Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Accelerator / Idle / Throttle Stuck Fully
Jan 30, 2012
I was driving along nicely, then faced with a climb up the hill, I floored it ... the throttle stuck fully and the revs up to 5000 RPM and the governor kicked in, zoom ... hmmm zoom hmmm .. I was lucky cuz I shut off the engine and was able to coast back down to my driveway. No code reader, I decided "how hard can that be" since it happened once before and then worked ok for 6 months ... maybe a linkage, etc
A friend looked at it and tried the old process of elimition ... unplugging the MAss Air Flow connector ... trying it ... then the TPS on the throttle body. He suspected one or both. So I replaced them... happy to get the sucker started without revving uncontrollably. But the pedal was sticky, the idle speed too high and when you press the brake pedal ( and nothing else ) the car stalls, putt putt putt kerplunk. Starts up again tho. but impossible to drive like this. So I gets me a code reader .. follow the directions and this is what I get now
P0441 Evaporative Emission system Incorrect Purge Flow ( this is an easy one even for me ... the engine light came on last time I fueled up - gas cap was not turned enough ) no brainer
P0122 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0101 MAss or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / PErformance
P0222 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P2119 Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range / PErformance
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
P2422 Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve Stuck Closed
Puzzling since whatever broke started working again spontaneously last time. I figure, it cannot be all the above at the same time .. perhaps one of the early sensors?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
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I just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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Just got a 03 Used Santa Fe 2 weeks ago... 79,000 miles
1. Car "lurches" when at a complete stop w brake fully applied out of no where, so strong that I could easily rear end someone...
2. told dealership car was pulling to right, they said (after some teeth pulling) that a ball joint was replaced and Santa Fe's don't need alignments but in MA this is part of state inspection and considered a safety issue, needless to say, they say I have to pay for it...
3. Rear brakes seem to be hanging up...
All I want is the issues fix.
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My son was driving our 02 Santa fe 2.7 V6 Auto down to plymouth, half way down the engine gave a clinking sound (Rev Dependent). When he was doing 60MPH and pressed accelerator, no power. Stopped at road side couldn't restart. (no warning lights) RAC turned up and thought it was the cam belt and said engine right off. Got car towed home and just started to strip down for cam belt check. Belt seems OK. Timing marks line up.
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My 2005 Santa fe has a single knock when you press the accelerator, then between 60 and 70mph there is now a shake in the steering wheel. I have been told it is probably the CV joint and just wanted more input.
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My sister's 1991 Volvo 240 automatic. She is scared to drive it. When we push the accelerator fully down while in park the car makes a sound of accelerating hard and decelerating, it occasionally makes the sound of a backfire. All the sounds are coming from under the hood. When in drive it will not actually accelerate past first gear, it will buck back and forth, and still makes the sounds. Its almost like a shutter. Reverse is the same. We recorded the sounds.
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Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
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I have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
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I have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
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Codes P0210 and P0733 for throttle sensor and third gear mismatch came in.
Dealer is going to replace throttle position sensor and said the Hangar Bearing is bad needing replacement.
I was just curious how long those jobs take to do roughly?
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Its not my car but my sister in laws. She stopped by our house tonight to pick up her kids and when she put the car in drive it showed both drive and 2nd gear. we tried disconnecting the battery so she could at least get it home (3 min away) but it didn't change anything.
She left with it still in 2nd thinking she could make the short drive without any problems but half way home it shifted down to first and it wasn't even driveable. Everything i have read on the web (which was not really specific to the santa fe) was say that its stuck in safe mode. What could have cause the problem? So far no check engine light has come on.
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2003 Santa Fe 41,000 stuck in first gear.
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I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
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I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
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Getting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
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2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
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My wife has a 2006 santa fe 3.5l limited over the winter it started acting up went into limp mode and would only go 20mph so I went and picked up a TP sensor well it went out of limp mode so I never changed the sensor well last month it started doing it again so I changed it out didn't work!!! comes up with 2 codes sometimes p2110 and p2118 but normally its p2110 2 times.
If I hit the break it kinda bogs down and pulsates.i took it to my mechanic since I couldn't figure it out and with advice from a hyundai mech. He changed APS didn't fix it so we changed throttle body with used of course didn't work I checked wires and didn't fined any open circuits what are the chances that i got a bad APS or TPS...
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So it's dark out and very cold so I have done nothing yet to see if it is easy. However my '03 3.5 acts as if the rear brakes are stuck or the "E" brake is stuck. Put the car in in drive or reverse and you can feel the grab. Same thing in Neutral. Not sure what is really going on. Will get it jacked up in the morning.
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