3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
View 4 RepliesEvery time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 RepliesMy 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
View 5 RepliesLooking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
View 6 RepliesThe A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
View 1 RepliesWhen driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 elantra shuts off while driving, while making a machine gun noise. If I try to start it, it will continue making the noise. I wait a few minutes after clicking and whirring robot noises stop and then it starts again. I've tried the cam position sensor, that worked for a few weeks but it's doing it again. Luckily it seems to only happen at slow speeds, before I pull into traffic.
View 5 Replies2007 Santa Fe 3.5 ... All of a sudden today the engine is vacillating and at idle shuts off. I have to keep my left foot on the brake pedal and the other on the right to keep it running without lurching forward. Does this sound like the throttle body?
View 1 RepliesWe've had this 2009 SE with the 3.3 since brand new, and have had the engine shut off/lose power out of the blue while driving 4 times over the years.
Each time we were able to pull off the road, shut off the ignition, then restart and have it work normally but the odd thing is that there hasn't been any codes or CEL on etc. so when we take it to the dealership they run diagnostics, and say "no codes, no problem" which is beyond frustrating.
How to get to the bottom of what's causing this?
Okay so I was driving home tonight going about 65 mph and all of a sudden I hit the gas and didn't feel anything... I looked at my rpms and they were at zero and the traction control light was blinking until finally an error popped up and it was back on... I had a check engine light on until I turned the car on and off....
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4 L Trition it shuts off while driving the steering wheel locks up when the truck shuts off I tried everything and it doesn't seem to help the problem. I changed the Iacv idle air control valve,I had a bad o2 sensor changed that, changed the crank sensor, cleaned the throttle body and changed the Tps sensor, got a new battery, changed the vacuum lines.i really don't know what else to do this truck is becoming a nightmare and is dangerous to drive I never know when it's going to shut off and when it does shut off sometimes it starts right up and other times it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesVolvo 940 1994 engine shuts off while driving?
View 1 RepliesSo, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
This morning I realized that there is a pattern to our Prius incidents. What Sarah experienced last week is the same that Amy experienced when she drove the car the first day we bought it.
1. January: Amy had driven 20 highway miles with no problem. Park for 10 minutes. Started and crossed to the median of a two-lane Highway. stopped to wait. When tried to go, nothing. Will not move. 10 minutes later tried again and car worked fine for a long time after that.
1a. The car still had the original auxiliary battery. tested and found 12V battery weak. Replaced original battery with Duracell AGM vented battery for Prius. Car drove fine for weeks after this.
2. May: car sat all day. Turn on. Drove across parking lot. then noticed red triangle, VSC, brake warning lights all on. Lots of codes including high-voltage battery, transmission, and others.
3. drove fine for one week. Then going 60 miles per hour up a slight hill. heard the internal combustion engine shutdown. Red triangle, VSC, brake warning light came on. Reduced or no power steering or brakes. Coasted off the road. After 10 minutes, it drove fine again.
3a. I cleaned high voltage battery cooling fan. Drove fine for 10 days.
4. June: Sarah drove 10 minutes. Drove to stop sign. Had to wait 5 minutes for lots of traffic. When ready to pull out, push the accelerator, internal combustion engine shut down and the car would not move. Would not go into reverse. Put in neutral, and enough slope to roll backward to side of road. waited a few minutes, and it drove fine again.
Codes WERE P0A0F engine failed to start and c1300 anti-lock brake. the same codes were thrown in the previous incident. Noticed engine coolant a little low and added more.
Sonata NF 2.0 ... 3 days ago, my care drove for - 4 minutes then engine shut down. Try to re-start the car but unavailable. I towed the car to workshop, they claimed high possibility is the fuel pump faulty.
Initially a check was done found fuel pump good (the technician disconnect the tube before the fuel injector assembly). They did a diagnose test found no error code registered.
Subsequently check on the fuel pump found no fuel come out before the fuel injector assembly (same as previous, disconnected before the assembly). Fuel pump was replaced. The engine can start running but will shut down after a while.
What is the possible cause and how to identify the root cause.
Was driving vehicle on highway at 75mph (speed limit) and the engine cut off. Just prior to this event, the vehicle was acting sluggish when stepping on the gas pedal. It took the vehicle from 5-10 seconds to respond to the acceleration requests.
Up until this point, the vehicle would work normally except for the transmission, (we've always had a problem with this from day 1), the GMC mechanics said they even took the trany apart and put it back together and couldn't find any issues. The transmission, when moving from a stopped position will not engage into gear for several seconds (4s - 7s) and when it does, the van pops into gear, jerking the van.
Vehicle: 2004 GMC Savana 1500 passenger Van
Mileage: 105,000
History: has had regular oil changes/tuneups
Primary Issue: Engine shut off while driving at 75mph
Secondary Issue: Tranny pops into gear after delay from stopped position (from park to drive or park to reverse)
My '99 Accord has developed a bad habit of shutting itself off while I'm driving. The first time this happened was a few months ago. The engine shut off and the key light flashed, as if I had turned the key to shut the car off. The radio and lights remained on. It started again without incident.
In the last month, it has been happening more frequently. I have noticed that sometimes I am unable to get the engine to turn over the first time. This is always followed by the car shutting off at some point while I'm driving.
Today, I was unable to start my car the first few times I tried and it shut off three or four times on my five minute trip home. The radio, lights for the A/C and windows all still had power. I had trouble restarting the car after each incident but did eventually get it going again.
What the problem is? Maybe it's just time for a new car...