Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Auto Transmission Seal Keeps Blowing
May 9, 2013
I have a 2002 santa fe v6 all AWD. It has already had a used trans installed about 3 years ago. Just the other day the front main seal in the trans starts pouring. I took it to a transmission guy it cost me about 600 to have one put in it, he said that was the the problem he got it fixed he drove it and it was all good. Get in it driving it home and everything goes fine. Then after about 5 or 6 miles the trans goes crazy, so I am wondering whats up. I get out and look and its out of fluid because the seal done blew back out. I call him he said he fixed it not his problem it worked when it left his shop.S o my question is what would make the seal need replaced again 5 miles down the road is it a torque converter problem, or something in the trans bad, or did the guy just not do it right. He told me to bring it back and he would look at it but I've done spent all i had on it for him to fix it.
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I had the abs come on on dry pavement.. I changed the front ring gears,, Bought 2 new axles with ring gears all new on there.. fixed the issue.. Now i have a oil leak--transmission oil at the driver's side axle.. Is that the seal there in the trans that should be replaced? difficult? Why leak now if it wasn't leaking before..
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While driving the other day the automatic transmission in my 2003 Santa Fe slipped into neutral. I pushed the car home wherre it currently sits. I checked for error codes and found none. There is a grinding noise when I shift from any gear into park.
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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I'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.
I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.
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Replacing the crank shaft and camshaft oil seals on a 2001 - 2006 2.4L engine?
I'm in the process of installing a timing belt kit w/water pump, pulleys and all seals. My engine has 190,000 Km with no signs of oil in the timing area, but I figure the oil seal would be worn and or cracked/dried so it would make sense to change them, plus it was included in the kit.
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I have a 2001 4 cylinder Santa Fe. And atm I'm trying to replace the balance shaft oil seal but am having major problems getting it out.
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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As the title states I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 4x4 and lately the auto headlight / overdrive fuse keeps blowing. Both seem to function just fine but a couple of days later the fuse will be blown. I am not functioning the OD button when it blows so I'm guessing its something with the headlights. What else does that fuse protect?
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I have a 2008 petrol Santa Fe with an automatic transmission. Recently the transmission started to intermittently make a noise like a buzz. The noise most commonly occurs when first moving off in D or R and always stops when the transmission is put in Park.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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Ford Windstar 2001. Auto transmission oil leaking
What I have done : Refill and observed what happen, leaking still. I changed the gasket & filter. The leaking persists.
I found bulletin service about water entering, causing ECM to give wrong measuring stick level. I fixed, according to bulletin TSB 14-06-10. It is leaking still.
There is another bulletin about the same problem: TBS 05-14-5. This bulletin is about the transaxle vent being obstructed.It is leaking a lot of oil.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, has 99,000 miles 3.5L. After changing the alternator (alternator did die and drained my battery, the shop recharged the battery) now it seems be stuck in 3rd gear and does not wont to shift (it is a automatic). Fluids are good, transmission was flushed between 50-60,000 miles.
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I have an 03 santa fe 2.7L 170,000 miles (wifes car). Yesterday morning the ac was working fine and by the afternoon was not, only blowing hot air. I figured it was low on freon so bought some to recharge. Checked the low side pressure and it was high( off the gauge. >100). I also noticed clutch on compressor not engaged. I relieved some pressure and was only able to put in about half can of freon. Pressure went up to really high again. Still no clutch engaging. I thought maybe bad compressor, so i tried jumping it straight to battery, still not engaging. So my thoughts are either bad compressor or maybe not enough juice in battery to engage clutch (older battery).
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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I have a Hyundai Elantra XD 2004 FX hatch. About 3 weeks ago we noticed that there was an occasional rough change in the transmission. It happens mostly between gears 3 and 4, but can happen outside these gear also.
I have checked the fluid level and it always seems low. Over the last 3 weeks I purchased some transmission fluid (I used the Castrol brand for that specific car as looked up by the spare parts shop) and the problem hasn't got any better. On top of that despite adding a total of 800mL over the last couple of weeks it still doesn't appear to register between the cold and hot level on the dipstick.
I've looked around for leaks and can't seem to find any, there were a couple of drops underneath the car but I can't say for sure they are transmission fluid, I'll have to check this again soon (it's a bit difficult as it's not my car it's my wife's and when she gets home it's dark). Either way it's only a couple of drops at worst.
What this might be, and what the process I should follow to diagnose it is? If it's anything besides a leak in a hose then I'll definitely be taking it to a mechanic/transmission specialist.
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I have a 2001 Accent with a auto-transmission. The engine is a 1.6 and the car has about 100,000 miles on it. I had it since about 5 years with about 48,000 miles.
While driving cross country a couple years the car developed a whining noise at about 25 mph. As speed is increased, the whining became louder. I have driven it like this ever since, moderately, never pushing it. Starting a couple months ago, the noise has become louder at 40 to 45 mph and there is considerable vibration.
I know the tranny in this car is known for many different problems. I'm just wonder what the thoughts are of others more familiar with this transmission as to what could be the issues ( a certain bearing going bad between gears?, maybe not a tranny issues ...just random ideas on my part ).
BTW, I have never had an error code develop for this transmission.
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Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
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I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
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2001 LX 2.7L 4WD. Was driving home the other day. Stopped along the way, and when I restarted the car, the ac was blowing hot air. It was working perfectly up to this point. It did not fail with any noise, just quit working.
After some tests, I've realized that the clutch coil is open, and the clutch does not engage. It is getting power when the ac button is pressed. The clutch spindle turns manually, but there is some resistance - it does not spin freely. Also, there is a whining noise now when driving - even without the clutch actuated - I'm thinking its a bad bearing in the compressor.
Repair shops want to do the whole compressor replacement job. What are my chances of getting away with the coil and bearing replacement as stated in this thread Ac In-op ? Or is the clutch resistance and the whining noise a sign that the compressor is dead?
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