Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: ABS Control Module Was Leaking / Brakes Felt Spongy When Applied
Feb 9, 2013
I drive a 2002 Santa Fe with 121k miles. Last week the red brake light came on in the dash that usually indicates the parking brake is activated, though it was not. Checked fluids, brakes worked fine, so I took it to the dealership to have it looked at.
They claimed "the ABS control module was leaking" and needed to be replaced in it's entirety...almost $2000, and they said that is the reason my brakes felt spongy when applied. I agreed they did. I decided to decline letting them fix it since my brakes had worked fine beforehand.
Upon picking up the car I notice the red indicator light is still on, and now the brakes need to be applied all the way to the floor to have any stopping power at all. It seemed to get worse after 2 days, I checked the brake fluid and it was empty! So I replaced the fluid, yet the brakes still function VERY poorly.
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In cold weather (10-15 deg.) the brakes in my 2009 Santa Fe are very soft/spongy. I had to depress the brake pedal nearly to the floor before it would stop on dry pavement. Once it's warmed up, the brakes seem fine. Pumping them seems to work but they are not back to their normal condition.
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So I've got spongy brakes on my 2003 Prius. I've flushed the whole system twice. Replaced the hoses, pads, rotors, shoes, and drums. Still spongy. I'm not sure what to check next. No lights or codes. I'm leaning toward the master cylinder. You can pump the brakes up when they become spongy and they hold solid. If you practically stand on the brake pedal it will slowly bleed down. This tells me the fluid pressure must be escaping somewhere. I don't want to just blindly replace parts.
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Same car I posted about a couple of days ago. It was running fine. My son was driving on the freeway, and tapped the brakes to disengage the cruise control, and the transmission just stopped working. It was not in gear after doing this and the transmission would not engage. It was nothing like a slipping transmission. The engine just revs with no resistance.
Got it towed home and checked the codes: P1529, generic 'Check Engine' light from the TCU; P0760 Transmission solenoid C and P0765 Transmission solenoid D. I have googled these codes individually, but not sure how they tie together.
Oh, I overfilled the transmission. Probably a quart too much because I didn't know how much extra I needed for the torque converter. I doubt this is the issue, but I will drain the excess. Where to check next?
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My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
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I have recently had the rear brakes on 2001 Aurora replaced. When car is driven about 20 minutes, there is a rubbing sound from the rear when the brakes are applied. I have taken the car back to the shop and they said for some reason the new pads were worn and put new pads on thinking it was bad pads. The noise continues. Is there anything special that must be done on this car when the rear brakes are serviced? Are there special type of brake pads that must be used for rear disc brakes? I am just going to sell the car if I can't figure out how to fix this problem soon.
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My F-250 7.3 liter diesel is eating up front tires. I have tried new upper and lower ball joints, new shocks, alignment, and new tires (again). Tire wear is on the outside right and inside left. At times when the brakes are applied it causes a shake and vibration. One mechanic though I should get the leaf springs redone.
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Looking for instructions how to 'match' the Airbag control module with VAGcom? Bought a 2001 Passat 1.8T manual, found code:
01224 - Control Module Does Not Match Vehicle
35-00 - -
Full scan below. Note: bad ABS module removed and sent out for repair (that's why is does not show up in scan, and triggers other code).
Also need to look into crash sensor. Is that the one bolted to the floor under the front seats under carpet? Part number?
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5 (x64)
Data version: 20121222
Friday,17,May,2013,18:13:04:36008
Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 35 36 37 46 47 55 56 57 58 75 76 77
Mileage: 184990km/114947miles
[Code] ....
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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I'm not too familiar with these trucks, but I've been working on my buddies 1999 e350 ford van.
The other day we were going out kayaking, and the brakes locked up, we were able to drive it home, but it was obvious the brakes were holding the truck back. decided to check it out today, found one front and one rear caliper were sticking, the dual piston calipers only had one working, which I believed to be causing the pads to get pressed together crooked, and caused them to "lock up" or get stuck.
anyways, got the new calipers on and no more sticking, so I bled the brakes started in the front and went all the way to the back, did every caliper. brakes feel firm with the vehicle off, but instantly when the van is started, the pedal goes to the floor. it still stops okay, but the pedal feel is not nearly where it should be.
I got all of the air out of the system, but the abs light is on, and has been for a while. I'm wondering if there is something else that needs to be bled in the abs? someone was telling me about bleeding the abs motor?
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I am having a strange issue with this vehicle that the dealership can't figure out but it doesn't surprise since here they are a bunch of idiots there anyways....well here it goes....when i start the vehicle there is a fairly loud "buzzing" noise coming from the drl module mounted on the front right side fender, the module feels like the relay inside is clicking extremely fast but not actually staying on, the drl's do not come on however the high beam indicator on the dash is illuminated. This will go away when i turn on the low beams, but i still have no high beams. There is a slight flicker within all the interior lights and headlights which leads me to believe there is a ground issue. I am unable to obtain any schematics for this part of the electrical system to be able to back probe and try to isolate the issue.... The vehicle seems to be fine as long as you turn the low beams on as soon as you start it other then the slight flicker in the lighting inside and out.....
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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Just got a 03 Used Santa Fe 2 weeks ago... 79,000 miles
1. Car "lurches" when at a complete stop w brake fully applied out of no where, so strong that I could easily rear end someone...
2. told dealership car was pulling to right, they said (after some teeth pulling) that a ball joint was replaced and Santa Fe's don't need alignments but in MA this is part of state inspection and considered a safety issue, needless to say, they say I have to pay for it...
3. Rear brakes seem to be hanging up...
All I want is the issues fix.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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My 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .
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A while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
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Friday morning I'm backing my 2011 Sonata Limited out of the garage and I always idle out but this time it started backing about 2 paces faster than idle speed. I hit the brakes and the pedal is on the floor..no brakes..I put it Drive and nothing no power. It didn't stop until I backed into the street curb, tires only no damage. When it hit the curb the brake pedal was back and Drive engaged as if nothing ever happened. Dropped it off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything but did open a case with Hyundai. Saturday doing a couple of backing the brakes were really spongy in reverse only. Will have that checked next week.
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After replacing the Front Rotors, calipers, and brake lines on my 2005 F150 Super Crew I have spongy brakes. I have also replaced the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes as well as a reputable repair shop has done the same. We are both at a loss as to what is wrong. The ABS light is on now after the replacement of these parts. This issue did not exist prior to changing these items. This was done to hopefully eliminate brake shudder that I have been experiencing for some time.
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I have a 2000 subaru legacy outback with about 160,000 miles.
The brakes are spongy. The reservoir is full. I took it to my regular mechanic, and he said the lines are good. He also said that if it were the master cylinder, after pumping the brakes up the peddle will sink to the floor, which it is not doing. So he's stumped.
What this would be? I've had several scares when I had to slam the brakes and wasn't sure the car would stop!
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