Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 3.5L - Oil Pressure Indicator Light Flickering
Apr 16, 2012
For the past several months, I've noticed a gradually worsening flicker in my oil pressure indicator light. The light is off if I'm accelerating or downshifting for a pass or a hill climb, and it also goes off when I'm coasting or de-accelerating.
It's never steadily on, sometimes it's just barely visible, other times its flickering, fading, and brightening, but never at full brightness. It doesn't matter whether I'm at highway speed or at a slow speed, it's only a change in rpm that makes it go out.
I'm hoping, hoping, hoping that it's a problem with the pressure sensor, and not with the oil pump itself. Does the oil pump tend to fail gradually like that, it is it more indicative of a sensor problem? I'm hoping the latter, because replacing the pump is a major undertaking, one that I doubt I would do myself.
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At idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
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I've just bought a 2005 Santa Fe CRDI 2.0 Second hand, one owner from new, 60,000miles in 7 years. Just had it's 60,000 mile service. Until today perfect. Started car and no revs. but when I put in gear and moved the car, the revs kicked in and I was able to drive normally. Pulled over to side, into neutral, no revs FOR 1 2 or 3 SECONDS, then revved as normal, put in gear, and able to drive OK. Meanwhile, the MIL light came on and stayed on. I know what the hand book says but before I take it to our Hyundai dealer.
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I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
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The oil pressure light in my '02 Civic (~96K) has been randomly flickering on, for a second or less, at different speeds, road conditions, length of time in the car, etc. I have taken it to a good reputable shop and to a Honda service shop, and neither of them can pinpoint the problem. The good shop thought it might be a faulty sensor, but Honda shop guy said he's never replaced a sensor in his career. I've been driving ~400 miles per week since August. I had the alternator replaced at the good shop a couple months before the oil light started flickering. The Honda shop just said that the alternator was charging too high, but they didn't say if that was related to the oil light coming on. The battery was replaced in August, the oil level and pressure are good, and I got the oil changed two weeks ago when the good shop checked out the oil light problem. What is causing the oil light to come on??
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Recently I overhauled the engine put new rod bearing and had it bored and honed. As well as new pistons. when i first started it, it ran fairly good except for the tappets making noise but i thought this was normal. after 40 miles the tappets were still making noise and the oil light began flickering. I replaced the oil pan o rings with no luck. i also took the pump apart to check that and still nothing. I have a feeling a main bearing might have been put in the wrong spot. What should i do next to confirm this? what should i do from this point on?
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I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
More Information
2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
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This week my oil light came on, really was flickering on and off. I parked it and called the dealer, towed it just in case.
Dealer tested the oil pressure cold and hot, all is good. So they think it is the oil pressure switch, which they said was very unusual with a new vehicle (11,000km). They opened an inquiry with Hyundai, but they have not got back to the dealer yet. So they have ordered a new switch, but to replace it they said they have to remove some manifolds and stuff to get at it, so they have ordered all the caskets etc....
It only seem to flicker when at operating temperature. I really don't like to see them pull manifolds etc... on a new engine, but I need to be sure I can rely on the indicator. Right now the dealer said I have no problems driving the vehicle till the parts come in.
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Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
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A few days ago, the light for the Tire pressure monitor lit up in the dash. I got the car with nitrogen in the tires so I'm assuming that i have to take this back to the dealer to check the tire pressure and reset the indicator in the dash? How sensitive is this tire pressure monitor?
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So during my lunch break (I work 3rd shift, so "lunch" was at 4:00AM) I started my car only to notice that the tire pressure indicator light pop on. I got out and checked all of my tires and they all looked good.
However, it's the coldest it's been since I've gotten the car (~45 degrees). This light come on during cold weather? Makes sense that the air in the tires is contracting due to the cold weather, but it also seems like the air in the tires should expand as the car is driven, thus eliminating the pressure light, but it didn't.
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Light came on a few days ago and I just inflated them to spec. 3 were around 30psi while one was down to 29. Indicator is still on when I start up the car. Did a search and one mentioned that driving approx 15mi it will turn off. Others say a button in the glove box will reset it. I looked and do not see one. Car is 09 passat. Hoping it shuts off on my drive to work ~20mi. If not how do is reset? I read owners manual and did not see anything about pushing a reset button or anything.
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I was on my way to celebrating my 10 year anniversary this weekend, when the oil pressure light began to blink, the warning buzzer sounded, and the dreaded STOP indicator lit up on the dash. I pulled off of the highway immediately, luckily I was already near an exit, and turned off the car. I called my dealer and told them what had happened. They advised not driving the vehicle, so I had it towed to a local mechanic. We left the car at the mechanic, and rented a car in order to proceed with the anniversary celebration.
