Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2007 - When Tap The Brakes Lights Go Dim Then Come Back On
May 1, 2016
I have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
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Front and back brakes heating up and locking on intermittently brake pedal feels normal this has happened 3 times over the last 500 km of driving pedal not sticking down break fluid ok no swelled lines today noticed front left and rear right rotors were hotter than front right and rear left once vehicle sits they release and all is good no abs lights or any other warning lights on.
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For some reason my back brake lights on my 2006 santa fe are all goofy. The two in the rear window work fine. The turn signals work fine but the right and left brake lights don't work. I replaced the10 am fuses and the lamps. It did not work at all. I don't understand how the top lights would work but the right / left wont. I even tried the flashers and the brake lights are not on either. I don't see a fuse in the box in the engine compartment labeled for rear brakes, so I am at a loss.
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2004 Santa Fe, after starting car the brakes make a grinding noise, the nthe ABS, ESC and 4 wheel drive light come on. After the initial grinding the noise stops and the brakes work fine. Just the lights stay on.
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My 2011 santa fe radio turn off by it self and come back on when ever he want. It start this 2 weeks ago, some day everything work fine, and other days is doing this. What the problem is? Its the basic radio not the infinity.
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Strange problem. I've cleaned the reservoir as best I could but it continues to back up. I can find replacement parts everywhere for any amount of money. However, the reservoir is labeled 2001 to 2006. Mine is 2006 and I believe it's a GLS (don't know for sure). OK so far, however when I put my Santa Fe in and note that it has a 3.5 V6, all of them say that it is not compatible with this car! It looks like the one that is in there, but nowhere can I find a reservoir for the 3.5! Am I missing something really silly and stupid?
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So this happens fairly regularly. only during part throttle, cruising, the acceleration and rpm will dip and fall for a second, then comes back. if i let off the gas when it happens and get back on it, it comes back sooner. about a year ago i got TPS CEL, changed the APS but it didn't fix anything.
Weird thing is, when using cruise i don't see it. at least it's not nearly as noticeable. I had some idle and misfire issues recently and found a broken coil the culprit. changed that out and fixed those issues.
What would cause this issue when using the pedal but not the cruise? I think it has something to do with the accelerator pedal sensor...i do notice the throttle cable going to the APS has a small nut on it and it looks like it can be adjusted, would that cause this issue? research says TPS doesn't fail....
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I have a metal sounding rattle coming from the back of the vehicle. It sounds like it is coming from the hatch area. I removed all loose things (jack) and the noise is still there.
I checked the license plate and put foam behind it, I wrapped the latch with a layer of tape. The noise seems a bit better but still there when on rough roads.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS. I took both LCA's out and replaced the bushings and the ball joints with Hyundai original parts.
I installed the bushing ends of the LCA, put the bolts thru both bushings, and then tried to insert the ball joint into the knuckle. No go! It goes in about a 1/4 inch.
How do you get the ball joint end to go all the way up, inside the knuckle? I am thinking of pounding the heck out of it till it goes in, but not sure.
I've disconnected the outer tie rods, and the links to allow for some play in the knuckle, I just don't know what I am doing wrong.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe with 78,000 miles.
It's recently developed an issue where it has cut off on two different occasions within the past 2 weeks.
My wife said both times happened as she was slowing down and it felt like she was losing power. The vehicle cut off and then cranked right back up.
I've taken it to my personal mechanic as well as the dealership for diagnostic tests and neither were able to replicate the issue or find the problem.
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Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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As I'm driving my 2007 Santa Fe with the A/C turned on, it will randomly turn off. I'll try to push the button to turn it back on and it won't turn back on, I wait try it again and eventually it turns back on. There are times when I'm driving without the A/C on and it kicks on by itself. After about 3months of this weird on and off, my A/C now will NOT turn on. The other day my friend gave the glove compartment a kick and it miraculously turned on. There was even an instance where I was driving over bumps in the street and my A/C finally kicked on and even when I've hit the brake hard it's turned on. I want to get this fixed but do not have the cash right now to take it to a mechanic or the dealership. Would this have something to do with the compressor? Is it electronic?
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I bought a 2011 Santa Fe in September and now that winter has set in up here, I find that when approaching a stop sign and there is black ice, I noticed that when you press on the brakes, it shudders. Almost jumps if you know what I mean. I've never had this experience and scared the crap out of me the first time. Is it normal? The only time it does this is when the wheels lock and slide on the ice. The brakes? I think then shudder. This is the first Hyundai I've ever owned and love it so far.
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Its a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
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My 2002 Santa Fe Back Hatch Door will not open. I have removed the inside panel & all the linkage seems to work OK. But the main latch will not let go & I cannot see where to trip it. How I can get it opened, just can't see where to trip it but believe it can be done from inside.
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2005 Santa Fe - 3.5L w/ Auto a/c controls (it matters for price on the resistor. boo!)
I find myself having a really hard time sliding the motor back in. It was difficult to pull out before and now it's nearly impossible to put back in.
The Fan wheel measures 5 3/4"
I believe the issue has to do with prefab installation and a very large wheel causing this to be too difficult to push in at an angle.
I see different dimensions for fan wheels and I'm thinking that may be the key.
I already have to replace the blower motor.
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My rear brakes keep wearing out extremely prematurely (2,000-7,000 mile intervals) and have been for 60,000+ miles. (No joke my mechanic has warrantied the rotors and pads over and over literally like 10 times) its the insides pads of the back that wear down while the outsides and front are fine...is the proportioning valve causing this problem or is it something else? We've changed the calipers and brake hosed
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2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
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My 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
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I was noticing that the shade for the sunroof does not slide back 100%. It seems like they could have made it go back another inch or 2.
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My power seat will not move to the rear, only forward. Looking for a wiring diagram that would show how I can use jumpers to move it back?
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