I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
View 8 RepliesOn my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesI'm driving a 2002 Santa Fe (4WD, 6-cyl) without AC. The problem is that the compressor is dead and needs to be replaced - it was diagnosed by both a Hyundai dealership and a local repair shop. I understand that when replacing the compressor, you want to replace the receiver/drier and expansion valve and clean the system to remove any metal shards in circulation. What is unclear is whether or not the condenser also needs to be replaced. This is complicated by the fact that the receiver/drier is physically a part of the condenser. While shopping around, some repair shops said I would have to replace the condenser as well, and others did not.
My questions are these:
- Can I just have the desiccant bag inside the drier replaced, or do I need to replace the entire condenser + receiver/drier unit?
- If replacing just the desiccant bag is an option, is it still smarter to replace the condenser as well in case there is compressor debris lodged in there that can't be flushed?
03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
View 12 RepliesMy mother in law has a Santa Fe 2004 with a ~2.4. The AC compressor quit working over the winter. The AC compressor does not react to turning on the AC button.
I checked the fuses. I also tried changing out the AC relay with another one and it still didn't respond. The relay also didn't sound as though it was clicking over. The AC indiacator light is working.
Could it be the actual button has failed or is there a way to check if the button is functioning?
How does the compressor know to engage? Is there a place I can test 12v at the compressor?
2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
I have a '03 V6 3.5 Santa Fe. The clutch on the AC compressor went out and was making a loud racket. When I was pulling the compressor off I noticed the wire harness connection to the compressor was damaged. Either by me or previous change.
So the end of the harness on the car side is damaged. Can a new one be purchased and spliced? I cannot see where it goes to see if it can be replaced.
After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
Recently I began hearing noise such as a rattle on the right front of the vehicle. It is a 2003 SF 2.7L front wheel drive with almost 180k mi. At first I thought the noise was from the Serp belt tensioner. Now I believe it originates from the compressor clutch.
Does the a/c clutch have a history with its bearings ? Is the clutch replaceable on the compressor or is this a single unit replacement ?
I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry with about 110,000 miles. About a year ago the check engine light came on and indicated a problem with the rear O2 sensor (the exact OBD code escapes me right now). Had the sensor replaced and a month later the same one failed. Replaced it again and 2 weeks later it failed again. I am now on the fourth rear O2 sensor and the check engine light is on again with the same code. So, clearly the problem isn't the actual sensor. I have heard it might be the ECU, but what else could be causing this type of problem?
View 4 Replies2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
AC stop working after an alternator replacement ?. I tried crawling under the truck to see if the mechanic didn't plug the compressor back in as he said he had to take it off to get the Alt out, but it looks like the plug is fine. Would the refrigerant have leak all out when he took it off ?. Should I try to re - charge myself with Red - tek kit from Canadian tire ?. The compressor will spin easy enough when I reach down and move it by hand but will not engage when I press in the AC buttons.
View 4 RepliesHave an issue with my front air con not working.....
When you start the car there is a rattle/squeaking noise, this sounds like a worn pulley, when you press the air con button to turn it on the noise stops. It does not make any sound changes to the unit/engine to indicate the compressor engages and the is no cooling from the unit.....
Is it a new compressor or is there a common fix for this issue?
My air con is not working, it started making an oscillating sound and not getting cold, which I think is the compressor. Garage couldn't find any leaks using a dye. So I asked my mechanic to change it. The generic part was a little over 300 but when he went to fit it it had the wrong number of mounting holes. Think he said it had three instead of the four from the original part? So he was not sure it was a suitable part, so didn't fit it. Because in the UK the CM model started selling in 2006 not 2007 it's possible he got confused and got a part for the older model? The car is definitely a CM!
View 4 RepliesLooking for a detailed procedure for replacing the A/C compressor on 2001 Taurus with a 3.0L Vulcan engine (any references would be also useful...) ? I have the Haynes manual but the procedure there is not detailed enough to me. It seems that I have to remove the PS pump to get to the compressor, or the passenger side cooling fan, but the Haynes manual does not mention them.
Should I also replace the Accumulator, or not necessarily? I have heard some people writing that it has to be done, while others say that it is not necessary.
My AC stopped working, not sure when as we hadnt used it since last fall and I tried it once over the winter to keep it lubed up.
Tried so far:
Pressure switch on the evaporator - wont turn on the compressor. Had the truck running with AC running(warm air) jumped the connector with no result.
Air clutch spacing - currently at .032 is this too much? If I read it right, it should be .020? Would that cause it to not engage at all? What would my next step be to try?
I have leak coming from compressor area. Detached lines seals appear good , suction hose y block has possible leak is this common??
View 2 RepliesMy dad bought this car some time ago and it didn't have those parts (AC belt pulley, belt and High line cap, that sky-blue thing) but we didn't care, looks like the previous owner didn't use the AC system that much. Well, I had some time to put things to work, so I put the AC belt pulley, bought the belt (4PK810), found the cap and guess what, the AC works just fine!
But... there's this noise coming from the compressor ONLY when the AC is off. When I turn the AC on, that "thing" on the compressor starts to rotate and the noise disappears, and it comes back when it stops.
The compressor's clutch is at fault here? I've read a bit about it and maybe is that thing.
Or maybe the compressor just needs some maintenance after not being used for so long... What do you think?
The compressor is a HCC HS-15, like THIS ONE. The model is different, mine being CD1AA-03 and that one AKTCC-04.
I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
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