Its been getting quite cold here lately at night and in the morning when i go to the santa fe it makes a ticking noise for about 2-3 seconds and everything is fine again. I was thinking of dropping a quart of transmission fluid in the crankcase run it for a bit and change the oil?
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2003 f150 with the 5.4 and 128,000 miles with an engine tick. Its not an exhaust leak I know that for sure. It has came up in the last 20,000 miles. I've used motorcraft 5 20 w/ motorcraft filter. I've tried a kreen engine treatment with no change. Heres the description/syptoms:
-Slight clatter for 2-3 seconds upon cold startup (happens very rarely)
-top end ticking that is loudest and most noticable when warm (quieter when motors cold)
-not timing chains/tensioners etc because the noise is coming from the top end and most noticeable on the passenger side.
-at idle the tick is present-when you rev at idle, the noise goes away.
-Driving (or having the engine under any load for that matter) the noise gets louder.
-Anytime I accelerate, tow/haul, go up an incline the noise gets worse
-Sounds like a "whirring" sound from within the dash.
With all that said I am thinking the lash adjusters are getting noisy. I had a certified gm tech that has 40 yrs mechanic experience under his belt and builds prostreet muscle cars on the side look at it. He listened to it to it and that was his diagnosis as well as its not that bad so just live with it. The noise at idle doesn't bother me, its when im driving with the windows down. The noise drives me crazy and is a little annoying to me.
Heres a link to a video of the sound and keep in mind it is much louder now : Triton engine noise/tick - YouTube
My engine in my 2002 Santa Fe 2.7 v6 has been making a ticking sound that was especially pronounced when cold starting. It would quiet down somewhat when warmed up but still a slight ticking would be there. I thought it was the hydraulic lash adjusters. I know Hyundai's service site sates that a ticking can be heard if the factory filter is not used. I tried using the factory oil filter which did not make a difference. The car had about 85,000 miles on it and I always maintained it well as well as keeping up with oil changes. I took it to the dealer to have a repair performed related to corrosion of the rear trailing arms and had the tech check the engine noise.
It was determined that the cam chains have developed slack and were slapping on the cam chain guides which prevent the cam chains from popping off in case of slack developing which was the case here. The chain guides are made of some type of plastic material and according to the tech showed significant wear. This was all covered under the powertrain warranty. For those that are not under warranty any longer and are capable of doing their own repairs this is the list of parts that was ordered by the dealer. The parts in red are the culprits. The rest are gaskets and seals. I don't think this is an easy job.
6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
2.7L V6 here. It's got a loud ticking noise under the hood that sounds like it is coming from about the middle of the head closest to the front. It's been doing this for a long time now and is finally bugging me. The noise is related to RPMs meaning that as you rev the motor it gets faster (but not really louder). When I pulled the valve cover about a year ago both heads had lots of gunked up old burned oil which I cleaned up as much as possible. It doesn't throw any codes and runs just fine.
I'm about 99.9% sure I've got a collapsed lash adjuster(s). Is there a way to test it without pulling it? Can I pull the valve cover and have someone turn the engine over a few times to check for oil pumping from the lash adjusters? Is there a way to press it and see if it moves without pulling the cams? Any options to try and clean them while still in the motor?
2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise. I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.
My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it. They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms. Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks. I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship. I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.
I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know what to do anymore.
Link to photobucket video of noise : [URL] .....
FSI engine ... I am getting this ticking sound on a cold startup. I've had the timing belt tensioner fixed under warranty and it went away for a while. However now the ticking is back. To be honest its embarrassing to start my car cold in front of others.
View 4 RepliesI Have a ticking noise coming from the front when I first start up the vehicle and only lasts for 5-10 secs maybe 15 secs tops.. I assume I think its from the engine..
View 15 RepliesMy G1 prius (2001) started making a grinding noise when I start it up in the morning. There are no warning lights (yet) and it drives fine, but that noise can't be good -- something will fail shortly. I've searched the internet quite thoroughly and there was one similar problem reported, which ended up being linked to the ABS pump. The noise seems to come from the inverter, or somewhere under the inverter. I took a video of it and posted it here.
View 19 RepliesOh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
2004 Santa Fe, 2.7 L V6. The oil was changed approx 5-7k miles ago (not really sure as I bought it from someone else) and I just changed it today. There's a new knocking noise in the engine. I used normal castrol GTX oil, 5w-30.
I drove it about 20 miles and the noise is still being made, so it's not a circulation problem.
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
2005, 2.7l. FWD automatic, with 180,000+ miles.
A week ago it started making a random ticking noise I've never heard before. Today was the first chance I got to try and find it and I'm stumped on what could cause this.
The sound is a static or low voltage electrical discharge coming off the harmonic balancer. I can actually see the blue spark occurring at random intervals and locations on the balancer as the car is running.
Do i need to be looking for a bad engine ground? I'm having no other electrical problems. The car runs like a champ other than a minor oil and power steering fluid leak.
Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
View 4 RepliesSo on a cold start I keep hearing this ticking noise. Not every time, but more often than not.
I have two thoughts:
1) Low oil pressure causing timing chain tensioners to allow slack in the timing chain. Oil pressure builds up after about 1 minute of driving.
2) Oil Restricter in the valve cover starving one side of the valve cover?
Twice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
I bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
View 8 RepliesI have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
View 8 Replies2011 Santa Fe 3.5 L
I've isolated this rattle down to the cam phaser( CVVT) in the right cylinder head. It rattles bad for 2-3 secs on cold start or after it sits for 3 hours.
I've put in 5w20 synthetic oil and synthetic Lucas additive and it cleared up the noise for short interval start ups.
I changed the cam phaser in the right head with a used one ( 40k ) but it didn't make a difference. I should change out the attaching cam as well.
This morning during cold start up I noticed my check engine light was on constantly, I was able to get a OBDII scanner from a friend and perform a scan after work and brings up P0116, google search says HYUNDAI - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance.
I did notice the radiator fan seemed to be running all the time. I had a look at the coolant level and it's near the full level line (green color if that matters). My questions is it safe to still drive it to the dealer (30 km away)? Would this be part of the powertrain warranty?
Since my wife is out of town i took her car as I did not want to cause any damage.
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport - 2.4 AWD - mileage is at 67,000 km.