Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 Won't Crank For 10 Minutes Or So When Stopped The Car
Nov 14, 2014
This had occurred twice thus far in the past 6 months.
2004 Santa Fe 3.8L Automatic:
I had stopped the car at a store several months back, got back in the car after about an hour and I go to turn the key and the motor will not crank at all. Battery was fine, lights all worked, etc. After about ten minutes of fiddling with the shift it finally cranked and started without issue. Tonight I had stopped, topped off the tank (mistake I am sure) and tried to leave the gas station, again, no crank (and I forgot my cell phone at home!).
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with the shifter thinking a lock switch issue it again finally cranked over and started right up! Sounds like a couple of isolated incidents, however what may be the causes?
The first time I don't recall if I had gotten fuel or not. I did travel a ways afterward if I indeed had. This time I could not get it to crank right at the pumps.
Could this indeed be the purge valve issue I have heard about on these causing it not to even crank?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe v6 3.5 L engine. sometimes when I go to crank it I get nothing but clicks. We've tested the battery, starter and alternator and all 3 are fine. We replaced the solenoid but it still isn't working. My husband was able to get it started one time by beating on something (starter) under the car. This has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Now it's not starting at all.
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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Low beams don't work. The fuses are fine (under the dash, and in the engine compartment) and the bulbs look good. The fact that both went out at the same time has me wondering. One post on this forum for something not related mentioned a headlight relay behind the fuse panel?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe GLS that the cruise control just stopped working. It will not turn on when I press the ON button. Could it be a blown fuse? I recently had a new AC compressor installed. Could it be related to that? Maybe something didn't get plugged back in?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
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I own a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe with 40k miles on it. I drove it to Vegas about 2 hours ago and noticed that about every 6 minutes the headlight would kind of flicker. It was pretty constant the whole trip. There are no other lights that flicker, it's only the headlights. Is this a known problem?
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I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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My power steering went out a few months ago. No warning, whining, or hiccups. Just stopped working. Installed a new pump today, and it worked great for about five minutes. Bled it out, put fluid in, etc. Took off on a test drive and a mile up the road I went to turn into a street and power steering was gone.
Fluid is still full, belt is still there, no visible leaks. 2004 3.5L V6.
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I remove the battery of my Santa Fe 2005, cleaned cable, added grease, placed a brand new battery, reconnected the cables. But, when I tried to start nothing happens. The Radio, lamps, etc.. are working, so the car is powered, but no cranking, nothing.... I tried to reset ECU by disconnecting the battery cables for a while to empty the condensator. But it does not work. I also tried to connect the batteries NEG and POS poles together to reset the ECU but no success... I need my car to work....
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I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
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2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
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I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now In Cold Temps -20 Celsius Or Colder... dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms....
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I bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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I have an 02 AWD 160k miles with a 2.7l V6. The car was driving fine then the transmission just stopped, no noise, no bucking just stopped as if it were shifted to neutral. Fluid is good, no codes. when the car is started and put into gear the RPM's drop as if its going to move but nothing.
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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Santa Fe - 2004 - 2.7 liter automatic fwd.
I am experiencing an occasional jerking or hesitation while sitting stopped at lights and it also has a tendency to do the same as I begin to move from a stop at times. It almost seems like the transmission slipping or something but likely more engine related I think as I am at a stop. I have felt this slightly while at speed as well but not that often, at least not yet. It also seems more noticeable as the weather get warmer as was very noticeable late last summer and did not present itself again until spring.
Also-I have read that some threads re stalling issues(not exactly what I have) that can be related to the crankshaft position sensor and also read somewhere a while ago about an issue re the ecm needing reprogramming but have not found that recently.
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