Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Belt Squeal For About 10 Seconds When First Started Up In Morning
May 2, 2012
2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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I have a problem with my A/C Compressor. The other day while going down the freeway my belt started squealing for a few seconds then stopped. Yesterday when my wife was driving it did it again, and then another time while at idle and the engine struggled and almost died.
I went to look at it last night thinking maybe the belt was loose, but what i found was when the A/C Tried to engage, you here the click, and you see the compressor clutch jolt but not spin. It tries to engage 3-4 times before the system stops and the ac light blinks. Also found some burnt belt on the clutch pully. To me it sounds like the Compressor is locked up or frozen somehow inside.
My first instinct is to get a new compressor. Ive done a bit of mechanic work but not much on A/C. If i replace the compressor, do i just have a shop vac it out, replace, and recharge? car has 150,000 miles, do i need to replace any other components? 2002 V6 Camry....
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I've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
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My Superduty will randomly squeel for a few seconds or just one. It seems to happen randomly. The hub doesn't have play.
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I am hearing a slight squeal along with a slight pause between first and second gear. It only happens if I accelerate harder than usual. The tranny fluid was flushed and filled about 10k ago and fluid level and is still good. It's a 2002 2.7l fwd with 223,256 miles.
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Just replaced pads, rotors, caliper hardware, e-brake shoes and hardware and rear wheel bearing assembly on 2006 Santa Fe. Still get a high pitch sound after the car warms up in 5-10 miles. Sound is intermittent and gets somewhat louder as you drive.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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I need to replace the serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 but I can not seem to figure out how to get the tensioner off.
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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I just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
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The AC/power steering belt in my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L has intermittently squealed for some time, but lately the squeal has gotten louder. Initially it only happened when the compressor was on, but now it happens when the compressor is off. I have not experienced a loss in steering power but I did notice that the power steering fluid appears to be discolored. I have replaced the belt and re-tensioned it several times hoping this would solve the issue, but it hasn't. I intend to take the belt off again and see if the pulleys all spin freely. When I replaced the belt initially, everything did spin freely. My guess is that the power steering pump may be shot and is putting excessive load on the belt, however, there is no PS pump "whine" and again, no loss of power steering. It looks like I should also check for separated pulleys.
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I have an Air Conditioning issue on my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L 5-speed manual with 208,000km on it. I've never had any work done on my AC since I bought it new. Never had a problem with it and even as I write this is works just fine and blows ice cold air.
The problem started a couple of weeks ago when I noticed this very brief "higher pitched burping sound" coming from under the hood that lasts for just a second, and only when the AC is on and only if the RPM's are above idle. It sounds like a "bloop" for lack of a better description. When it happens, the RPM's drop one mark on the RMP gauge for a moment and there is obvious strain on the compressor. Air remains ice cold, everything still works, but this occurs every 30 seconds or so while driving.
While stopped I can rev the motor to just above idle, say 2000rpm and engage one of the defrost settings and get the "bloop" sound to occur almost every time. The top thicker AC pipe leading into the firewall from under the hood (the one that gets cold to the touch) seems to be part of the problem. At least if I am touching this pipe when it makes this "blooop" sound I can feel the vibration from the "bloop" in this pipe.
I've already had a garage replace my AC belt which I just had replaced a month ago, and checked the pullies and tension and all is okay. So it's definitely coming from the AC system and I can feel a vibration during the "blooop" sound on that pipe that gets cold and goes through the firewall. The sound does not occur when the AC is not on.
Also, when I am driving and it occurs every 30 seconds I do feel a slight decrease in the smoothness of the ride and like I said when it does this the RPM's will drop one mark on the gauge, which I'm assuming is the strain on the motor trying to engage the compressor when it's probably already up to pressure.
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I am having a problem when i go to start my car. I only seems to happen in the morning. The car will start and then 2 seconds later it will die. The only way i can get it to go is my jamming it in drive.. and then still it takes the car like 2 minutes before it will pick up speed and start driving normal.
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I have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
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My 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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MY 2003 Santa Fe is fwd with the 3.5 v6. While under normal conditions, the engine lost power and began "chugging" and "bucking". There was also a belt slipping "whine" associated with this problem. The problem continued for about two minutes, then corrected itself, and I was able to drive normally.
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