Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: AC System No Longer Holds A Charge
Aug 7, 2014
This is for my 2005 SF with the 2.7L.
My AC system no longer holds a charge and I'm looking to replace the parts myself and have a professional service it after I finish.
I'm looking for recommendations for reliable brand of compressor. Also, other parts I should be looking at replacing to get another 9 years out of it.
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When I went to put my car into gear today (automatic gear box, 2004) the gear shifter was very hard to move, as if whatever automated its ease is no longer functioning. And i'm pretty sure the steering and brakes are not performing with their power aided functions either. Is this a set of servos all on one line somewhere? Fried? Just a fuse?
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2003 Santa afe 2.7 litre: So for some reason the key ignition cylinder light no longer works, but no issues with the ignition at all. What powers the light, is there a specific part of the cylinder I need to check or replace or do I have to replace the whole cylinder. Would a another cylinder I pick up from the junk yard work?
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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I just purchased a 2005 GT Hatch 5 speed. I've noticed that when I up-shift, it holds the revs. I can live with it if I have to though. This is my 4th car that's a standard so I doubt its user error. Anyway, if you guys think its a feature that I can shut off that would be cool. If not no worries.
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My 06 santa fe ABS system keeps kicking on every so often. I removed each sensor and cleaned it but it still keeps happening.
I noticed behind the front drivers side wheel on the gear the ABS sensor is reading. One of the teeth on the gear is missing possibly broken off, would this cause the ABS to get a faulty ready and kick on ?
How could I remedy this would out replacing the axle? Also my ABS and TCS lights do come on intermittently.
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Just got done replacing a compressor, dryer, and orifice tube, flushed all hoses and the evaporator and condenser, blew everything out several times with compressed air, hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for almost an hour and when I went to put in the new freon, it won't pull it into the system. Low side jumped up to 100psi when I opened the valve to the can and the high side is reading right about 100psi also but the freon is not flowing into the system. Without tearing everything back apart, I thought I would check what could be the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor is running.
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I have a strange problem with my 2001 Santa Fe GLS that I can't put a finger on.
With my AC running, whenever the condenser fan (the one on the driver side) comes on, the electrical system seems to short out briefly (1/2 sec) - all lights go dimmed, the vehicle bucks - very scary when driving. Sometimes the engine sometimes shut off if idling.
I've changed the AC compressor (twice) and changed the entire condenser fan assembly to no avail.
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So after struggling with a coil spring issue, I finally got my car all fixed up. To test out the new shocks, I drove it around the block. All of my hard work and dedication was rewarded with a stinky and smoking engine compartment.
Upon inspection, I determined that there was a transparent orange fluid leaking down onto the exhaust system. My first thought was coolant, but I checked the coolant tank and the fluid is green. I suppose it could be oil, but it has a low viscosity. There is enough fluid leaking to cause a small puddle under the engine after it's warmed up and I can see a trail of fluid coming up the driveway.
With the use of a mirror, I could trace the fluid up to the exhaust manifold on the rear of the engine. Obviously the manifold does not contain fluids, so I assumed it must be coming from the intake manifold or a cracked hose and dripping onto the exhaust. I didn't see any cracked hoses.
Is there anything else it could be besides the intake manifold? I'm hoping it's just the gasket...but I don't understand why the gasket would suddenly fail.
Here's a pic looking down onto the intake manifold bolts and the exhaust manifold...
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Had a little fender bender. Right after that i noticed the battery red light was on. When I got it home I took the solenoid off the firewall (all the battery wires meet here). When you put 12 volts to the small terminal, the solenoid pulls in and the two big terminals are connected together. That works. When installed on the truck and startup, I have no 12v voltage at the small terminal. Don't have a diagram, but service manual says something about fuse #14 under the dash feeding the "battery cutout".. Checked that fuse and its o.k. .... where does the 12 v signal to the solenoid come from ? I assume somehow it triggers after the alternator starts charging ?
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Back in March I started a thread regarding my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 which would not start after a spark plug change.
After a ton of research, & a smoke test on the intake I came to the conclusion that there was an issue with the throttle sensor as I unknowingly opened it when I was removing the intake to get to the last bolts behind the manifold. Shortly after my post, I decided to bite the bullet & buy a junkyard TB out of another Santa Fe 3.5.
After installing the new TB, the car now starts but runs extremely rich. I am now getting the code p2135 for Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.
Luckily up until this point I haven't needed the Santa Fe as it is mainly a winter vehicle. However, winter is quickly approaching & I would like to have her running before the snow starts to fly.
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I brought my 2012 Prius in on St. Patrick's Day for routine scheduled maintenance and was informed about the recall--I hadn't even known yet. I was told it would just take an additional 45 minutes for the software update--no big deal. Except that it was.
They said the computer that was hooked up to my car crashed during the update, and my car computer would no longer recognize the hybrid system. They had no explanation for the crash and said their computer had a full battery, etc. so it didn't make sense, but they would call Toyota to find out way to do and in the meanwhile I would have a rental.
It is April 7 and I still have the rental. They said the part needed, a new computer, is on backorder. They hope it will be in by the end of April but there are no guarantees.
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I had a remote start installed on my santa fe and initially it worked great. Recently it stopped working correctly. The car still starts but my heat/defrost will no longer turn on. I have tried every combination possible but when I get in the car the heat is turned completely off and will only turn on when I put the key in the ignition and manually start the car.
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I have noticed a mid-pitched humming noise in my '02. I first noticed it about a week after getting four new tires put on it. It is speed dependent, and is most noticeable at about 35 mph.
Somehow I have gotten it in my head that the car might be stuck in "battery charge" mode. I can't tell easily because my car has a permanent power steering problem so I don't have the charge/power car diagram on my dash. I can still feel a difference when I shift into "B" when going downhill.
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I have a 2001 Durango. My one year old battery suddenly began to lose its charge last month if the car sat for two or more days. A local repair shop determined the alternator was okay, but the battery was bad. The parts store agreed and replaced the battery under warranty.
A week later the new battery also went dead after the car had been parked for two days. I then took it to a Dodge dealership that kept it for over a week, but couldn’t find anything wrong. Even after being parked over the weekend, it started right up for them.
After getting it back home I drove it for three days. I parked it for two days, and the third morning the battery was completely dead. After charging with a trickle charger for a couple of hours the car started fine.
I bought the car new and have kept up on all the maintenance. It’s parked in my driveway the same way for over seven years with the doors locked. What’s going on?
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Guess my cables have stretched. I just adjusted my handbrake cables and I noticed no matter how strong I apply the handbrake and it holds the car however on both driver's and passenger side the outside pad does not touch the rotor. I'm guessing that the inside pad moves and holds enough, however, i would like the brakes to operate properly. when is the handbrake applied should both pads apply pressure to the rotor?
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My silverado no longer starts and the fuel gauge no longer reads. so far figured out that there is no power to the fuel pump and sending unit. Looking for an engine wiring diagram for this truck with the 6.0 engine?
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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I have a 2010 VW GT with the 6 speed manuaI. The shift action feels longer and sloppier than the action was on the five speed from my much missed 2002 VW Passat wagon (only option the v6 engine). I'm considering a short throw shifter and would like to understand the pros and cons, and which shifter would be the best one for my car.
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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I have a 2006 elantra. I just got it back from having a new clutch put in. My passenger side headlight, low beam, no longer works. I tried two different new bulbs and it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car are working, including the high beam and running light on the passenger side. Is there something that would have been disconnected when they replaced the clutch? Is there something I should check?
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