I've owned my 2003 Santa fe v4 for about a year and a half now. One thing that has always bothered me in the fact my air condition works on only two out of four levels. Level 2 and Level 3 work perfectly, but level 1 and level 4 dont work, and have never worked.
I've gotten a lot of things replaced, but never bothered with this as I barely use it anyways (windows down + high speed = just as good).
I have an Air Conditioning issue on my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L 5-speed manual with 208,000km on it. I've never had any work done on my AC since I bought it new. Never had a problem with it and even as I write this is works just fine and blows ice cold air.
The problem started a couple of weeks ago when I noticed this very brief "higher pitched burping sound" coming from under the hood that lasts for just a second, and only when the AC is on and only if the RPM's are above idle. It sounds like a "bloop" for lack of a better description. When it happens, the RPM's drop one mark on the RMP gauge for a moment and there is obvious strain on the compressor. Air remains ice cold, everything still works, but this occurs every 30 seconds or so while driving.
While stopped I can rev the motor to just above idle, say 2000rpm and engage one of the defrost settings and get the "bloop" sound to occur almost every time. The top thicker AC pipe leading into the firewall from under the hood (the one that gets cold to the touch) seems to be part of the problem. At least if I am touching this pipe when it makes this "blooop" sound I can feel the vibration from the "bloop" in this pipe.
I've already had a garage replace my AC belt which I just had replaced a month ago, and checked the pullies and tension and all is okay. So it's definitely coming from the AC system and I can feel a vibration during the "blooop" sound on that pipe that gets cold and goes through the firewall. The sound does not occur when the AC is not on.
Also, when I am driving and it occurs every 30 seconds I do feel a slight decrease in the smoothness of the ride and like I said when it does this the RPM's will drop one mark on the gauge, which I'm assuming is the strain on the motor trying to engage the compressor when it's probably already up to pressure.
I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
2003 Santa afe 2.7 litre: So for some reason the key ignition cylinder light no longer works, but no issues with the ignition at all. What powers the light, is there a specific part of the cylinder I need to check or replace or do I have to replace the whole cylinder. Would a another cylinder I pick up from the junk yard work?
View 11 RepliesI'm trying to troubleshoot an odd issue.
When the lever is in low beam mode I have no headlights or fog lights. (parking lights fine.)
When the lever is forward in high beam mode I have no headlights or fog lights. (parking lights fine.)
But if I hold the lever back in "fash the high beam" mode the high beams turn on. This got me home last night, but I don't know where to start looking for the issue?
Faulty relay? Faulty switch? Something else?
(2004 Santa Fe)
I have the 2017 SFS, I think it uses the same head unit as the 2016 SFS, but not 100% sure.
Anyway, noticed that the XM radio sound is louder than, say, FM/AM?
On my old car I had a pioneer head unit where you could adjust the input sound levels, based upon the FM levels. (ie, XM input is +2 vs. FM, and CD is -1, etc.)
I can't find this in the sound menu (seems very basic to be honest).
For about the past month, the AC in my 2014 SFS (33k miles) has been working poorly. It works okay about half of the time, but the rest of the time it's not blowing cold air. When this happens, I have to start hitting various buttons (turning AC on and off, turning inside air on and off, raising and lowering the temp), and it sometimes comes back on. Turning the car off and on also sometimes fixes it.
This has been in low 90s temps, but AC performance shouldn't be inconsistent like this. I have an appointment for next Monday at the dealer to get it checked out.
I have this problem with both the key fobs provided with my 2007 UK spec. Santa Fe 2.2crdi: The fob works only intermittently to lock/unlock the doors. I have replaced the CR2032 batteries, and the red light on the fob works as well. Is there a sensor that needs cleaning/adjusting?
View 1 RepliesThe A/C in my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder (~153,000 miles) only works on high as of this afternoon's commute. This seems like a common problem on older cars - what's the typical cause? Googling just gives me all sorts of answers and I would like to have some background before calling our mechanic.
View 6 RepliesThe Transfer case motor works fine changing from 2H to 4H and back to 2H. Verified the drive shaft is locked in 4wd. Drive shaft is free when switching back to 2H. Hubs work fine and no problems on the vacuum side. Garage is 50+ degrees.
