Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: ABS Would Kick On For No Reason
Mar 26, 2014
I have a 2003 Sante Fe, 245,000 miles mostly problem free... been a good vehicle! About 3 months ago the ABS would kick on for no reason, tracked it down to a broken ABS ring. Disconnected the ABS by pulling the fuse until I could save up for the new axles. Two weeks ago as I was pulling into my driveway there was aloud bang and the pedal went to the floor. Come to find out the passengers side brake pad broke and the metal backer actually came out of the car. Luckily, I was home when this happened. Traced this back to a sticking passenger caliper, not the piston but the pins, pulled out and cleaned and lubricated the pins, installed new brakes and the new axles with ABS rings (not happy to toss out good axles for the ring.
Anyway, brakes were great for 3 or 4 weeks then out of the blue the brake light came on. Brakes felt normal, fluid level full, no leaks and parking brake is disengaged.
Today my girlfriend was driving it and she said heard a weird metal sound and then the petal went to the floor, it would stop but she had to really push hard... I should also mention that the rear brake lines were replaced several months ago and nothing is leaking.
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I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 that has ABS and Traction Control. A problem has developed and not sure where to look for a fix. At random times the ABS seems to actuate itself for no apparent reason. It happens pulling into parking spaces, turning the wheel sharp in general at low speeds. I have even had it happen at low speed while on the gas. At various times the ABS and TCS lights come on and stay on for periods of time. I have checked the brakes themselves, but I feel the problem is in the ABS/TCS system. No obvious things wrong with the speed sensors themselves.
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Just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7L at 157k miles due to the engine cutting out for seemingly no reason when I reached a stoplight, no codes were recorded though. Unfortunately, the frequency of cut out started to increase in recent years, to the point where it died on our local beltway in traffic at speed - too dangerous. The CPS on the 2.7L is accessible from under the front of the car; it's positioned on the engine just over the starter (front face of engine) and a closer to the transmission side of the engine. I've seen threads here where folks have replaced the CPS without removing the starter, but in my case I removed it because I just couldn't reach above and over the starter to remove the single bolt holding the CPS.
Removing the starter is easy enough, just two bolts holding the starter body and one bolt connecting the battery cable plus a couple of smaller wires. Be careful enough to clean around the CPS first before removal. When I removed the CPS I was surprised to find what you see in the attached close up photo of the old and new CPS's - the insulation around each of the three individual wires entering the CPS body from the connector was badly frayed, just crumbled off to the touch.
Lots of heat and road dirt over time degraded that wiring to the point that all three wires were bare and touching each other intermittently and shorting out the CPS signal to the ECM: No CPS reference signal means the engine will cut out until it gets restarted. Anyway, check out the photo and note the red circle I annotated to show wiring damage. The new part shown with the old for comparison in photo was only $30 at Advance Auto Parts, might be one of those sensors worth replacing to prevent trouble as the vehicle ages.
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I have a 2009 SantaFe Diesel and am having a few issues.
Firstly, of late it has been running rough when I back off the accelerator but hold the current speed. Almost like a mis-firing feeling. AT about 1500 RPM
Secondly, I was driving down the freeway recently, the car started to labour going up a long hill, so I tried to kick it back a gear using the accelerator but it wouldn't do it. It stayed in top gear and struggled. I had to manually do it with the gearshift.
About 12 months ago, I was having problems with the car completely losing power on a quick takeoff from standing still (say at a roundabout) but that seemed to fix itself.
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I'm at 3,200 miles on my 2010 Santa Fe and all is going well except for the fact that every now and again, the interior windows fog up. And I'm not talking about regular fog...this stuff has earned the nickname of ninja fog because it comes out of nowhere and it's impossible to get rid of. It's only happened twice but it doesn't indicate a fault of the automatic climate control. The first time was my fault. I was behind an old Thunderbird and hit the recirculate button to get the stink out. I passed the 'Bird but forgot to turn it back to fresh. The fog was so heavy that it took running the defrost on full blast for [b]15 MINUTES to clear it.
It happened again tonight but came totally unprovoked. I keep the system on automatic and set between 70 and 74 F and tonight I had it set on Auto at 72 when it happened. I was sitting at a red light and all of a sudden, POOF! There it was. Came literally out of nowhere and after running the defrost on high for the rest of the drive home, even the passenger front window was barely half-clear. I noticed the outside temperature gauge went from 44 to 41 - very quickly so I'm wondering if a quick external temperature loss causes the relatively warm inside of the glass to fog up.
