straight and true as well with no pulling left or right. IT'S JUST LOUD!! lifted the front end and shook the front wheels. the bearings seem nice and tight with no wiggle. I was going to remove the tires and rotate, or put on the spare to see for a diff, but the BBS tool for the center caps is a POS and I couldn't get them off. So ultimately I'm looking for some vortex advice on this noise, its causes, remedies, and and anything else I should be looking for.
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My 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE (Automatic, 69,400 miles) makes a grinding noise when I start to accelerate from 40 mph. I sometimes hear a noise that sounds like an airplane wheel being activated when I'm driving at lower speeds driving around town. Could this be the transmission? Who should I take the car to?
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I've been noticing an odd noise in the brake pedal in our '03 Santa Fe. I don't hear it all the time (almost never on the highway), but especially hear it in stop-and-go traffic. It's sort of a whirr, a "RRrrr". I've googled and watched YT videos and it's definitely not a hissing sound or a grinding sound, nor do I notice any difference in the brakes' responsiveness.
I'm apprehensive of taking it to the dealer for service because I only plan to have this vehicle for at most three more weeks. Have only held onto it this long because we couldn't afford to replace it until we sold our house-- which we've just done, and are about to move to a city about an hour away on 7/5. We'll trade in the car within a couple of weeks of moving.
The noise is definitely from the pedal and isn't anything like squeaking brake pads (I currently live in the DC metro area, so squeaky brakes become very familiar with all the stop-start traffic!). The videos I've found that point to a booster problem have a decided hiss, and it's not that either. Don't want to be unsafe in the time we've got left, but also don't want to throw another thousand bucks (every time something breaks in that darn thing, it always seems like it's about $800) into a car we won't have in a month's time.
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I have a 2.2 CRDI Manual - new 2010 model - bought from new approx 16 months ago. Live in UK. Quite a few problems, which is a shame as I love the car. Tonight's question is about the clutch. Became increasingly difficult/impossible to get into 1st when cold, and wasn't clearing so car would slightly jolt forwards. Dealer had it in and replaced ?Slave cylinder. No better. Went in yet again for a week. This time ?replaced Clutch ?wheel (staff not that communicative, or apologetic, and ps had to also replace both front drive shafts too as clicking ++). Now at least the car is easier to get into gear, but pedal rather sponge like and significant "judder" when setting off in 1st at lowish revs, and worse when reverses. Surely this can't be normal - it's a new car after all. Back to the dealer later in the week, but what do I do if I become unhappy with the dealer?
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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I have a right front lower ball joint very loose and wonder if that ball joint press fits into the lower "A frame". And how is it removed ? What size fork tool needed?
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My daughter just bought a 2002 Santa Fe LX which is drooling oil all over the alternator and everything else in that area. I found what (I think) is the source (but you have to be a contortionist to see it.) I haven't been able to find any good parts identification photos of that area, but I think that this is the bottom corner of the lower timing belt cover.
I guess the repair will require going through the first several steps used when replacing a timing belt. I don't plan on going any further than needed to fix this leak, though, since the timing belt was reportedly changed about 25K miles ago.
Before I start taking all this apart, I have a couple questions:
1. What might be holding this corner out, away from the block?
2. Is the timing belt cover supposed to snap into place over a lip on the block? Or, should it be sealed with gasket sealer -- or something similar?
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Experienced rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab.
The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but damn, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .
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Looking for the instructions on how to remove the lower power steering belt and replace it. We recently discovered the leak and I can't find any information on it.
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A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
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