Very occasionally I can get into 4 Lo. (Neutral - complete stop - brake pedal depressed). My main question is could the Transfer case motor be bad if it works in and out of 4H with no problem? I have not seen any answer to this question from my searching. Also, could the dash switch be going? Last summer this started and now seems to be getting worse. This weekend I could only get into 4L one time. Where to start checking (motor on transfer case or dash switch or other)?
I have tried rolling slowly, backing up etc... Problem is I can easily hear the motor work when going to 4H and going to 4Lo (when it is working) most times when it is switched to 4Lo, there is complete silence like there is no power to the motor at all. Tapping the motor does not work. I pulled the electrical connectors off the motor and all pins on both plugs look clean and new.
Thought to first check the dash switch but not sure how to check it. The motor could be also a problem? Is there a way to remove the motor and check it?
I want to get this fixed by the spring since I use 4Lo every weekend when launching the boat. (Never has been deep enough in the water to get close to the Transfer case)..
My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesAs the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
I've been searching for a few days, Can not find an exact same posted issue. 2004 Passat GLX 2.8 Auto FWD. The car starts great, will idle all day if you let it. Will move down the driveway or a small ways down the road and die. start it again, will start easy. die once it levels at idle. Also if you rev it, it will die within a second of revving. If you can get it high enough, say 4000+ it will die, but as the engine speed slows down it will catch again and come alive. and kinda repeat. will do that as long as you hold the gas down. after about 15mins of restarting, it will level out at idle and you can continue on your way. the fuel pump still runs for it's second after the engine dies, so i know it's still going. The car recently had new plugs put on, New brake switch, and the pcv hose that runs from passenger side valve cover to the rear of drivers side along the front was replaced with the same size rubber hose. it broke during new plug install. It idles smooth, drives good while acting right. but does have a noticeable power loss, but still very driveable.
View 1 RepliesWas going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
View 2 RepliesMy son just got a 2001 Explorer Sport. Among the minor issues that need taken care of is an interesting situation with the wipers. The wipers only function when you press the wash button. It operates fine with wash, it parks fine after wash cycle. However, I get no response from any settings in the normal wiper switch. Where to start looking? Bad connector? Switch? It does have a tilt wheel, wire pulled out of connector?
View 14 RepliesJust as I was about to start my '03 S10 I noticed that all of the gauges were not at zero and showed various levels even though the key was not inserted. When I tried to start it there was nothing. I charged the battery overnight and it started without hesitation; however, as I started driving, the gauges would stop working and then suddenly jump to life and, at the same time, all the idiot lights would light up! This carried on the entire 20 minute drive to work. Incredibly, none of this happened on the way home. My OBD reader reported zero issues. What's wrong with my truck?
View 3 RepliesLately I have noticed when I start my car in the morning it idles around 800 for about 30 seconds then levels out. No smoke or anything from exhaust. Then after driving for a bit and coming to a stop it does te same thing. It's very intermittent but have noticed it seems to be getting worse. Timing belt n water pump was done about 5 k ago. All new coils done under recall. With new plugs. Air filter was done n oil changed every 3k.. It's a 1.8t aww by the way with 97k on it.
View 5 RepliesSo, my FWD car has 3 tires that are getting close to replacement tread depth, and one that is only about half worn--it had to be replaced partway thru due to unrepairable damage. The question is whether this amount of difference in tread--maybe 1/8 inch--matters. I could buy 3 and save money or buy 4 and put one away for a good reserve tire. (The spare is different).
View 8 RepliesMy 2011 is at 45k miles now and I've just noticed that my radiator coolant is just under the 'low' mark and my inverter coolant is on the 'low' line. I've had all regular maintenance done, never done any of it myself just because I'm not confident enough in myself to think I won't mess something up. Should I be concerned about having 'low' coolant levels?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 elantra. I just got it back from having a new clutch put in. My passenger side headlight, low beam, no longer works. I tried two different new bulbs and it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car are working, including the high beam and running light on the passenger side. Is there something that would have been disconnected when they replaced the clutch? Is there something I should check?
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
View 4 Replies