I have a 2006 Santa Fe with the 3.5l, AWD, 5 speed auto, and 65,000 miles. Its a daily drive. Out of the blue it won't start. It cranks, but it won't start. The battery is strong and it has 1/2 tank of gas. I figured my code reader would solve the mystery, but it's doesn't produce any error codes. With no codes I don't even know where to begin.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 L. Front wheel drive. Cranks over won't start, replaced crankshaft sensor & camshaft sensor, no spark. Where do I go from here?
View 1 RepliesOften, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 3 RepliesFirst, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
I have a 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe that died on me while driving down my street. The engine sounded like it was loading up for about 1-2 seconds, then it died. It turns over but does not fire.
After a little troubleshooting, I have no spark in cylinders 1 and 4. I swapped the two coils thinking that I had a bad coil, but then the suspected bad coil created spark on the 2-3 cylinder side. So both coils work.
I towed the car to the shop and the mechanic after about 2 hours of billed labor, he is leaning toward a bad ecu. He said there also is no fuel metering from two of the fuel injectors. He checked the resistance on the injectors and said they are fine. He is thinking it is a control/command issue. The car has many other unrelated problems and I am not sure I want to spend too much more money on it.
I am skeptical about a bad ecu. Or sensors that may be causing my two cylinder no spark and alleged fuel problem?
Bought a truck from a guy the other day. Long story, but he was a con artist. Told me the battery was dead from cranking it, he couldn't hear the fuel pump so he thinks it needs a new one. Got it home, checked fpdm, it was unplugged. Plugged it in fp running now. Charged battery. Cranks slowly won't start. Appears the engine has been changed. Have codes P0201-208, all injector codes. Cranking it over reminds me of an older distributor type engine that if off its timing. But also of cranking with a low battery. There's a new starter on it already. I'm going to pull the converter bolts on the weekend to see if they may have bound the torque when they installed the engine. Injector codes?
View 4 RepliesHere is what happened. Pulled into gas station and car just died. Tried to restart and no fire. Cranks but no fire. Flat bed trip home and started to diagnose. Thought it was a bad fuel pump so I pulled and tested with a direct power and functions fine. Checked all fuses and relays, all seemed fine. checked for power at pump and nothing. Reset cut off switch and still nothing. Thought maybe ECM relay in the under hood fuse box was bad I borrowed the one out of a friends car. Nothing. Thinking ECM was bad put theirs in my car and got power to pump. So I put their car back together thinking mine was the ECM, then theirs won't start. The ECM relay i took from there car and put in mine blew when i tried to start my car. Got another ECM for my car and put in. Still no power at the pump. Here is the info about the car. 2001 Santa fe 2.4L auto. 80,000 miles. Timing belt, tensioner and all Idler wheels changed along with water pump at 71,000 miles. This car has been very reliable up till this point. No check engine light came on at any time..
View 8 Replies2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
View 7 RepliesMy Santa Fe quit running one day as I was driving. The fuel pump hums when I turn the key to on. The spark plugs look ok. One coil is not getting a spark. We replaced that coil and it still isn't sparking. The timing belt appears to be fine. I bought an OBD II reader, and it gave me the code for the camshaft position sensor. We replaced that today, but there is still no spark. I cleared the code and tried to start the car. There are no codes present so I am assuming I fixed the camshaft sensor issue. Next up on the list is to replace the wiring leading up to the ignition coil. I gave it a quick look over. It appears to be ok, but I might replace it anyway. The outer housing is cracked a little, but the car is 13 years old so I expect that. Before it died there was an awful sound coming from the engine. It sounded like a piston was rubbing/scraping. I am throwing that out there just in case it is related to my electrical issues. I have noticed other weird electrical issues as well. The middle brake light usually works, but sometimes it doesn't work and sometimes only part of it works.
View 4 RepliesWife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
View 11 RepliesCEL has been on for a few months, emissions testing came up so we read the codes (P0401 & p0401p) . We took it to the mechanic we always go to, a local one and they ran a full diagnostic and they said there were no leaks and no build up. Everything checked out fine and all they could suggest was replacing the Solenoid (Don't get me started on that) they said they were baffled (a wee bit worrying). So we did that and 20 minutes later the light was back on . In fact, every time we reset the code it comes on 20 minutes later.
The car is due back for Emissions in a month since it failed.
I have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
My friend's 2001 toyota RAV 4 battery went totaly flat and was taken to an electrician, he changed the battery but the car won't start, it cranks very as normal but no start, the horn blows quit strongly and the Battery is a new one (BOSCH) not rebulit, and the security light blinks. The thing is that the car started well before the battery went flat, so I am very sure it is not the starter or the ignition switch, that security indicator was not blinking before the battery change.
View 1 Repliesit's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Ranger is used for work to move furniture multiple times in a day. 7 weeks ago, I had moved a dryer w/ it, drove across town for a meeting, got back in & it refused to start & run. The same thing happened 3 days ago on a longer, fuller route w/ a trailer attached. Both times, the truck started & drove home ok AFTER sitting off waiting for my emergency ride. While I waited, I looked up the issue in the owners manual which told me to depress the gas pedal 1/3 to 1/2 & then turn the key in ignition. The first attempt did not work, so I repeated the steps, which started the truck & I was able to drive back. Both times, the truck started no problem the next workday. Does this sound like a problem worth fixing (for the age of the truck vs. cost of repair)? It has pull some weight, including on trailer, in between the two occasions.
View 1 RepliesI have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
We have 2 Hyundai a 2015 Sonta and a 2002 Elentra I am having problems with the 02 Elentra
I have a 2002 elentra that cranks but will not start it tries to but wouldn't start. It started fine before this and it did start once but ran really rough and only for a few seconds.
Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.