Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: AC Compressor Replacement - Shaft Seal Is Leaking
May 13, 2011
After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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Replacing the crank shaft and camshaft oil seals on a 2001 - 2006 2.4L engine?
I'm in the process of installing a timing belt kit w/water pump, pulleys and all seals. My engine has 190,000 Km with no signs of oil in the timing area, but I figure the oil seal would be worn and or cracked/dried so it would make sense to change them, plus it was included in the kit.
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Passat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
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Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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I'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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How hard is it to replace the front diff cover seal in an 03? Mine is leaking like a sieve... On a better note, it's the only leak I could find under my new-to-me Explorer.
Also found a broken coil spring in the rear, explains why it's leaning to one side. That is getting fixed later this week.
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The rear hub outer oil seal on my 05 350 is leaking. The 350 Super Duty Twin Cab was never imported into the UAE so can I use the same seals as the Excursion or another Ford vehicle?
Failing that do we know the name and part number of a seal manufacturer whom I might be able to source from in Dubai? Ford don't make the seals them selves so there must be an alternate source for these things surely?
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My oil pressure light came on about a week ago (while I was out of town), so I took it to the dealer who replaced the oil pressure sensor. I got home and noticed oil was leaking. Brought it to my mechanic who said it was probably just residual oil (same thing I found on this forum), but he put dye in the oil just to be sure. I brought the car back today and it is definitely leaking oil from the engine. He said it was probably the main seal at the back. It is now at the local dealer who has said that the seal is covered by warranty.
Could the original problem have been caused by the leaking seal? The car was originally leaking oil and the oil pressure light would come on sporadically. Generally the light would go off when I accelerated. I realize that these sensors tend to break pretty regularly, but it was not a warranty item and this seems like a pretty big coincidence to me. Maybe it is just a coincidence ?
2011 Santa Fe ltd, awd, 69000 miles, 3.5 L.
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My 2010 Santa Fe is leaking oil. I bought it in April & it has under 8,000 miles. After parking the car, I see oil spots that range in size from a Silver Dollar to a CD after a few hours.
First, the dealer said it was a cracked oil filter cap, so they replaced that...I brought it home and it was still leaking.
Brought it back to the dealer, and now they are saying the Timing Chain Cover Seal is leaking.
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Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
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I looked under my truck and noticed a Antifreeze Leak I looked under the truck and noticed the antifreeze leaking around the crank shaft. I have never seen a leak from that area. I haven't pulled anything just want a good direction before I start pulling parts off.
I looked up top didn't see any hoses leaking. looked all around the block. the only place I can see it coming from is behind the crank shaft pulley somewhere.
2001 F150 XLT 4X4 ....
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I replaced the front mail seal on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra. It was running beautifully until I put it gear to take a test drive. It dumped half the oil in about a minute. After reading online that there may be a problem with the thrust bearings, I pulled the oil pan and found a thrust bearing in the pan. Is this something I could fix without pulling the engine. Every thing looks good and there are no metal shavings or signs of wear. The car has 170k.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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I have a 2005 crdi diesel santa fe that i have a strange problem with it starts up first time no problem in the mornings and can drive all day long. However if i switch it off and leave it sit for about a half hour no way will it start again until it cools off. It will start though with a push start instantly!
I got only one fault code P0340 cam shaft sensor fault, i replaces sensor and made no difference. Is this a common fault???
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, I've had my Auto Transmission Speed Sensor replaced and will have the output speed sensor replaced to have speedometer/odometer and cruise control fixed. While having the first sensor replaced my mechanic noticed the Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector (the plug on the wiring harness) was cracked. I've been looking everywhere for this connector. I don't want to buy the complete wiring harness because I've heard it is very expensive. I want just the connector. What is the part number of just the connector?
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So I own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7. I am the fourth owner and currently there is 168k miles on the vehicle. I purchased the car with around 110k miles on it and have had it for nearly 5 years now.
Aside from general maintenance I have never had a single issue with it, until last weekend. On the way back home from a road trip I began to notice a whining sound, and then very abruptly the car shook and I lost control of the vehicle and had to pull over on the shoulder. I was on the highway and was VERY fortunate to not have gotten into an accident.
After inspecting carefully I discovered my 4WD Drive Shaft was literally hanging by a thread. The knuckles were ruined, and in the process my Transfer Case and Exhaust System were all severely damaged.
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