I was debating about how to handle the car situation. Should I pay to have the car towed to the dealership to investigate, or attempt to drive the vehicle 45 miles home. I decided to change and inspect the oil, fill with Castrol Syntec 5w-40, start the car and idle for a few minutes and check for any indicators. Everything looked ok. The oil that I drained out looked fine, as it hadn't been that long since the last oil change. No warning indicators. So I decided that I would head home, and if any warning lights came on, I was prepared to call and have it towed to the dealership. We made it home fine, without incident. No warning lights, no odd engine noises, no leaks, no smoke, everything normal.
A week ago, I had the latest recall handled. When I picked up the car from the dealership, I noticed that the AC wasn't as cold as normal. If you can call the normal condition "cold". I didn't think much of it until we started out for this vacation. But now that the AC isn't working, and I got the oil pressure warning "out of the blue" I am having some worries.
Questions:What should I do with the car now? Take the car to the dealership to check out the indicator light? Have them check for oil sludge? I am the second owner. The first owner had it on lease, and I think I have most of the oil change records.
It sounds like others are having concerns about the recent ECU flash. Could the new flash have changed the pressure at which the oil pressure indicator comes on in order to avoid further oil sluge/engine replacement issues? Did VW disable AC all together? What others may have found out about the recent ECU flash.
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On my 2002 Santa Fe, the gas gauge moves slowly after filling up. It takes about a minute or two for the gauge to reach full. I'm not sure if this is normal or not but the more troubleshooting I do I'm starting to think it is. Need to confirm this?
Also, the low fuel indicator never comes on. I disconnected the connector from the fuel pump and jumpered pin 1 to pin 5 and the light did come on (after turning the key on). I replaced the sending unit (driver side only) but the light still doesn't come on. The only other thing I could think of was dirty contacts so I cleaned them really good. Still no light. What else I can try?
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the indicator light is on because of the cold morning. All four tires are a few pounds low and I correct.
Back inside the vehicle, the indicator is still on! I get out to check the spare but, cannot because the valve stem is on top! And, my shirt is all dirty!
At home, I lower the spare and check/add air. Raise spare, put tools away. Now I know how to lower the spare.
Our basic Chevy vans at work let you know tire pressure in each of their four tires.
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I just bought a 2006 gx that has been lifted about 3" with old man emo springs. The ride height adjustment was removed and the adjustable shocks replaced with a larger non adjustable model.
The rims and tires were also replaced. I think the rims are 21" and the tires 33". The running boards were also removed and the wheel wells opened up a little.
The tire pressure indicator light is on all the time as the new rims and rubber don't link up to the sensor. This I can live with.
I tried it out today on a dirt road (Ophir Pass, Colorado) It worked great but about 200 yards in the check engine, and all three ride/safety system warning lights came on. (stability and slip sensors).
The car performed flawlessly, but the lights remained on even after I got to pavement. I did stop and check, oil, temp, coolant, etc when they came on and all seem to be fine.
I suspect it has something to do with either the oversized tires or the disconnected shock and height systems. How to get the lights to turn off?
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2006 Prius, 134K miles. All tire pressures perfect but pressure indicator light started flashing about a minute then stays on. Happens each time car starts. There have been no weather temperature fluctuations. Attempted indicator reset by pushing “ON” once without pedal push and then pushing and holding pressure reset button under dash for a minute. Nothing happens. Indicator does not come on or flash when pushing the reset button while in “On” mode. Tires have not been changed or rotated since last year.
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2009 LE. I found that the indicators for Low engine oil pressure warning, Charging system warning, and Malfunction/Check Engine are on when the engine switch at "On" and goes off after engine is started. Is this normal or something is wrong with the car?
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My Tire pressure indicator light starts FLASHING after driving for 15-30 minutes. It does not stay on but continues to flash every 3 seconds. I stop to check tire pressure and my tires are fine. After a couple weeks of this, I took it to the Subaru Service who checked the tire pressure indicators and it said all 4 of them were bad. They reset them versus replacing them and 20 minutes after I left the subaru service center, the flashing started again.
Subaru says that it is unusual for all 4 to be back at the same exact time and recalibrating them should have fixed it. Now they would like to replace each of them for about $150 parts&labor EACH. That seems crazy. Is there something else wrong? Something else they can fix? Is this a legitimate repair? My subaru is the Limited LL Bean version, 6 cylinder, has 60K miles on it and is in top condition. Had new tires put on 10,000 miles ago.
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I just bought a 2008 Highlander. I'm thrilled with the quality of the vehicle so far. This model has a tire pressure monitor system which I can't seem to reset. I've set the pressure in all tires at 34psi and 44 for the spare, and the indicator light will not go out. I press the reset button and the indicator light never blinks to indicate that a reset is in progress.
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I bought a new IS 250 F-sport 2 weeks ago and the tire indicator drives me crazy. The low tire pressure light on twice in a week. I added up to 36pis (Recommended Pressure) and all tires went down after a few days. I went back to Lexus today for tire pressure. Every tire is okay but tire pressure is low only. Btw, my gas indicator did not rise up after I filled gas. The indicator started to rise up after I drove about 2 miles. Is that normal for a new car?
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