Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: AC Stops Blowing Cold When The Engine Temp Get Hot
Jun 29, 2015
It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
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For the past week, my wife's 2004 GX A/C has been blowing hot air off and on. At first I thought this was due to low refrigerant but after pressure testing it appears to be full. Yesterday afternoon I was driving the car home and the A/C was blowing cool air then suddenly stopped again, I happened to look at the engine temperature gauge and noticed it creeping to "H". I shut down the air all together, pulled over and it cooled. The gauge actually stayed below the half way point the rest of the way home, until I had to stop at a light, then it slowly climbed up to the "H" again, the lowered as I drove to a cruising speed 55MPH. One home, I looked at the coolant reservoir and there was no fluid in it (not sure if this is normal) and there was no sign of smoke or fluid leaking. Could this be a thermostat issue, radiator issue, loss coolant issue???
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I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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2005 Isuzu Ascender 6cyl--auto-- all power--2 wheel dr-- Air cond blows very little air that is only slightly cooler than the outside temp. This only happens during hot weather( 90 Fahrenheit or higher ) after highway driving for extended periods of time, usually after a few hours. It works as it should during any other conditions. After letting everything cool down, it works properly. The dealer says they cannot get it to duplicate this action and therefor says there is nothing wrong with it. I first noticed this at about 50,000 miles because that was my first trip in it. It now has 70,000 miles.
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I have an 04 SF with about 160K on it. Normally, the engine temp is just under the mid mark. Yesterday, on my drive home, the temp climbed to just under the redline, then declined to slightly above the mid mark, repeating this process several times. Each cycle took about 2-3 minutes. I was driving uphill at 20-30 mph.
I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor had gone bad. But I checked the OBD codes and found nothing there referring to the sensor. This morning, I let it idle in the drive, and the radiator fan turned on after the engine warmed. Coolant was a little low (there seems to be a slight leak somewhere), and I added some.
What could cause the temp to cycle up and down like that?
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I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra 4 clyd. My AC will stop blowing cold air after driving for about 15-20 minutes. The light on the controls is still on and seems to be running. If I turn off the AC switch and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and turn it back on (can hear the compressor kick on) it will blow cold air again for another 15-20 minutes or sometimes less. If I turn the switch too early the compressor won't turn on. I've checked the levels on the freon and had the thermal amplifier replaced. Also the fan clutch was replaced, which I was told by the mechanic that would fix the AC problem.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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I've seen several posts regarding the warning lights, mine is a bit different. My Warning Light, Maint Reqd, ((!)), and engine light are all on. I've driven it a few times since and notice that after driving for 10 minutes or so, the VSC light also comes on. In one instance the brake light also came on. At that point my AC seems to also stop blowing COLD air. The motor blower motor still runs, but the air is no longer cold. Battery checks out. Coolant levels are good. Code indicated "something with the inverter cooling" according to local garage. Suggested I take it to the dealer. Scheduled for a trip to dealer tomorrow but wondering if there's anything I can/should do in the meantime.
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I have a 2005 Prius that financed from a small dealer last year. Currently has over 140k miles on it. When I bought it it had the Red Triangle and it worked fine until recently (about 2 months ago). Recently I've been having some problems. When I go at higher speeds I get the following sings come on:
1. Red Triangle
3. Orange check engine light
2. Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3. Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light
4. Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
When these lights are on, my AC stops blowing cold air. Sometimes when all these lights are on, the car will slow down and will not let me go past 37 MPH I have to then pull over turn the car off and then on, then the lights turn off and I can drive normal, on short trips that is.
Recently on a longer trip over 50 miles or so all the lights I mentioned came on plus the red break light on the left turned on with a continuous beep. We pulled off the HWY and turned the car off then on and the lights disappeared except for the big red Triangle that one is always on. We continued driving it but it kept doing it so we had to let it rest for over 30 minutes. We had to take it really slow and we finally got to our destination.
Codes P08A3 and P0A37 Prius 2005....
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My santa fe 125k on it engine start to blow little blue smoke when start up ...
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AC needed regassing on my phaeton, lasted over a year before another regas, then 3 months and its blowing warm again
my symptoms:
1)AC stops blowing cold a few months after AC recharge
2)When it was blowing cold most cold was through only one vent (the one to the left of the steering wheel), whilst it was getting weaker (vlowing warmer) the one vent was blowing cold rest were all blowing warm
3)Slight condensation settling in center of windscreen, especially after rain
4)Something rattly rolls across the inside dash on occasion when turning sharply!
the codes:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
defective or incorrect basic settings
00445 - Loss of Refrigerant
I imagine the compressor has a leak. Euro Car Parts will fit and gave the part number as 3D0 820 803T. I've got it booked into the local dealership but am worried about a ridiculous bill.
There's a couple of mechanics I could use locally I suppose but its a very rare care with a very complicated AC system I hear. Especially on the part numbers and where to get a cheap compressor (if indeed that is the problem) I've got the shareware version of VCDS so cant do complicated stuff I've read about basic settings for HVAC and I've run that didn't work with the V71 motor code.
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2001 F150 5.4 4wd - AC not working but when I turn the temperature dial to the blue side and turn on the fan, super hot air comes out of the vents or wherever I direct the fan to blow (Floor, defrost, etc) I know it shouldn't blow ice cold especially since my AC doesn't work but.....shouldn't I feel a temp change coming from the vents when I move temp dial from the red area to the blue? It's max heat wherever I have it set.
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On my way home from work I noticed that my heater was blowing cold air. then I checked my gauges and noticed that the temp gauge was moving toward hot. pulled over on side of road car died on me. Husband pulled car home replaced top water hose. Now my car will not start.
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My engine in my 2002 Santa Fe 2.7 v6 has been making a ticking sound that was especially pronounced when cold starting. It would quiet down somewhat when warmed up but still a slight ticking would be there. I thought it was the hydraulic lash adjusters. I know Hyundai's service site sates that a ticking can be heard if the factory filter is not used. I tried using the factory oil filter which did not make a difference. The car had about 85,000 miles on it and I always maintained it well as well as keeping up with oil changes. I took it to the dealer to have a repair performed related to corrosion of the rear trailing arms and had the tech check the engine noise.
It was determined that the cam chains have developed slack and were slapping on the cam chain guides which prevent the cam chains from popping off in case of slack developing which was the case here. The chain guides are made of some type of plastic material and according to the tech showed significant wear. This was all covered under the powertrain warranty. For those that are not under warranty any longer and are capable of doing their own repairs this is the list of parts that was ordered by the dealer. The parts in red are the culprits. The rest are gaskets and seals. I don't think this is an easy job.
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When its under ca -5degrece my oil lamp lighten up ca 8 sek. My oil pressure at warm motor is 3.3 bar, what is wrong...
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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
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My 99 Ranger ac stops blowing when the engine is under a load. It works fine otherwise. What's the fix?
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Not sure if it did it last summer, but I have noticed that with the AC on when I come to a stop the RPM drops to right around 500 for a second and car has a light shudder (no doubt from the RPM being too low). Since it is only with AC on and for such a short time, is this a sign of something out of whack, or is it normal?
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