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I recently bought the Santa Fe Sport 2017 model. The alarm just keeps going off for no apparent reason. It seems like any wind or a car driving on a street will set it off. Is there a place where the alarm sensitivity can be adjusted?
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I have a 01 GrandAM 3.4. I have a reoccurring problem with this car. The car will randomly not start, and die while driving. Some days I can drive the car with no problems, and some days it will only have starting problems. These problems are very random. When the car doesn't start it will crank and turn over however the fuel pump will not kick in. You can turn the key on and off several times, and it will fire up. This DOES NOT seem to be a problem with the passlock theft system. The security light has never came on, and you do not have to wait any amount of time for the car to start, you only have to flip the key back and forth several times. The car after running will occasionally die, after the car dies it will usually start back up on the first try. I am very puzzled by this problem not sure if it is the ignition switch, fuel pump, or something in between.
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Jow to best remove the passenger side kick panel on my 2001 superduty. There is a plug I am looking for to make the clearance lights work. It looks like the kick panel continues under the door threshold. I don't want to remove any more than I have to.
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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01 f250. Just bought from my brother. 140000 miles. Immaculate. Truck will die for no reason. Running down the highway, or sitting at a red light. Fires back up. Sometimes have to crank a few times. He has had at a mechanic and everything checks out good. Since birth its only had royal purple that he has changed every 5000 miles as well as all filters. Where do I start?
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When driving do you feel the gas engine kick in and out, we do to a fair degree, I thought this type of transmission was smother. This really drives the wife nuts and I'm not sure if it's correct or not.
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I tried everything I can think of and the ac clutch still does not kick in. This is for my 2003 Camry with a 4 cylinder. I'm thinking perhaps the low pressure switch may be bad. Can't find it, where is the low pressure switch located if there is one.
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AC compressor won't kick on at all. I know the system doesn't have much refrigerant (just replaced the line that runs from the expansion valve to the bottom of the drier, the drier itself, and the condenser)..
Evacuated the entire system with a pump. Tried putting refrigerant in and the pressure on the gauge goes up immediately into the yellow/red...jumped the connector on the high pressure switch and the fans came on, shouldn't the compressor kick on too?
Checked the 14 pin connector on the fcm for 12V...PIN number 8 is barely seeing any power which leads to no power getting to the compressor...
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So it is no secret that our fans go out and need to be replaced.
There are suppose to be two temperature thresholds, the first at which the fans turn on at LOW speed, then another higher threshold where the fans turn to HIGH speed.
My fans basically only kick in at the higher temp threshold and into HIGH, the cooling system is skipping over the LOW threshold and fan speed.
Would this be an issue with the fans or the controller?
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I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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So I'm trying to figure out my brake problem and trying to get my ABS to kick in.... Someone suggested I try doing a quick stop to get my ABS to kick in to see if my brake booster is working or not.
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Since I got my Tig a couple weeks ago ive noticed occasionally when stopped at a red light (usually right after I stop fully) ill feel like I've been tapped from behind slightly. Just a lil thump forward. I didn't notice it every time though. Today, while sitting at a light I was able to figure out how to reproduce it. Id like to see if you all have felt the same and if you can reproduce it like I can.
While at the light hold the brake pedal as lightly as you can while still remaining stopped. then, press it down relatively firmly. Once you push down on it, you should feel that thump. loosen up the brake a bit and then repeat. It will do it again.
I am assuming this is a set percentage of brake pressure or pedal degree that is disengaging the clutches fully. Well, that's the most I can speculate actually..just a wild guess.
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2002 Golf IV 1.9 TDI 4motion 130 hp.
Sometimes (not always) when cornering to the left in a curve the ESP activates even on dry asphalt. A bit annoying.
What I have checked so far; tire pressure, no fault codes on abs sensors, wheel alignment just done (but didn't work). Abs, esp and awd works as normal...
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i just wanted to test out my car today... i was going about 85mph... switched from the regular "D" to "S" and floored my car... redlined at S5.... going about 120mph... but never kicked into 6th gear.
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The ABS will kick in on it's own on the left front tire? I drive on the highway every day, and on an on-ramp, going approximately 40-50mph, making a wide right turn, the left front wheel will activate ABS on it's own. If I accelerate throught the whole turn, this does not happen. It is not wet outside, there's no visible liquid or oil on the pavement.
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